PP800 (and posible 700/750 and Chaser) dissasemble tool?

[Savagefox]

Well, that sucks. My pp800 came back from the manufacturer and... it leaks again.

Problem is in the exhaust valve, at the start it holds the pressure, but when you shoot, it looses air continually untill its empty in a few hours, so can't really take it out to hunt or anything.

I think the manufacturer presurize it, check that the gun hold air and just send it back without testing a poop, or maybe they didn't even try.

Ok... I supose I must repair it myself, I will never buy from the brand again... so... how the f*** extract the valve piece? I can just unscrew the front part of the cylinder, but can't reach the back piece from any side... did I need a special tool? Can I 3d print it? Google does not seem to know it, or I cant figure out how to search it.

 

[SilentSquirrel]

following

 

[bluemoon_wulf]

Hi. I have a .25 pp800 so not sure how different it is.

No special tool was needed to disassemble.

To take the valve out, open both ends of air tube. (Empty first of course). Gauge can just be unscrewed. Remove any retaining screws. Using a dowel or maybe pvc pipe, I tapped from the hammer end of air tube, and gently forced the valve out the front, the pressure gauge side.

After modding it I reversed the process. Since you are pushing it carefully, should try to line up holes/Port before pushing into tube. It has a protuberance in the tube so valve will not go past it's home position. (At least in mine)

Hope this helps.

(By the way, my first try for you would be to put some silicon oil in air. Hopefully it unsticks whatever is wrong.)

 

[be4meliz]

Borrowed this from Long_Gun_Dallas(thanks again)

De-gas by unscrewing monometer with wrench. Pull bottom grip screw, rear grip screw. Trigger guard comes off with. Watch trigger pins, they will fall out. Unscrew hammer end cap bolt and remove guide/spring. Remove magazine or shot tray to reveil receiver bolt. Watch transfer port orings. Remove transfer port. Remove valve body retainer bolt forward of trigger blade. Remove hammer clocking bolt from top. Pull trigger to release hammer out the back. Remove air tube end cap end gauge, use dowel to push valve body out the front of the air tube. 

 No special tools needed other than small phillips & correct(metric) allen + dowel rod to push out valve(go easy as you get to threads @ fill port end.

 

[Long_Gun_Dallas]

These guns are about as simple as it gets. I've got 2 and only had 1 leak at the fill cap oring. Just needed the screw tightened that holds the oring

 

[Savagefox]

Borrowed this from Long_Gun_Dallas(thanks again)

De-gas by unscrewing monometer with wrench. Pull bottom grip screw, rear grip screw. Trigger guard comes off with. Watch trigger pins, they will fall out. Unscrew hammer end cap bolt and remove guide/spring. Remove magazine or shot tray to reveil receiver bolt. Watch transfer port orings. Remove transfer port. Remove valve body retainer bolt forward of trigger blade. Remove hammer clocking bolt from top. Pull trigger to release hammer out the back. Remove air tube end cap end gauge, use dowel to push valve body out the front of the air tube. 

 No special tools needed other than small phillips & correct(metric) allen + dowel rod to push out valve(go easy as you get to threads @ fill port end.

Thank you, I finally realise that I just need brute force to push the valve cilinder out.



I feel that I'm learning a lot about airguns... not to my pleasure.

Valve disasembled, I found little debris around the white plastic thingy, so I hope that's all the problem.

I supose that the interior of air cilinder is full of little poop, and AFTER the first shots, that little poop stuck in the valve allowing air flow over time... I hope the white thingy is not scratched or anything.. maybe I should put a coat of... what product?

Internal of the valve piece with a circle of rusty debris.. in a new gun.. great Artemis.

 

[Long_Gun_Dallas]

Odd to find debris in a new gun. Definitely doe ls not speak well to the brand. Valve seat surface doesn't have to be perfect to seal. Easiest thing would be to put the valve stem in a dremel and spin it. Rub the sealing face just a little with some fine sandpaper while it's being spun. (if it looks rough or uneven) check the air tube for rust. I'd send it back if it's rusted