Poll: Has your FX impact leaked often?

[Glem.Chally]

Well going a lilte offtopic here, but when I dipped the gun in water, I thought it was enough to keep it indoors, in room temperature to dry it. But the next day, the rust was alredy there, even the water was gone. Hammer, hammer spring, and trigger mechanism, was all rusted. The gun would hardly fire, because of the trigger mechanism hanging up. Tried first to spray some ballistol in the internals, to wash it out, but that did not work well. A mixture of rust and ballistol just made a thick gunk instead. I would not do it again, because of the work involved cleaning it up.

Doesn't take much to blow it out, I even have an electric computer duster that would dry it out fast. Lesson learned.

 

[Bigragu]

I completely changed my methods of detecting leaks. I’ve used the CRC foam spray that Ernest uses and as a pro it’s easy to apply in tight areas but very slow leaks like air seeping past the threads of a gage, that stuff doesn’t work well for me. I can’t tell by the bubbles already in the foam if it’s from the application of the foam or from the actual leak. If it’s a strong leak that stuff throws out big bubbles, but for one of those leaks where your gun goes down 10 bar in a week and a half, it doesn’t work to well.

The dish soap and water in a small sprayer, same thing. Are the bubbles from the initial spray application or from that slow leak? Then of course there’s the water issue making its way into areas you didn’t intend the water to get into, and yes it will rust parts overnight.

I’ve done the dunk in water system and that will show a leak everytime, but like I mentioned earlier you must be ok with the fact that you will have to completely tear the rifle down and dry parts and replace the contaminated lubricants within the gun.
About the only item from a gun that I still dunk in water is just the air bottle all by itself. Water can’t get into the bottle because of the air pressure but if one(or all)of the three o rings within the bottles valve is compromised, it’ll show quickly in a water dunk.

My new method today has worked every time, as it takes on the best features of the methods described above but does not leave me with a saturated gun, and clean up is very easy and fast. Here’s what I use today-
From your local Home Depot or Lowe’s-

The applicator, which is the key tool here-

Just a small drop applied with a nose dropper bulb, as seen here-

This was on an HW44 that wouldn’t hold air, very slow leak. I had a hunch, and found it instantly with this method-

Clean up was easy, no over spray or water running into other areas of the gun, and quick results.

The most stubborn leak I’ve found using this dropper method with, was the Dowty seal to bottle leak on an impact. When this leak detection solution worked its way into that very slim seam, with the use of a flashlight I could see a very very tiny leak. This was the type of leak that after a full gun fill of 250 bar, the pressure would leak down to 225 bar which took almost 8 days, then the leak would stop. Fill again to 250 and in 8 days the needle stops at 225 bar and never goes down anymore. Those are tough leaks to find, but this method found it

 

[tor47]

I completely changed my methods of detecting leaks. I’ve used the CRC foam spray that Ernest uses and as a pro it’s easy to apply in tight areas but very slow leaks like air seeping past the threads of a gage, that stuff doesn’t work well for me. I can’t tell by the bubbles already in the foam if it’s from the application of the foam or from the actual leak. If it’s a strong leak that stuff throws out big bubbles, but for one of those leaks where your gun goes down 10 bar in a week and a half, it doesn’t work to well.

The dish soap and water in a small sprayer, same thing. Are the bubbles from the initial spray application or from that slow leak? Then of course there’s the water issue making its way into areas you didn’t intend the water to get into, and yes it will rust parts overnight.

I’ve done the dunk in water system and that will show a leak everytime, but like I mentioned earlier you must be ok with the fact that you will have to completely tear the rifle down and dry parts and replace the contaminated lubricants within the gun.
About the only item from a gun that I still dunk in water is just the air bottle all by itself. Water can’t get into the bottle because of the air pressure but if one(or all)of the three o rings within the bottles valve is compromised, it’ll show quickly in a water dunk.

My new method today has worked every time, as it takes on the best features of the methods described above but does not leave me with a saturated gun, and clean up is very easy and fast. Here’s what I use today-
From your local Home Depot or Lowe’s-
View attachment 317650

The applicator, which is the key tool here-
View attachment 317652
Just a small drop applied with a nose dropper bulb, as seen here-
View attachment 317653

This was on an HW44 that wouldn’t hold air, very slow leak. I had a hunch, and found it instantly with this method-
View attachment 317654

Clean up was easy, no over spray or water running into other areas of the gun, and quick results.

The most stubborn leak I’ve found using this dropper method with, was the Dowty seal to bottle leak on an impact. When this leak detection solution worked its way into that very slim seam, with the use of a flashlight I could see a very very tiny leak. This was the type of leak that after a full gun fill of 250 bar, the pressure would leak down to 225 bar which took almost 8 days, then the leak would stop. Fill again to 250 and in 8 days the needle stops at 225 bar and never goes down anymore. Those are tough leaks to find, but this method found it

Good advise

 

[177er]

Well going a lilte offtopic here, but when I dipped the gun in water, I thought it was enough to keep it indoors, in room temperature to dry it. But the next day, the rust was alredy there, even the water was gone. Hammer, hammer spring, and trigger mechanism, was all rusted. The gun would hardly fire, because of the trigger mechanism hanging up. Tried first to spray some ballistol in the internals, to wash it out, but that did not work well. A mixture of rust and ballistol just made a thick gunk instead. I would not do it again, because of the work involved cleaning it up.

Thanks for the share, I would say dunking would be a last resort, (but slow leaks are especially difficult to find).

Doesn't take much to blow it out, I even have an electric computer duster that would dry it out fast. Lesson learned.

I completely changed my methods of detecting leaks. I’ve used the CRC foam spray that Ernest uses and as a pro it’s easy to apply in tight areas but very slow leaks like air seeping past the threads of a gage, that stuff doesn’t work well for me. I can’t tell by the bubbles already in the foam if it’s from the application of the foam or from the actual leak. If it’s a strong leak that stuff throws out big bubbles, but for one of those leaks where your gun goes down 10 bar in a week and a half, it doesn’t work to well.


The most stubborn leak I’ve found using this dropper method with, was the Dowty seal to bottle leak on an impact. When this leak detection solution worked its way into that very slim seam, with the use of a flashlight I could see a very very tiny leak. This was the type of leak that after a full gun fill of 250 bar, the pressure would leak down to 225 bar which took almost 8 days, then the leak would stop. Fill again to 250 and in 8 days the needle stops at 225 bar and never goes down anymore. Those are tough leaks to find, but this method found it

Thanks for the share, I'll look into getting a leak detection spray/liquid. Haven't had to yet, but I've had one of my other PCP's leak (it was an easy O ring fix).

 

[Cloudrider]

5 Impacts, all have been modified never experienced a leak!