Question for FFP Scope Chairgun Users

Hey guys,

Getting my first FFP scope and want to make sure my assumption is correct about how to use Chairgun with it. So I will have this scope:
1690465576669.png

And I think I'm just going to use the "generic mil-dot" reticle in Chairgun.

They have a setting for current magnification and then calibration magnification in the top right corner.
Screenshot_20230727_084756_ChairGun.jpg

My question is: Since this is FFP scope, I would just always set those two to the same magnification, correct?

Thanks in advance!
 
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on chairgun,when using first focal plane scopes,

use the "hawke FFP extended" reticle.

it has worked very well for ffp scopes with a mil reticle,
has worked for that same exact scope for me.

also,on chairgun,
the "sight height" parameter is crucial,
measure carefully.

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Thank you! I will try that out but I also just found Strelok Pro on Samsung App store and got that. Guess I'll have to compare apps. So far Strelok is more confusing but I think it's technicalities will make it more accurate.

Yes I get my calipers out for the sight height measurements!!! Almost wish it let you go to the thousands lol
 
See this article on Chairgun scope height....


(Originally posted by Harry’s Lad, the programmer of Chairgun).
 
See this article on Chairgun scope height....


(Originally posted by Harry’s Lad, the programmer of Chairgun).
That's kinda whacky... I suppose I've been measuring incorrectly this whole time. So just shoot something at close range and measure that vs where you aimed?

myself,i find chairgun quick and less cluttered.

and i love the distance slider in the reticle view,

range the target,
slide the slider the that yardage,
and the dot shows me my holdover :cool:

and i have scopecam video to back up its accuracy lol
Yeah I just got Srelok Pro and immediately noticed how easy it is to use Chairgun compared to it. However Strelok has tons of reticles and pellets already in the database. So pros and cons I guess.
 
I'm not into scopes but I found this thread and I like the reticle.. so I don't understand, is that scope programmable with a app? last scope I had it was just whatever it was when you get it.. so much has changed over the years.. people have cameras on them😳 and I saw a rifle, I forgot the name but you can program the pellet, velocity, and everything.. electronic trigger so I suppose a scope could be programmed.. just never heard of it..
Mark
 
I'm not into scopes but I found this thread and I like the reticle.. so I don't understand, is that scope programmable with a app? last scope I had it was just whatever it was when you get it.. so much has changed over the years.. people have cameras on them😳 and I saw a rifle, I forgot the name but you can program the pellet, velocity, and everything.. electronic trigger so I suppose a scope could be programmed.. just never heard of it..
Mark


no,its just a regular scope that has a mil reticle.

the app can be used with any gun/scope combination to find out your holdovers
 
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no,its just a regular scope that has a mil reticle.

the app can be used with any gun/scope combination to find out your holdovers
oh ok.. so the app tells you where to sight in at whatever distance... that's pretty convenient.. I'm used to iron sights and well if I am target shooting long range I just try to guess the first shot and then adjust.. that's pretty neat.. first shot dead on.
 
They actually DO make fancy electronic scopes that show you where you need to hold:

I've also seen one where you mark the target, pull the trigger, but it doesn't shoot til you physically are lined up. That's $$$ though.

 
See this article on Chairgun scope height....


(Originally posted by Harry’s Lad, the programmer of Chairgun).
Was just thinking about this more. So what happens if you have a 20MOA rail or some other way to make the scope not parallel like adjustable rings (make rear one notch higher than front). Would that mess up this way of finding scope height?

Reason I ask is I used the "wrong way" to measure scope height for my Avenger but have my scope mounted so the rear is one notch higher than the front so I hit closer to bullseye after mechanically zeroing but before adjusting turrets... and I can hit a 2 inch spinner at 75 yards every time using the holds given by Chairgun's calculations.
 
Was just thinking about this more. So what happens if you have a 20MOA rail or some other way to make the scope not parallel like adjustable rings (make rear one notch higher than front). Would that mess up this way of finding scope height?

Reason I ask is I used the "wrong way" to measure scope height for my Avenger but have my scope mounted so the rear is one notch higher than the front so I hit closer to bullseye after mechanically zeroing but before adjusting turrets... and I can hit a 2 inch spinner at 75 yards every time using the holds given by Chairgun's calculations.
That is one of the reasons that scope height should be measured as explained in the article. Zero your scope at your chosen distance, irrespective of how you get there, whether it be adjustable mounts or 20\30 moa rail. Once rifle is zeroed then measure scope height for that zero, thereafter any holdover or turret dial which is based on your zero will be from a known scope height of the zero.
 
That is one of the reasons that scope height should be measured as explained in the article. Zero your scope at your chosen distance, irrespective of how you get there, whether it be adjustable mounts or 20\30 moa rail. Once rifle is zeroed then measure scope height for that zero, thereafter any holdover or turret dial which is based on your zero will be from a known scope height of the zero.
Makes sense! It's just its 2023 and no one has phone books anymore haha Maybe I'll just tape a piece of paper to a dead tree and draw a cross hair on that and shoot & see my scope height.

Sounds like the closer you are to touching the muzzle to the paper the more accurate the reading will be. I think if I draw real thick cross hair then I'll be able to see it even if the scope is out of focus from being that close.
 
I have both StrelokPro and chair gun and have never measured scope height that way. I have verified drops on air rifles and powder burners and it's always been spot on. Drops verified out to 1200 on rifles and. Always spot on. You need to shoot a water line past your sight in distance at a known distance, dial the clicks in or use proper holdover and see where it hits vertically and adjust your BC or speed so that the program will be correct. To each his own
 
I have both StrelokPro and chair gun and have never measured scope height that way. I have verified drops on air rifles and powder burners and it's always been spot on. Drops verified out to 1200 on rifles and. Always spot on. You need to shoot a water line past your sight in distance at a known distance, dial the clicks in or use proper holdover and see where it hits vertically and adjust your BC or speed so that the program will be correct. To each his own
Yeah I have been spot on with my Avenger using the "wrong way" to measure, maybe it is just so close that being off with BC or FPS makes up the difference.

I have a laser bore sighter with different caliber attachments you put in the "tail" that goes down the muzzle so it is centered with different bore diameters. Wonder if doing that would also work, just have someone downrange with a pen or maybe I can get set up on a table and bench the gun with the laser on and mark it myself.
 
I have both StrelokPro and chair gun and have never measured scope height that way. I have verified drops on air rifles and powder burners and it's always been spot on. Drops verified out to 1200 on rifles and. Always spot on. You need to shoot a water line past your sight in distance at a known distance, dial the clicks in or use proper holdover and see where it hits vertically and adjust your BC or speed so that the program will be correct. To each his own
That is the method to get your dope past your zero range. For distances closer than your zero range, scope height is the biggest factor. We are shooting rainbows, so you manipulate the scope height in the software to match the uphill part of the rainbow, and you manipulate BC for the downhill part of the rainbow.
The tin foil method is pretty accurate. For me, I zero at my zero range and then shoot at a 10 yard target. Measure the drop and change the scope height in the software until the 10 yard drop matches up. I do the same thing at my farthest distance (55 yards for FT) and tinker with the BC until the drop matches.

I typically use Chairgun on the desktop to figure out the scope height and BC because it's easy, then transfer that data into StrelokPro because I like their phone app better than Chairgun.

I don't know why I bother with any of this, since I wind up confirming all of the yardages anyway. The apps are more useful for long range shooting, where confirming all of the yardages would take forever.
 
That is the method to get your dope past your zero range. For distances closer than your zero range, scope height is the biggest factor. We are shooting rainbows, so you manipulate the scope height in the software to match the uphill part of the rainbow, and you manipulate BC for the downhill part of the rainbow.
The tin foil method is pretty accurate. For me, I zero at my zero range and then shoot at a 10 yard target. Measure the drop and change the scope height in the software until the 10 yard drop matches up. I do the same thing at my farthest distance (55 yards for FT) and tinker with the BC until the drop matches.

I typically use Chairgun on the desktop to figure out the scope height and BC because it's easy, then transfer that data into StrelokPro because I like their phone app better than Chairgun.

I don't know why I bother with any of this, since I wind up confirming all of the yardages anyway. The apps are more useful for long range shooting, where confirming all of the yardages would take forever.
I'm the same way. I confirm all my drops for ft.