Tuning Question: Birchwood Casey Sealer & Filler

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dormitionskete

dormitionskete

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Feb 8, 2019
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Colorado, United States
www.trueorthodoxy.org
I'm getting ready to finish the walnut stock on our ProSport. It looks like Air Arms didn't put any kind of sealer at all on it. It looks like it's just bare wood.

I've been planning to use Birchwood Casey Sealer & Filler, followed by Birchwood Casey TruOil finish on it. But in looking at it, it looks like I have a few small dents in the stock I need to iron out first.

Will Birchwood Casey Sealer & Filler make it more resistant to scratches and dents?

When I refinished our HW97K beech stock, after I stripped off the old finish and ironed and / or sanded out the dents on it, I used MinWax Wood Hardener on it. I love that stuff. It'll take old wood that's so deteriorated that it's spongy and turn it rock hard. The only downside to it is that you're supposed to apply it to the bare wood, and then stain or paint it; but once you've treated it with this stuff, no stain will possibly penetrate it. Plus, it's kind of nasty to work with.

Not an issue with the ProSport, as it doesn't need stained.

After I used the wood hardener on the HW97K stock, I tried putting some Birchwood Casey Sealer & Filler on it -- I'd never used it before -- and it seemed like it what it did was really no different than the wood hardener. It looked like they both were just wood sealers. Except the Birchwook Casey Sealer & Filler wasn't so nasty to work with and clean up.

So, if the Birchwood Casey Sealer & Filler will make the stock more resistant to scratches and dents, I'd be inclined to just use it, since it's nicer to work with. But if it won't, I'd be inclined to use the wood hardener on it, too.

--

Also, I've been using this ProSport for three months with it not having any finish on it. Just bare wood. I've been thinking to clean any grime from my hands, etc. off with Denatured Alcohol. Any recommendations for me to use something else?

--

Advice appreciated!
 
Don’t use True oil. It’s a glossy mess that ruins the wood And cheapens the look .

I can’t tell you the many steps to do a true sand in oil finish.. But I can tell you the end result is what high end firearms use.
Do some research. a few have had decent luck with Minwax antique oil and scotch Brite
I make my own ..
 
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A.G.R said:
Don’t use True oil. It’s a glossy mess that ruins the wood And cheapens the look .

I can’t tell you the many steps to do a true sand in oil finish.. But I can tell you the end result is what high end firearms use.
Do some research. a few have had decent luck with Minwax antique oil and scotch Brite
I make my own ..
Click to expand...

My gun's have turned out just fine. No mess, looks great!

Tru-oil works great if you take your time and use it sparingly.
 
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A.G.R said:
as long as ”your“ happy… why are you asking then If it works so well.. 🧐 redundant confidence. 😉
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Firewalker didn't ask anything. Just offered his commentary.
Tru oil works for me I prefer glossy finishes my self
Screenshot_20240103_211451_Gallery.jpg
 
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@A.G.R regarding making your own... In woodworking and bowl turning, I use OB Shine Juice. It's made in small batches and consists of equal parts Boiled Lindseed oil, clear shellac, and denatured alcohol.

I've used it to wipe down older stocks, but havent used it to 'finish' a gunstock, but want to give it a go next time I have the opportunity. The only issue I see is that it seems to want more of a friction polish on the lathe and that would be difficult to do with a gunstock.
 
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I've been researching as well for a prosport and even made a post about it and got some real good answers and pictures of rifles finished with
various types of oils, waxes..with good results.

Air Arms - Prosport and TX200 walnut stock.

Have any of you Prosport or TX200 owners with the walnut stock put any finish on them, or just left them plain dry wood? Any oils like TRU oil or any other oils or finishes? If so, I would like to hear about your results, or show me the results. Thanks.
www.airgunnation.com www.airgunnation.com

So I've narrowed it down to JM's RLO and minwax tung oil. Since I don't want to change the color or darken over time, I think I'm going to use the tung oil. From everything I read this is the clearest oil finish, but then again I haven't tried it yet, so we'll see.
 
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dormitionskete said:
Guys -- What about the Sealer & Filler?

Will Birchwood Casey Sealer & Filler make it more resistant to scratches and dents?
Click to expand...
On raw wood it’s designed as a diluted finish to penetrate THE INNER PORES AND SOLIDIFY BELOW THE GRAIN. It’s basicly thinned out true oil with sperits . It will soak into raw wood Faster to seal and dry quicker ..As much as you think your Air Arms stock is dry ,it’s oiled with a surface danish oil. It is sealed on the surface. Mixing finishes is a recipe for disaster and potential discoloration
You are better of using lacquer thinner and a scotch brite to strip it off. Then start with whatever you want. Any way you look at it the color will darken with each coat of whatever solvent you use. Oils, varnishes, shellacs which I do not recommend . If you want it clear as possible use a water based poly spray finish and it will be as neutral as you can get with no gran depth. If you want that satin glass cat eye chatoyance ,it’s only achieved with a wet sand oil finish.

So will sealer make it more scratch and dent resistant. …NO .. STRAIT TRUE OIL HAS MORE SOLIDS THAN THE DILUTED SEALER. . .
 
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A.G.R said:
..As much as you think your Air Arms stock is dry ,it’s oiled with a surface danish oil. It is sealed on the surface.
Click to expand...

Really? !!! Well, if that's the case, it sure doesn't seem to be doing much to protect the wood.

When I first got it, I blessed it by making the Sign of the Cross on it with Holy Water on my finger. And it left that water mark on it to this day, three months later. So that's why I've always thought it was dry. It certainly looks and feels dry.

I'm going have to look into this more before I do anything with it.
 
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The question of “what finish should I use” should be asked after a full description of what type of color, sheen and finish one prefers. Some like matte, others high gloss. Some like oil, others Polyurethane, others Lacquer. Also, is the gun going to be exposed to the elements. Not really a fair question without any background information. I did finishing and refinishing for a living. Someone wants something refinished, how could I possibly do this without inquiring what they want for a finished piece.
 
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A.G.R said:
“Will Birchwood Casey Sealer & Filler make it more resistant to scratches and dents?”
”Advice appreciated”.
if that’s not asking,what is? …. 😉
either way, opinions are like a$$holes, everyone has one and at times they all stink.. even mine. 😂
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Looks like you assigned me someone's quote, I was replying to a post, those are not my words.
 
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It's funny how forums haven't changed in 25 years. I'm still in 2 bbs's that were started before Windows 95 took the world by storm. There are only a handful left but the same keyboard bullies still pound keys today here and on every forum.

I simply stated that I'd tried Tru-oil again and I found the smooth, high gloss finish to really compliment the stock on on entry level rifle.

I've sprayed high solids, water based polyurethane on most furniture but I'd have to set up my booth, get my ppe, prep my sprayer, get some fresh poly and not do any other work in the shop until I had all three coats finished and rubbed out.

Tru-oil saved me all those steps and left me with a very pretty stock with zero prep, very little rubbing and a pleasing feel.

You do you but please, stop the bullying.
 
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The finish will not harden the wood. Dents on Walnut are just inevitable with use. Hopefully small ”handling” ones. Dents, especially on Walnut are easy to steam out. The finish here when steaming does matter. Some finishes, and when using pore fillers make steaming more challenging. Pore fillers keep the steam and heat “moisture” out, hence the dent does not lift. Also some finishes like Poly and Lacquer can be damaged (melt) or cloud up trapping the moisture in. Everything is a trade off.
 
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Bear-of-Grayling said:
The finish will not harden the wood. Dents on Walnut are just inevitable with use. Hopefully small ”handling” ones. Dents, especially on Walnut are easy to steam out. The finish here when steaming does matter. Some finishes, and when using pore fillers make steaming more challenging. Pore fillers keep the steam and heat “moisture” out, hence the dent does not lift. Also some finishes like Poly and Lacquer can be damaged (melt) or cloud up trapping the moisture in. Everything is a trade off.
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Indeed! I pick what I think will work best for the item I am finishing/refinishing.

I still have a gallon can of Schole Nitrocellouse Lacquer I got when I was repairing stringed instruments for my alma mater back in the day. It was amazing on fiddles but I'd not use it on a hunter!
 
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A.G.R said:
“Will Birchwood Casey Sealer & Filler make it more resistant to scratches and dents?”
”Advice appreciated”.
if that’s not asking,what is? …. 😉
either way, opinions are like a$$holes, everyone has one and at times they all stink.. even mine. 😂
Click to expand...
No, I don’t think it’s going to make I tougher, but it does wear well. I don’t remember the exact date, but I did this Sheridan some time in the early eighties. I had done an old Marlin before, and several others since. They all look great.

IMG_2126.jpeg


Keep in mind mine are shooters and not show peices, if that makes a difference.
 
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dormitionskete said:
Really? !!! Well, if that's the case, it sure doesn't seem to be doing much to protect the wood.

When I first got it, I blessed it by making the Sign of the Cross on it with Holy Water on my finger. And it left that water mark on it to this day, three months later. So that's why I've always thought it was dry. It certainly looks and feels dry.

I'm going have to look into this more before I do anything with it.
Click to expand...
A picture is worth 1000 words.

Some of them were spit oiled and dried out and will water spot but they were oiled by the manufacture ,Minilli I believe makes most all the air rifle stocks for manufactures. Air Arms is light on the stock finish.

WHATS YOUR END GOAL... ? Waterproof wood stock does not exist. Water repellent and resistant to some degree yes.. If poeres are sealed it will not water stain
 
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