Is there a way to calm down the radical vibration that some break barrels have, some are ok reasonable but others are or seem too much, spring too short, too long, too strong, no lube ??? Or nothing can be done with out power loss.
Question for springer tech
- Thread starter Rawroots
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Do you have a specific springer in mind here? For an HW its usually as simple as just fitting a proper guide to the factory spring. Twang and vibration disappears and it turns into just a quick slap.
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500 pellet tune... springers wear in, not out. Get a cheap tin of pellets (is there such a thing any more) and just shoot it. Let things settle in and wear in.
If it's still an issue, you can try to lightly tar the spring, can even be done through the slot at the bottom, though you wont get the whole spring.
Ensure all stock screws are tight.
Barring all that, depending on the model you have, you can get a tune kit from ARH and install on your own. If a well known model, can likely even find 'how to' guides on YouTube to get you started.
If it's still an issue, you can try to lightly tar the spring, can even be done through the slot at the bottom, though you wont get the whole spring.
Ensure all stock screws are tight.
Barring all that, depending on the model you have, you can get a tune kit from ARH and install on your own. If a well known model, can likely even find 'how to' guides on YouTube to get you started.
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Proven ideas:
1. Get tighter spring guide or use heavy tar on the spring
2. Install softer spring and use washers to dial in the power you want
3. Install delrin buttons or delrin o-rings on the piston to ride on - this can smooth things out
4. Install softer material or parachute piston seal to reduce felt piston slam
5. Use plastic bottle or aluminum can to create an inner piston guide - works similar to a spring guide but hugs the inside of the piston body
6. Install forearm screw cups to better tighten the action to the stock.
7. Either soft bed or glass bed the action to the stock
8. Downsize the compression chamber and skeletonize the piston. This reduces the mass and thus recoil while increasing the compression peak.
9. Install weighs in the stock. Mass reduces recoil and vibration
10. Get a recoilless springer like the Diana 54 or FWB 300s.
-Marty
1. Get tighter spring guide or use heavy tar on the spring
2. Install softer spring and use washers to dial in the power you want
3. Install delrin buttons or delrin o-rings on the piston to ride on - this can smooth things out
4. Install softer material or parachute piston seal to reduce felt piston slam
5. Use plastic bottle or aluminum can to create an inner piston guide - works similar to a spring guide but hugs the inside of the piston body
6. Install forearm screw cups to better tighten the action to the stock.
7. Either soft bed or glass bed the action to the stock
8. Downsize the compression chamber and skeletonize the piston. This reduces the mass and thus recoil while increasing the compression peak.
9. Install weighs in the stock. Mass reduces recoil and vibration
10. Get a recoilless springer like the Diana 54 or FWB 300s.
-Marty
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Again, depending on the rifle, Vortek has kits that both tame the spring noise and usually add some fps.
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For me the easiest and cheapest way is to simply cut 4 coils off of the spring. Once it's cut you simply have to flatten the end, deburr it and polish it up a little, and then finally lube it up and then put it back together. There are a bunch of YouTube videos that show how to safely remove and reinstall the spring. Safety glasses are a must. After the first time it becomes pretty easy.
On the downside you will lose a little velocity, on the upside it will be easier to cock, and the spring will likely last longer. It will likely also be more accurate since the recoil won't affect your shots as much.
On the downside you will lose a little velocity, on the upside it will be easier to cock, and the spring will likely last longer. It will likely also be more accurate since the recoil won't affect your shots as much.
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Exactly what Marty said. A tight spring guide and a piston sleeve along with some heavy tar and you'll see a radical difference.
What rifle do you have?
What rifle do you have?
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Better fitting parts offsets the need for goops.
First and foremost is make sure the piston seal is sealing well and the gun isn't overlubed. Even with a tune kit and aftermarket parts, the gun will still shoot rough and won't perform well if it's not sealing well.
A properly fitted piston seal, a tophat or spring sleeve, and a tight fitting spring guide are the best things you can do for a spring gun and it makes a huge difference.
First and foremost is make sure the piston seal is sealing well and the gun isn't overlubed. Even with a tune kit and aftermarket parts, the gun will still shoot rough and won't perform well if it's not sealing well.
A properly fitted piston seal, a tophat or spring sleeve, and a tight fitting spring guide are the best things you can do for a spring gun and it makes a huge difference.
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you can always improve things as above said, first step is just knowing where your at with it .. a blanket list of do this or do that isnt really gonna be effective, first you need a fixture to get the spring out, break it down and feel out whats going on .. you need also to source and size parts like piston seal and lubes, as well as procedures like polishing the sealing and action surfaces.. then you can proceed .. a good do over with fresh quality seal, polishing the right things, and getting it properly lubed will make it a new animal .. if its still harsh, go from therr ..
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My HW95L .22 shot cycle after an ARH kit, Vortek piston seal, GPL-205 lube after a through clean/polish. Average 17 FPE.
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After 30 years at the tuning, and going from one margin to the other and back again… i say keep any kind of goop out. As a first and foremost.
Most grease, even Moly can play havoc, especially when subjected to varying ambient temp…and slows a rifle too much…
A decent guide set dont need any goop and saving just a hint for seal assembly will keep it lubed more than sufficient…
I once conducted an experiment of getting the pellet out the gun faster, with less than calm manners, versus slower with the calmest of cycle…..the faster gun was hardly any different.It just felt less nice.
I concluded pellets out quicker, have less time to get impacted by the mechanism.
Conclusion….there is too much time spent making the things shoot nicer and nice…..Get it reasonable and learn to shoot it…
Most grease, even Moly can play havoc, especially when subjected to varying ambient temp…and slows a rifle too much…
A decent guide set dont need any goop and saving just a hint for seal assembly will keep it lubed more than sufficient…
I once conducted an experiment of getting the pellet out the gun faster, with less than calm manners, versus slower with the calmest of cycle…..the faster gun was hardly any different.It just felt less nice.
I concluded pellets out quicker, have less time to get impacted by the mechanism.
Conclusion….there is too much time spent making the things shoot nicer and nice…..Get it reasonable and learn to shoot it…
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This is what FWB did with the 150/300 series, and Weihrauch did with the 55. Probably several others as well.
They were setup for a quick zero bounce shot cycle. Big ports, light pistons, and bumpers and soft leather seals to keep the piston from beating the end out of the tube. Lightning quick and calm, but crippled on power output.
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Nothing beats a fitted seal, a snug proper fitting guide and a good quality spring.
Things like fitting an aluminum can as a sleeve in the piston or around the guide are not tunes, they are work arounds. I've recently received a few springers that had ARH Tar and what a fricken mess that was. Did it feel okay... yes, but it is not the best fix for the job. The amount of effort one puts into a springer from disassembling it and cleaning out all the factory lube, deburring, etc at least put a fitted guide or spring in.
What I recommend to EVERYBODY who wants a better guide/ spring fitment is to grab a caliper and once your gun is taken apart, then measure the diameter of your guide. For example, the Diana 430L. Has a guide that fits a Vortek 0.780" OD 0.118 Spring with 29-30 coils nearly perfectly. On the Vortek site there will be specs for springs including ID. Match up the specs to your guide, and if your gun doesn't have a tophat ask Tom to make you one, or someone else.
If you have a gun with a larger OD spring like 0.8-0.9" od, and 0.130 wire and it's super loose on the guide, you can go a step down on spring diameter and wire diameter to get the proper guide fitment. Assuming there are the same amount of active coils, and overall spring length. Two springs with the exact same wire diameter but different OD sizes will have different spring rates. The smaller diameter spring will have more lb/in. So I've gone down in diameter and wire size, made the spring 2-3 coils shorter added a tophat and had the same power. It was smoother as well.
Not a fan of factory springs from nearly any factory gun especially once it's had a couple tins through it with an improperly fitted guide and gets kinked. I also don't like to use drop in kits unless I have to.
Proper lube, sizing is very important. I've been asked what lubricant will last years with little to no maintenance in a springer. NO SUCH THING. I'm an idiot about springer maintenance, lubricant migrates gets in front of the seal etc. If you want to know your gun is in tip top shape I'd recommend a strip, inspection and relube at least once a year for maximum insurance.
Other than the trigger group, I strip my gun about 90% down for cleaning and relube, with inspection before every major shoot. That means I strip my tx on average of once a month during the shooting season. Things like my fun springers get stripped once a year or so to be cleaned up if they are used moderately.
Cam
Things like fitting an aluminum can as a sleeve in the piston or around the guide are not tunes, they are work arounds. I've recently received a few springers that had ARH Tar and what a fricken mess that was. Did it feel okay... yes, but it is not the best fix for the job. The amount of effort one puts into a springer from disassembling it and cleaning out all the factory lube, deburring, etc at least put a fitted guide or spring in.
What I recommend to EVERYBODY who wants a better guide/ spring fitment is to grab a caliper and once your gun is taken apart, then measure the diameter of your guide. For example, the Diana 430L. Has a guide that fits a Vortek 0.780" OD 0.118 Spring with 29-30 coils nearly perfectly. On the Vortek site there will be specs for springs including ID. Match up the specs to your guide, and if your gun doesn't have a tophat ask Tom to make you one, or someone else.
If you have a gun with a larger OD spring like 0.8-0.9" od, and 0.130 wire and it's super loose on the guide, you can go a step down on spring diameter and wire diameter to get the proper guide fitment. Assuming there are the same amount of active coils, and overall spring length. Two springs with the exact same wire diameter but different OD sizes will have different spring rates. The smaller diameter spring will have more lb/in. So I've gone down in diameter and wire size, made the spring 2-3 coils shorter added a tophat and had the same power. It was smoother as well.
Not a fan of factory springs from nearly any factory gun especially once it's had a couple tins through it with an improperly fitted guide and gets kinked. I also don't like to use drop in kits unless I have to.
Proper lube, sizing is very important. I've been asked what lubricant will last years with little to no maintenance in a springer. NO SUCH THING. I'm an idiot about springer maintenance, lubricant migrates gets in front of the seal etc. If you want to know your gun is in tip top shape I'd recommend a strip, inspection and relube at least once a year for maximum insurance.
Other than the trigger group, I strip my gun about 90% down for cleaning and relube, with inspection before every major shoot. That means I strip my tx on average of once a month during the shooting season. Things like my fun springers get stripped once a year or so to be cleaned up if they are used moderately.
Cam
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