N/A Pre-WWII Diana 48E

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Motorman

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Feb 11, 2019
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Fenton, Missouri, United States
I recently bought a pre-WWII Diana 48E. This is a .177 spring piston under lever gun, not a side lever like the post WWII model 48 / 52. The 48E is apparently a close copy of the BSA Standard air rifle from the early 1900’s. Mine appears to be produced about 1930. I’d like to disassembly, clean, lubricate, and reassemble it. However, I have no FPS performance information. Does anyone have ANY information about this rifle? Disassembly instructions?

Motorman
Eastern Missouri
 
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For any prewar BSA all you do is remove the trigger guard and then push the barrel against a piece of carpet as you unscrew the trigger block. Fairly low amount of preload They normally run under 12 ft lb for the best .22's. so the 48 is probably similar. Or less if it's a 177.
I've worked on many vintage rifles. Especially 1906-1930's BSA.

I had to edit my reply.................. I was thinking of a model 58.
First, make sure your screwdrivers fit the screws well! Don't bugger the screws.
Strip it like you would a BSA. Check the leather seal for a loose fixing screw. And anything that might be embedded in the seal. No telling what might have been inserted into the tap and fell through the transfer port. The seal may be in good condition. If it's good do not remove it from the piston. If you do it should be replaced in the exact same orientation. If it gets rotated it might not seal again. If the seal needs replaced a BSA seal from UK might fit. They should be fitted to the bore if you can. I have used springs from BSA Airsporter/Mercury and HW50 springs in the BSA's. Cut them down so there isn't too much preload to reassemble without excessive effort.
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KWK said:
For any prewar BSA all you do is remove the trigger guard and then push the barrel against a piece of carpet as you unscrew the trigger block. Fairly low amount of preload They normally run under 12 ft lb for the best .22's. so the 48 is probably similar. Or less if it's a 177.
I've worked on many vintage rifles. Especially 1906-1930's BSA.

I had to edit my reply.................. I was thinking of a model 58.
First, make sure your screwdrivers fit the screws well! Don't bugger the screws.
Strip it like you would a BSA. Check the leather seal for a loose fixing screw. And anything that might be embedded in the seal. No telling what might have been inserted into the tap and fell through the transfer port. The seal may be in good condition. If it's good do not remove it from the piston. If you do it should be replaced in the exact same orientation. If it gets rotated it might not seal again. If the seal needs replaced a BSA seal from UK might fit. They should be fitted to the bore if you can. I have used springs from BSA Airsporter/Mercury and HW50 springs in the BSA's. Cut them down so there isn't too much preload to reassemble without excessive effort.
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how dose this type gun shoot ? i am just a shooter . (if i had a 56 chevy i would use it , go to lowes with it . )
 
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They shoot very well. The simple triggers are what you expect from the era. Tap loaders aren't the most efficient. A good .22 BSA runs 10- 11.5 ft lb. BSA could build a rifle. They made Enfields since Civil War times. Although not very many of those ended up in Confederate hands. The Rebels carried Enfields from another manufacturer from UK. They also produced Medford and Lee Enfields until 1939 when nasty Adolph sent his ariel attacks and the plant was bombed during the Battle of Britain. BSA still builds some of the finest barrels.
 
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beerthief said:
how dose this type gun shoot ? i am just a shooter . (if i had a 56 chevy i would use it , go to lowes with it . )
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Keep in mind that this is .177 caliber. I ran it thru my chronograph and got an average of 796 FPS with 7 grain RWS Hobby pellets. I think it's a pretty powerful spring piston gun for around 1930 (when I estimate it was made). The ten-shot spread was 20 FPS, so it was fairly consistent, too. I've not really gotten serious about testing it's accuracy yet, but just informally shooting it gives some reasonable groups!
 
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KWK said:
For any prewar BSA all you do is remove the trigger guard and then push the barrel against a piece of carpet as you unscrew the trigger block. Fairly low amount of preload They normally run under 12 ft lb for the best .22's. so the 48 is probably similar. Or less if it's a 177.
I've worked on many vintage rifles. Especially 1906-1930's BSA.

I had to edit my reply.................. I was thinking of a model 58.
First, make sure your screwdrivers fit the screws well! Don't bugger the screws.
Strip it like you would a BSA. Check the leather seal for a loose fixing screw. And anything that might be embedded in the seal. No telling what might have been inserted into the tap and fell through the transfer port. The seal may be in good condition. If it's good do not remove it from the piston. If you do it should be replaced in the exact same orientation. If it gets rotated it might not seal again. If the seal needs replaced a BSA seal from UK might fit. They should be fitted to the bore if you can. I have used springs from BSA Airsporter/Mercury and HW50 springs in the BSA's. Cut them down so there isn't too much preload to reassemble without excessive effort.
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That's an impressive collection you have there!!! I'm moving slow on this to make sure I don't damage it. Yes, I have a proper Weaver screwdriver kit with about 60 different bits or various sizes and descriptions. The cocking lever is straight (no sculpting on the end), it only has the goddess Diana (with her leg showing) and "Model 48" on it. No other markings at all. When I went exploring and took the stock off the serial number (#255) was hidden on the back of the spring tube. Any idea when this might have been manufactured? Is there some way I can contact you off line to talk about working on this gal?

Motorman
Eastern Missouri
 
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