Questions About EDgun Lelya 2.0 Lubing Points

[Ezana4CE]

After searching for about an hour, I came up with no useful information about lubricating the EDgun Lelya. 2.0. Today I removed the breech block and baffles to clean the barrel. Before reassembling I used silicone oil on a couple of o-rings and moly paste on metal surfaces where it looked like there was metal-to-metal contact (hinges, linkages, the seat, around the hammer, etc) - unless the area already appeared to be well lubricated. Once I reassembled the gun, I cocked it with the intent to decock it to check that the puzzle linkage was connected and functioning correctly. It did, but what I noticed is that after pulling the cooking lever back, the carriage slipped forward a couple of times, not every time. I then decocked it and put it away. I wanted to take her out to re-lead the barrel some, but I refuse to load a gun behaving this way. I read a couple of forum posts elsewhere regarding lubricated versus dry sears and I wonder if applying moly paste to the sear is causing the issue. I didn’t disassemble the carriage and I don’t recall lubircating anything in that area. If anyone can provide any insight into what I should look for to correct this problem I would greatly appreciate it. Also, if you know of any threads or videos that address lubricating the Lelya 2.0, please point me in the right direction. Thanks. 


Dave

 

[Lotte]

Anytime lubrication gets on parts that need some friction to function like a sear you can have issues like this, real gun or airgun. It’s better if you want a cleaner breaking trigger to polish this part but keep it dry. I’m not saying you can’t wipe it down with an oily rag but I definitely wouldn’t have any leftover build up. 

 

[Ezana4CE]

Anytime lubrication gets on parts that need some friction to function like a sear you can have issues like this, real gun or airgun. It’s better if you want a cleaner breaking trigger to polish this part but keep it dry. I’m not saying you can’t wipe it down with an oily rag but I definitely wouldn’t have any leftover build up.

Thanks. I thought this might be the case. I didn’t think it would be too big of an issue because I applied the moly paste around the hinge points that the pins go through holding them in place where there is friction. I don’t recall the sear surface being exposed and I didn’t take the trigger assembly apart. I’ll check it again this evening, but from what I recall l applied the molly through holes in the chasis. I’m sure I messed something up by doing so, but it seems that cleaning some of these areas may help to resolve the issue.

I’d still like to find info on recommended lubrication and areas to lubricate periodically. I read through the owner’s manual and didn’t find what I was looking for and nothing in the AGN threads. As old as the R5M/Lelya platform is I’m hoping the info is out there somewhere. 

 

[lbc_PSI]

but what I noticed is that after pulling the cooking lever back, the carriage slipped forward a couple of times, not every time. I then decocked it and put it away.

Dave

Dave,

The carriage movement might just be gravity related. If the gun is pointed toward the floor, cocking and then releasing the handle will probably result in the carriage sliding down with gravity. there is nothing keeping the carriage "opened" like in a linkage type cocking mechanism (FX or Cricket2).

I noticed the carriage motion because I use a CARM single shot tray on my Lelya. If I cock with the gun pointing down, the tray won't open..because the probe moves forward (down) with the carriage. If I cock with the gun level or pointed upward, there are no issues with the carriage moving forward.

/Larry

 

[Ezana4CE]

Took it apart again and captured these photos to better explain where I placed moly paste. Hopefully someone can provide advice as to where exactly I need to clean to remedy the issue of the carriage “slipping” forward sometimes (as if something is not consistently catching in order to engage the hammer) when pulling back the cocking lever all the way back. 

 

[jwrabbit123]

Hi Encae Its Lou ok first off , get some ballisoil or any thin oil as a cleaner and get rid of any moly paste in all parts , next after you brush it all out with say ballistoil just blow with air if you have a compressor if not wipe it out with say Qtips and rags ,

Do not mess with polishing any part of sear just keep it clean you can ass a tiny drop of ballistoil thats it , they work best like this , If you have any issue call me on phone or dont understand .

PS edguns are very durable platforms and are made to keep everything working even under hardest conditions of extreme cold to heat , They wont ever fail you , and lastly you will not find much from ED or Brian for lubing for maintenance as guns really require nothing but clean now and then , Some other guns yes require you to lube a friction point or they can become quite sticky or even fail to operate , The ed-gun does not fit in same category , they Rugged and built like a tank , The lelya requires much more pressure to operate the action then say a impact or a taipan but again this is due to The cocking handle on the Lelya is a 1 to 1 ratio you pull back to cock the sear , while say a Impact or taipan , it is a lever so it is easier to cock , This is totally normal for this and they require some authority to cock ,dont worry you will not break or bend anything . lastly about 1 thing I used to put a drop of say super lube on is the cocking rod where it hinges to the breech , this is only spot I would use any grease ,

LOU

 

[Ezana4CE]

@jwrabbit123 Much appreciated. I’ll give it shot and call if I need further assistance. 

 

[MikeVV]

Anytime lubrication gets on parts that need some friction to function like a sear you can have issues like this, real gun or airgun. It’s better if you want a cleaner breaking trigger to polish this part but keep it dry. I’m not saying you can’t wipe it down with an oily rag but I definitely wouldn’t have any leftover build up.

"Anytime" that you have either rotating OR sliding parts (like a sear !), a lubricant is a plus for long lasting, "undamaged" surfaces.

Lotte - Ever heard the term "galling" ? This can be caused by both similar materials OR dissimilar materials rubbing on each other. More pressure, equals more chance of galling. Another word for this is "friction". Friction is...a BAD thing. If this is real bad, it WILL cause metal to be transferred from one part to the other. One really ugly place is the camshaft and lifters in an engine. Improper oiling will "destroy" both the cam and the lifters. There's MANY other places like this in your vehicle...AND your guns !

So, Lotte, I hope you don't mind, I'm keeping ALL of the friction points in my guns lubed.

One caveat, if I were in the military, in dirty, dusty, muddy locations, yeah, I would agree with you 100%, a total dry gun. But, none of my guns (air powered, or powder fired) will be found out in these conditions.

Mike

 

[Ezana4CE]

Ok. After taking @jwrabbit123’s advice, I think I was able to solve the issue. The problem seems to have been moly paste on the edge of the sear that the hammer rests upon (the narrow edge resting upon the hammer above the tip of the longer arrow pointing upward in the photo below). I managed to clean off the edges and contact surface of the sear as well as the edges and surface of the hammer. To clean the hammer I pulled the cocking lever slowly and cleaned the surfaces as they passed. Then I used a lightly soaked q-tip swab to brush a light coat of Ballistol across the contact surface of the hammer (bracketed area with arrow above it in photo below).

After coating the hammer I cocked the rifle many times and pulled the trigger as I held the cocking lever (to prevent dry firing). I didn’t have an issues with the hammer not catching the sear - which was the reason the carriage would pop forward sometimes when attempting to cock the rifle. If the issue occurs again I’ll update the thread. Thank you Lou, @Lotte, MikeVV, for contributing to the thread. I also reached out to the manufacturer to see what they recommend for lubricating the rifle and which points around the rifle need lubricating. I hunt with this rifle in light rain, fog, high humidity, cold, etc. so I am concerned about keeping the rifle properly lubricated to keep it performing optimally. If I receive a response from the manufacturer outside of this thread I’ll post the response so we can have some sort of uniform resource to reference. Thanks again folks. 

 

[miksatx]

broke the slider on my lelya 2.0 .177 a couple days ago, so things do break.