When seating pellet by hand the skirt does not enter barrel which increases start pressure. Pressing pellet with a ball tipped tool can put entire pellet into bore which lessens start pressure and is probably more consistent. The fwb65 doesn’t seem to have any taper or lead into the barrel so edge of skirt sits on edge of opening. How are you supposed to load pistol?
Pellet Seating FWB65
- Thread starter O2bmark
- Start date
Modified old brass archery sights, or any brass pieces. You can use the flat nut as a stop against breech seal. You can play with depth of seating and see what works best for each gun, and pellet skirt thickness.
You get the idea.
Yes a ball point pen is fine. The only question is does it consistently seat to same depth, and is that depth stop optimal. Only testing different depths over a chrony, and shooting groups can tell you.
Your particular situation. You definitely want that skirt seated fully. No over obturation or clipping when closing bolt or breech. I'm talking single load in general.
If you have a borescope you can look at lead in. I know barrels with a proper lead in still feel like there's a jump with Wadcutters.
Seat one, push back out with cleaning rod, and inspect.
Good luck!
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Have you tried out different makes of pellets? All pellets have skirts larger in diameter than their head, and their is a lot of variation between brands and models of pellets. Some fit as you describe (RWS being particularly notorious for large skirt diameter), but others can be hand-seated flush with no issues.
I've been using JSB's in my 65 - the skirts are slightly smaller, and made of thin, soft lead. They hand-seat easily, shoot very accurately, and feel noticeably more smooth and "recoilless" in action, too.
I've been using JSB's in my 65 - the skirts are slightly smaller, and made of thin, soft lead. They hand-seat easily, shoot very accurately, and feel noticeably more smooth and "recoilless" in action, too.
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Breech, Then finger tight, and lastly pressed in with tool until pellet "clicked" into place. As you can see there is only a very small tapered area and then the rifling. The way the pistol is made I have to use a right angle tool since very little space between breech and retracted piston. I cannot find my old beeman tool which looked like a ball on the end of an antenna. I believe the resistance is from the skirt engaging rifling and the "click" is the tool hitting breech. As picture shows the seated pellet still has some skirt in the tiny tapered part of the breech. To seat pellet fully into rifling I would need a right angle version of JamesD's tools. My pellets are marked and measure 4.50mm on the head with larger skirt. When I insert the head of the pellet into the muzzle of the pistol it seems to lightly engage the rifling.
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