POI shift

[nervoustrig]

Got it. I cant find any in town. Is it necessary?

Necessary? Well, if you plan to insert a cleaning rod into the muzzle and perform any sort of back-and-forth scrubbing action, it's a really good idea.

I mean if you're planning to do it just once and are supremely careful not to let the rod drag across the lands at the muzzle, maybe not so bad. Just bear in mind it's not the rod itself that is the concern, rather it is any microscopic grit that may have embedded itself into the rod. In that respect, coated rods and carbon fiber rods are more susceptible than a hard steel rod.

If in doubt, remove the barrel and clean from the breech end.

 

[wolfmangreg]

What @nervoustrig said!

Any place near you selling muzzleloading equipment? Usually where I've seen them in the past. Pretty sure I have a spare- will check tonight & send to you if you'd like.

Could probably drill a small chunk of wood to accommodate your cleaning rod, then whittle to a similar shape as the one pictured.

 

[Emu]

The distance and angle of your eye in regard of the scope NEEDS to be always the same.

Vertical reticle NEEDS to be 90 degrees in regard of the rail of the scope. You need to check that with a pulmb at 70 yards.

It is better to learn to hold the rifle adequately and do not think that if you rest it with a bipod and a rear bag, the rifle will remain still at the shot.

Once you hold the rifle adequately: dully rested in your arm and firmly hold with your fore hand, then you need to learn to pull the trigger with out getting out of the target.

First two shots after refilling a regulated rifle will not hit in exact target.

After going below regulated preassure the rifle will change POI.

Some defective scopes (no matter how expensive they are) do not keep the zero. In these cases you will waste a lot of ammo and never will get satisfied.

Before moving clicks, confirm the repetitive pattern at shooting.

 

[slayer]

A.K.A. "muzzle guard" - centers the cleaning rod & protects the barrel crown

View attachment 355393

Yes exact;y!

 

[Castin’Catchin’ 26]

Rod with brass brush, use a crown guide or remove the barrel and clean from the breech, bore snake with embedded brass bristles. Patches and felt are not effective. Lead remover designed for lead pistol rounds is the only solvent worth using (Shooter's Choice) .

Will one of these work ok? I can't find any barrel crowns

 

[Airgun-hobbyist]

@Castin’Catchin’ 26 those crown guards are usually manufactured and placed on the high-end and more expensive fiberglass and ball bearing handled cleaning rods.

 

[slayer]

Cleaning is a subject that seems to stress people out; especially cleaning from the muzzle. Yes, the crown is important, maybe the most important to barrel performance but it's not made of glass.

Reasonable care is required but that's it. The barrel steel used is 4140 alloy that is heat treated and stress relieved to a hardness of Rockwell C 22-28. Not only do you have a high relative hardness, the hammer forging process will add additional surface hardness. A bronze brush run from either direction will have zero effect on the metallurgy.

If you don't have a crown protector, just use care not to bang the transition between the brush and rod into the crown. Align carefully and go slow during entry and you will be fine. Rod and bronze brush with lead solvent is the most effective.