After shimming and sighting in Pard NV008s digital scope I noticed that the mount was marring my pic rail on my Brocock.
Thankfully it’s a removable pic rail and can be easily replaced. The damage is more aesthetic than anything. But still, paid good money for my rifles and I try to take care of them. This scope wasn’t cheap either.
I suspect that the issue is that the Pard factory mount is made for weaver rails, not picatinny rails. Consequently, the mounting bolts don’t align evenly with pic rail slots. On my limited real estate on the rear pic rail, one bolt rests on top of the rail while the other is in a pic rail slot. When I lined the mount up on the rail the rear bolt aligns perfectly where it dug into my pic rail pushing up some of the softer (what I assume is) aluminum material.
There is a squared portion on the mounting bolt that I suspect is the culprit.
So removing the squared portion was essential to protect my pic rails. To do so, the bolts must be removed from the mount. They are shred by a tiny screw and washer located within the portion that you turn to tighten the mount.
They can be easily removed using a small electronics Phillips head screwdriver. It’s probably a good idea to tighten these when you first get your Pard. One of mine was missing. I don’t know if it came that way or if it fell out and I lost it somewhere in the sight-in process. The other screw was loose when I went to remove it.
To remove the problematic material on the mounting screw I chose a Dremel tool and a carbide tip.
Before grinding down the sharp squared edge I took a couple qtips and put a little Ballistol oil on them and rubbed the oil across the surface I was going to grind. Here’s a before photo. The focus is on the l edges of squared portion toward the end of the bolt in the red circle.
Here’s a look at them after removing the harmful edges.
Here’s a closer look at them.
Now there’s no sharp edges to dig into my pic rail. The bolt seems to slide on top of the rail now.
Before reassembling the mount, I used the oily qtips to wipe clean the ground down areas of the bolts. Next I reassembled them doing the opposite of what I did to remove them. I then verified my reticle settings, made adjustment within my gun’s profile, and adjusted holds at various distances making a note of the changes in my DOPE.
I guess having a weaver rail adapter would be more suitable, but if you want to work with what you have, this is an option. If anyone has found other alternatives, please share them with us. I hope this helps someone.
Thankfully it’s a removable pic rail and can be easily replaced. The damage is more aesthetic than anything. But still, paid good money for my rifles and I try to take care of them. This scope wasn’t cheap either.
I suspect that the issue is that the Pard factory mount is made for weaver rails, not picatinny rails. Consequently, the mounting bolts don’t align evenly with pic rail slots. On my limited real estate on the rear pic rail, one bolt rests on top of the rail while the other is in a pic rail slot. When I lined the mount up on the rail the rear bolt aligns perfectly where it dug into my pic rail pushing up some of the softer (what I assume is) aluminum material.
So removing the squared portion was essential to protect my pic rails. To do so, the bolts must be removed from the mount. They are shred by a tiny screw and washer located within the portion that you turn to tighten the mount.
They can be easily removed using a small electronics Phillips head screwdriver. It’s probably a good idea to tighten these when you first get your Pard. One of mine was missing. I don’t know if it came that way or if it fell out and I lost it somewhere in the sight-in process. The other screw was loose when I went to remove it.
To remove the problematic material on the mounting screw I chose a Dremel tool and a carbide tip.
Before grinding down the sharp squared edge I took a couple qtips and put a little Ballistol oil on them and rubbed the oil across the surface I was going to grind. Here’s a before photo. The focus is on the l edges of squared portion toward the end of the bolt in the red circle.
Here’s a look at them after removing the harmful edges.
Here’s a closer look at them.
Now there’s no sharp edges to dig into my pic rail. The bolt seems to slide on top of the rail now.
Before reassembling the mount, I used the oily qtips to wipe clean the ground down areas of the bolts. Next I reassembled them doing the opposite of what I did to remove them. I then verified my reticle settings, made adjustment within my gun’s profile, and adjusted holds at various distances making a note of the changes in my DOPE.
I guess having a weaver rail adapter would be more suitable, but if you want to work with what you have, this is an option. If anyone has found other alternatives, please share them with us. I hope this helps someone.
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I've ran into this...
