Those old Sheridan always had warm nice Walnut with linear grain.. true classics. Doc ,likes to say he was Mr.20 caliber.. But Sheridan owned that market.
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Tuning Question: Birchwood Casey Sealer & Filler
- Thread starter dormitionskete
- Start date
I don't like refinishing stocks. I've done too many of them in my life -- mostly using polyurethane or boiled linseed oil. I don't care for polyurethane for much of anything, really, but especially not stocks; and I got into big, big trouble the last time I used boiled linseed oil here because of the smell. So, I looked for other options on the internet, and discovered these two Birchwood Casey products.
I just finished using these on an HW97K stock, and I'm happy enough with how it turned out. And I found them both incredibly easy to use.
What do I want to accomplish with this ProSport? Mostly, I just want it to be protected from the weather -- I use my guns, not look at them or show them off -- and I want it to look nicer than it currently does so if I decide to sell it later on I might be able to at least not lose money on it.
Personally, I don't particularly care for gloss finishes on firearms or airguns, but when I see photos of other people's nice looking airguns on this list, I think that maybe if I spruce this up a bit, it might help with that last wish.
And I don't want to put a lot of work into this.
But if the ProSport has any kind of finish at all on it, I think that pretty much answers my question about whether or not to use wood hardener on it.
So, thanks, guys. I really appreciate it! You've been a great help to me.
I just finished using these on an HW97K stock, and I'm happy enough with how it turned out. And I found them both incredibly easy to use.
What do I want to accomplish with this ProSport? Mostly, I just want it to be protected from the weather -- I use my guns, not look at them or show them off -- and I want it to look nicer than it currently does so if I decide to sell it later on I might be able to at least not lose money on it.
Personally, I don't particularly care for gloss finishes on firearms or airguns, but when I see photos of other people's nice looking airguns on this list, I think that maybe if I spruce this up a bit, it might help with that last wish.
And I don't want to put a lot of work into this.
But if the ProSport has any kind of finish at all on it, I think that pretty much answers my question about whether or not to use wood hardener on it.
So, thanks, guys. I really appreciate it! You've been a great help to me.
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I have a couple of stocks refinished with True Oil and they look good, but that was 50 years ago. I tried it a few years ago and the stuff was too thick and dried too quick to rub out to a smooth finish. Never again
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A picture is worth 1000 words.
Some of them were spit oiled and dried out and will water spot but they were oiled by the manufacture ,Minilli I believe makes most all the air rifle stocks for manufactures. Air Arms is light on the stock finish.
WHATS YOUR END GOAL... ? Waterproof wood stock does not exist. Water repellent and resistant to some degree yes.. If poeres are sealed it will not water stain.
If your referring to ME , I did not “bully” you at all. . Internet bullying.
Really … Todays thin skinned world wants to be victimized every time someone disagrees with them..
if you look back , I said , “as long as your happy”. Use whatever you desire.. Its your God given right ..
Followed by gaslighting...
You really dont see it, do you?
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So, if it has a light coat of Danish oil on it, what would be an easy way to make it more water tight without messing it up?
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It’s very thin. Dries slowly. Don’t use any other brand. Put it on and immediately wipe it dry. What penetrates is all you want.
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I have been using a home mixture called Slackum oil, I found the formula on the doublegunshp.com site a few years back, It uses BLO, carnauba wax, turpentine, and Venetian turpentine(adds gloss. It penetrates well but takes time. You can cut the carnauba in half and use beeswax also.
Slackum oil formula
Boiled linseed oil – 16 oz
Spirits of turpentine – 2 oz
Carnauba wax – 200 gr
Venice turpentine - 2 teaspoonfuls
Mix together and heat until it simmers.
Slackum oil formula
Boiled linseed oil – 16 oz
Spirits of turpentine – 2 oz
Carnauba wax – 200 gr
Venice turpentine - 2 teaspoonfuls
Mix together and heat until it simmers.
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It’s a nice blend. I’ve used it a lot on speaker cabinets and end tables as sometimes I redundantly set a beer on them accidentally on my own stupidity..
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The Danish oil and teak oil from Watco is good stuff. Tung oil is great. Boiled linseed oil and neutral shoe polish is dandy. I like to use a laquer based sanding sealer and work it all off with sandpaper a couple coats before I use the oil.
The "wood hardener" I am familiar with is styrene in a solvent. I'm not sure how it would work with stains and finishes. It would certainly seal things up. It may be tough to sand off?
I've never worked with it. I've seen it on the shelf and read the label.
Cactus juice in a vacuum chamber is how I would do it if I was king of the world. Wood looks amazing after it's finished. You can pretty much sand it down to 1200 grit and polish it with very little or no finish at all. It seems the perfect way to finish a gunstock.
The "wood hardener" I am familiar with is styrene in a solvent. I'm not sure how it would work with stains and finishes. It would certainly seal things up. It may be tough to sand off?
I've never worked with it. I've seen it on the shelf and read the label.
Cactus juice in a vacuum chamber is how I would do it if I was king of the world. Wood looks amazing after it's finished. You can pretty much sand it down to 1200 grit and polish it with very little or no finish at all. It seems the perfect way to finish a gunstock.
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