I shoot open division with a Vector Sentinel 10-40x50 scope and am having trouble with reliably ranging especially at longer distances. I have used a UTG 100 mm wheel and now a custom comma wheel, but I have difficulty with my scope being in focus every time at the same point on the wheel. For instance, if I focus at a target at 50 yards my wheel may not line up in the same place if I attempt to range find several times. I have tried focusing from near to far and vice versa but with the same inconsistent results. I am well aware that I am using a budget scope that is probably not suited for field target, but what kind of repeatable, reliable range finding could I expect with a better scope like a Hawke airmax or sidewinder 8-32? Are there any other low cost scopes that could be considered, like Discovery or Muellar 8-32?
range finding
- Thread starter rong1966
- Start date
I've no experience with the Sentinel but 1st thing is check your scope mounts. If too tight, it wreaks havoc on a lot of modern side focus scopes. A few INCH pounds in all that is required. I was actually amazed at how LITTLE it takes to cause problems on some.
2nd... technique. My wife and I use the leading edge of in focus rather than center of focus. It is much more consistent for us to find how clear it can be, then back off and refocus JUST TO THE EDGE OF THAT.
3rd... find the most texture you can, at or near the target... even if it's the grass or dirt beside it.
4th... don't peer through your scope for too long at a time. Your eye will adapt. Do it several times if you are unsure and take the average.
Bob
2nd... technique. My wife and I use the leading edge of in focus rather than center of focus. It is much more consistent for us to find how clear it can be, then back off and refocus JUST TO THE EDGE OF THAT.
3rd... find the most texture you can, at or near the target... even if it's the grass or dirt beside it.
4th... don't peer through your scope for too long at a time. Your eye will adapt. Do it several times if you are unsure and take the average.
Bob
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Agreed on the Sightron and Falcon. A buddy of mine swears by the Sightron and I by the Falcon.
And an FWIW.....
I have found adjusting the ocular fast focus ring at a range you are finding challenging, it may help "snap" the target into focus. I try and find a happy medium of adjustment between near, medium and far targets.
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Bob, I will definitely check my scope mount rings to make sure they are not too tight. I also try to focus to the leading edge, i.e. when the target is first into focus, but that "spot" on my wheel is not always the same. I can refocus a target several times, say at 55 yards, and it won't consistently line up with my 55 yard mark and will frequently overlap my 50 yard mark. This also happens at shorter distances to a lesser extent.
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The Vortex Diamondback 6-24 works well for me. Clear glass, repeatable focus. You can also try focusing on the front of the concrete block. The texture makes it easier to focus at distance.
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+1 for the Sightron Slll 10-50 x 60. It really does range well at the 45 plus distances.
Also, I would underscore Arzrover's suggestion about using the edge of when the picture comes into focus. There's just too much wiggle room where the picture stays in focus. Remember to come from the same direction (near to far or far to near) every time.
Chas
Also, I would underscore Arzrover's suggestion about using the edge of when the picture comes into focus. There's just too much wiggle room where the picture stays in focus. Remember to come from the same direction (near to far or far to near) every time.
Chas
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It is your inexpensive scope choice .... Backlash and a general lack of precision in the parrilax mechanics is the cause for this IMO.
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Can I ask a ranging question? I hope I am not getting off topic. I have used a Aztec, Leupold, Sightron, Hawke. I don't have reputable success ranging past 45ish. I have tried methods of stoping my wheel as soon as I get focus, turning past focus then back to where focus started and looking at a average, and trying to look at a edge where I know I have the best focus. I just found one to work best for ME. Something I have thought but not tried is taking the using parallax out and not worrying necessarily about focus. Now on my Hawke if I bob my head around to be sure parallax is removed that is not where I have the best focus. My question is would removing parallax be more reputable as in temp. Change than using the parallax to focus? I have no idea but wondered. I hope I ask this clearly.
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Have you tried a 10-50 and ranged on 50x yet? 50x in a decent quality scope sure helps. From there you'd need to test temp sensitivity at actual temps and mark distances, then write down the differences, also I suggest getting some temp tape and keep your scope covered when out on the course. BUT I've always kept my gun in the case and have never had any problems that I could tell was temp related. Though I have seen it happen real bad on a guys S&B 12.5-50 one time so I guess it can depend on the scope being used.
Also keep the diopter on the same setting you started all the testing at. Sometimes you can get the parallax to coincide with the side wheel markings by adjusting the diopter but that needs to be done first thing before you begin marking all the distances on the wheel. Also only range on the highest magnification.
Before I do anything else I set a target at my sight in distance, then make sure my zero is perfect, and come back to double check at least a couple times when I'm reconfirming my dope.
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The scopes I have tried are all in the 6-24ish range. I shoot Hunter so I never have thought about getting the high magnification. I haven't even looked thru one.
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If it's any consolation I don't think it's easy to range with any scope on 16x??!! At least it's not 12x like it used to be.
I don't like restrictions of magnification and I dislike not being sure what the distance is either, and that's exactly why I don't shoot Hunter aymore. Also if you have blood sugar issues and your eyes fluctuate, then ranging is going to become harder.
I really enjoy shooting in Freestyle which enables me to know the distance and not having to get down into sitting position and back up again. If I miss it's all on me not because I ranged wrong for whatever reason.
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Steve, that is probably what I should do is shoot freestyle. Even when I have placed I don’t except any trophy that I would just throw on my work bench then throw out some time. I may just change over. That’s how I would hunt anyway. I am glad you posted.
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