Air Arms Prosport and TX200 walnut stock.

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Watco Teak Oil in a blue and white can (Home Depot) is very thin. If you rub on a coat it penetrates deep. Then immediately wipe it as dry as you can. Let it sit 24 hours. It will bring out the grain and retain a matte/satin sheen. You can do a few coats over a few days. Let each one thoroughly dry. Again, wipe the stock bone dry immediately after applying. Stop when desired finish is obtained. Don’t try any other brand of Teak Oil. If you have checkering or stippling I would not get oil in it. Some do but the look is not for me.
 
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Bear-of-Grayling said:
Watco Teak Oil in a blue and white can (Home Depot) is very thin. If you rub on a coat it penetrates deep. Then immediately wipe it as dry as you can. Let it sit 24 hours. It will bring out the grain and retain a matte/satin sheen. You can do a few coats over a few days. Let each one thoroughly dry. Again, wipe the stock bone dry immediately after applying. Stop when desired finish is obtained. Don’t try any other brand of Teak Oil. If you have checkering or stippling I would not get oil in it. Some do but the look is not for me.
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Is there any sanding involved?
 
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Also, the drier you get the surface after applying a new coat, the less you need to do between coats. You want to drive the oil in the woods pores while keeping the surface bare. The pores will fill eventually to the surface and the stock will take on a shine at this point. Then rub it down with the fine wool and the shine is reduced to a velvety matte finish. Takes time but worth it. Once done you will always do it this way. Also, rubbing between coats adds the left over surface oil into the pores and fills them quicker.
 
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This isn't a recommendation, but here's what happened to me.
Re-finished my (Walnut) Pro Sport after some light sanding with Tru-Oil - put on a few coats, but it was too shinny:cautious:.
In the mean time, I've sold the gun so don't have pics, but this process was not an improvement.

When I got my BSA R10 .... it had a beautiful Walnut stock, but it needed to be protected as it was bare wood - as are AA's.
Accidentally got some gun oil on the stock and it darkened the stock slightly, removing the dry Walnut look.
After this, I decided to rub a lite coat of the same oil on the entire gun stock - this was in 2016.

The stock still looks beautiful today and is protected from staining or something else.

BSA R10 Final.jpg


BSA R10 SSG Hole.jpg
 
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My first TX200 was the MK1, first factory LH to come to the US back in early 90's and had a shiney finnish on the stock. My second TX is a MK3 and has a satin finnish on the stock. Since I was using the beeswax furniture polish on my pellets and it is so highly rated for wood furniture, I used it on the stocks. Did not change color but protected the wood from moisture. Even removed the action and sprayed inside to seal the cut out surfaces. About once a month I just spray a lite coating and rub lightly with a cloth to keep everything looking good and remove any finger prints or water spots if I were shooting in the rain. My MK1 looked like new when I sold it with the exception of some minor handling marks, some 25 yrs later. My current MK3 satin stock still looks like new and I have no moisture issues with the stock sealed in beeswax. Actually good for the blued steel as well, use it on my blue and SS firearms also.
 
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I have not touched my Pro Sport yet, I might do it over the holidays. I use this on my Daystate stocks. The stock simply soaks it up like a towel. This man is a wood working genius.

bowlmakerinc.com

UTILITY FINISH OIL - 16 OZ BOTTLE - Bowl Maker Inc.

UTILITY FINISH OIL - 16 OZ BOTTLE. Made from pure California Walnut oil, Mike's Utility Finish oil offers a food-safe way to protect and beautify your turning.
bowlmakerinc.com bowlmakerinc.com
 
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rwsmike said:
I did tru oil and it looked good but if you don't like a Shine then try something different.
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Any sanding involved?
SpiralGroove said:
This isn't a recommendation, but here's what happened to me.
Re-finished my (Walnut) Pro Sport after some light sanding with Tru-Oil - put on a few coats, but it was too shinny:cautious:.
In the mean time, I've sold the gun so don't have pics, but this process was not an improvement.

When I got my BSA R10 .... it had a beautiful Walnut stock, but it needed to be protected as it was bare wood - as are AA's.
Accidentally got some gun oil on the stock and it darkened the stock slightly, removing the dry Walnut look.
After this, I decided to rub a lite coat of the same oil on the entire gun stock - this was in 2016.

The stock still looks beautiful today and is protected from staining or something else.

View attachment 417279

View attachment 417280
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Yes that looks good , what oil did you use, and how many coats did you apply?
 
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