Question for Alkin owners

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The lever is ONLY for shutting off the air supply while at the same time bleeding from whip to tank so you can remove it from the tank. The line stays pressurized between the toggle valve and the output canister to be ready for another fill without having to refill the entire assembly before each new tank is attached for filling. To bleed the line completely you have to open the output canister valve. Took me a couple of weeks to figure it out and several foster o'rings blown across the shop. I always turn off the compressor first before closing any tank valves and bleeding the system to prevent the safety valve from opening. Probably clear as mud right?
 
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The lever is ONLY for shutting off the air supply while at the same time bleeding from whip to tank so you can remove it from the tank. The line stays pressurized between the toggle valve and the output canister to be ready for another fill without having to refill the entire assembly before each new tank is attached for filling. To bleed the line completely you have to open the output canister valve. Took me a couple of weeks to figure it out and several foster o'rings blown across the shop. I always turn off the compressor first before closing any tank valves and bleeding the system to prevent the safety valve from opening. Probably clear as mud right?
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What's confusing new users is they don't realize the toggle lever merely drains pressure between the fill assembly and the tank. We don't realize there is a check valve above the toggle lever that holds pressure in the fill hose and filter housing. I see the benefit to a dive shop or power user filling multiple tanks in one session. I learned through trial and error. This fill whip is more complicated than fill hoses that are on most compressors. The confusion is that the owner' manual on this vital topic is as clear as mud, and the hose assembly is not user friendly. The pressure fittings used are unknown to me.
 
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I need an adapter that will allow the W31 fill hose to directly attach to the Alkin DIN300 connector. I don't know what the fittings are.

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Heres my set up. At start up all valves are shut, at both compressor and fill tank. When pressure equalizes I open up the fill tanks valve, and within those few minutes of filling I try to get two moisture bleeds at both filter tower and oil canister. 



When fill tank tank is full I shut off both the fill tanks valve and that stainless lever on the fill hose. Disconnect from tank then do one more moisture bleed, then that brass round knob bleeds the entire system of air. 



This is the method shown to me by whom I bought this compressor from.
 
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Sonny. The problem I think (???) is the instructions. ( in that one paper Alkin was sent me outlining the use of the fill valve ) The terms are not used clearly. Reading the instructions no place does it say DRAIN VALVE. which is what we should be applying to the three black knobs on the compressor. (Right?) I follow what you have just posted . Shutting down here is what I think should be done. Close the valve on the air tank and quickly as you can open three DRAIN VALVES part way which stops the compressor from building pressure. At this point I’m suggesting that you run the compressor under light pressure to allow it to cool down. I’m adjusting the pressure with the drain valve. Once it’s cooled down the I shut off the compressor and open the drain valves fully. THEN you toggle the FILL value up (closed) which releases pressure just in the hose. I plan to talk to Alkin tomorrow.
I don’t like to drop the pressure in the compressor from 4000 PSI to zero so that’s why I’m feathering the drain valve opening. I also don’t like shutting the compressor off when it’s hot.
Essentially this is what I do with the daystate. Only difference the day state has only one drain valve. When starting a fill turn the compressor on and let it run a short time. Close all three drain valves. Pressure builds open the fill valve. Then open the valve then the air tank valve 
 
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I always keep a commercial grade high speed fan blowing directly at my Alkin to aid in cooling. But remember, these things were designed to run 10-14 hours straight, with 3 sets of intercooler manifolds(3 or 2, can’t remember) these Alkins shouldn’t need after fill run times to aid in cool down, especially for how fast they fill. 

I can understand how the tuxing types and yong heng types need that after cooling run time as they are high rpm and get so hot really quick, and are dependent on coolant flow to cool the heads. They have no intercooler ducts like the Alkins do. 

But, hey, they are costly pieces of equipment, and if they make you sleep better to let it do a cool down, to each their own, right? Me blowing a fan directly on it for a half hour after shut down is no different.
 
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