Hello all! Im kinda new to the group. I sure do appreciate the huge amount of knowledge there is here! My question is really simple. And first off, I do not mean any harm/ disrespect to Hector Medina in any way at all. I recently purchased a Gamo Swarm Magnum in .22 cal. For pests at my home. Almost immediately dealt with scope issues. So I purchased the zero recoil scope mount (the chinese version). I noticed the amount of play in the rails, and read most all threads on "pinning" the rails with grub screws. So...I started the modification of mine. Drilled, and tapped out corners for 4mm teflon grub screws. Does this resemble in any way the way Hector has done his?
Play in the Zero Recoil Scope Mount
- Thread starter Briar
- Start date
@Briar - Hello and welcome to AGN! Lots of smart people here, questions are better off in the General section.
The Gamo Swarm is a pretty powerful rifle, I suggest a one piece mount. They are much simpler than zero recoil sorcery. Keep it simple. Pyramid has a good selection. Make sure you clean the dovetail rail and the mount first with the highest level of alcohol available to remove all grease. Check your rifle and mount screws often. Use a plumb line to mount your scope and Bob's your uncle.
www.pyramydair.com
The Gamo Swarm is a pretty powerful rifle, I suggest a one piece mount. They are much simpler than zero recoil sorcery. Keep it simple. Pyramid has a good selection. Make sure you clean the dovetail rail and the mount first with the highest level of alcohol available to remove all grease. Check your rifle and mount screws often. Use a plumb line to mount your scope and Bob's your uncle.
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I did something similar but I didn't drill and tap from the sides as that would cause a binding load. I just drilled and tapped from the top and has worked very well. I've used some pretty cheap scopes on my Diana 48 with a vortex spring kit and there was no problem. Just make sure nothing protrudes above the base of the ZR mount.
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I am a bit confused. Not trying to say one way is better than another...just thinking out loud.
But if the holes where the rods go thru are too large or not round but oval on the sides...wouldn't you still have some side play if your set screws are on top?
Would a set screw angled at 45 degree be more appropriate if you just want to drill and tap one hole?
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My thought was...an ever so slight contact on both planes would eliminate both up and down, and side to side play. I recently bought 2 other ZR Mounts of the same brand for other guns I have. One is very snug. Little play at all. And the other has considerable play. Soo...not sure if its in engineering? Or something I have done while tightening up, and putting Loctite on other areas that need to be locked down on the mount.
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It's a higher power spring and sleeve to reduce spring vibration. It basically just gives the rifle more power which equals more recoil which equals harder on a scope.
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Quality control is the answer. The bore that the rods slide through are just a little bit bigger on one over the other or the rod diameter is different between the two. The reason I don't drill from the side is the rods need to stay perfectly parallel IMHO to allow the mount to move freely forward and backwards.
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