Protecting scope from ring marks?

What do folks use to protect their scopes from marks potentially made by the rings? Do you line the rings with (something)? Thanks.
No. You buy the scope for the gun you're rigging up. Never remove it again. 17-18 inch pounds on the rings is enough for a lightly recoiling PCP. Maybe even 15 inch pounds. If you're using a scope with a stiff zoom ring ( variable power scope) you want things to where the scope doesn't ( cant) all over the place when you move to a higher or lower magnification. That's it. You will never have to worry about ring marks again.
It's really that simple.
Don't use the magic potion milk carton liners.
 
A wrap of Teflon tape. It won't leave a residue on the scope.
I was told it will also prevent shift during temperature changes. True or not, I've not experienced any scope shift from low 40's to low 100's.
False. The reason why is because as the temperatures drop/change-------everything on that gun starts to move. Including the barrel, its rifling, the glass of the scope , inside and out, The internal parts of the gun, like the trigger and sear. And other things. So how will teflon tape prevent shifts in poi?
 
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After many years with eaglevision adjustable rings - I decided to replace with again a quality but single piece mount.
I can dual purposing now my scope between my FX Impact and a 308 Rem 700 f-class rifle like every 2-3 weeks there and back.

Zero MOA on both rails and 20 MOA on the mount.... the turret clicks are zero on .25 cal @ 100 meters and from there 9 clicks for 308 @ 300 meters.

Falcon X50T mounted on a ARC one piece ring.
 
A scope is a functional tool and part of a system, and I give little regard to ring marks. Cheap or misaligned rings gouging on the leading or trailing edge of the ring, or actually biting into the finish would not be acceptable. I have never experienced that with quality rings. The Burris do well for appropriate applications. With rare exception, modern scopes will be media blasted before anodizing which creates micro peaks and valleys in the surface finish. Applying 18in-lb even in a very high quality one piece mount will slightly compress the peaks, resulting in a matte finish or “ghost shadow” where the ring made contact. 100% contact would be the ultimate goal. When I realized this and stopped caring about finish, I was able to live a life unburdened! I would not use any kind of tape, especially one whose primary function is to reduce friction. If I was mounting a gloss scope or collectible piece, extra consideration could be warranted. Anything produced in the last few decades? Clamp it and go shoot.
 
I think on pcp's most people i know tighten them way more than needed. You'd be amazed how little torque is needed. Try taking an old cheap scope and see for yourself, lightly tighten and try to turn the scope. No torque screwdriver needed.
Springers are another animal altogether. That's where a torque screwdriver could be handy. Friction tape also helps too.