Ranging

[oldsparky]

Hi guys, can I ask a few questions that others may know the answers too? I have played at hunter field target the last few years but have not been able to be consistent attending because of stuff getting in the way. I have tried ranging with several scopes and have never really been satisfied. The best scope I have tried was a Sightron 6-24 big sky with an adjustable objective. It's the first scope I tried I had it on a Air Arms and just took it out. The problem with that scope was it was a duplex so I always used Kentucky windage hold over with it. Since then I have tried several scopes. Last night I was trying to get the marks set up on a side wheel for my Athlon Midas HMR 2.5-15 conditions were very sunny and hot! I just can not tell much difference between 40-55. I read on here from guys that seem to know that there are unfavorable times to range and some times conditions are better for ranging. so is it better to range in the shade or on a bright target? Hot or cold? I wish I knew how to ask this better but I don't. So what are favorable ranging conditions vs unfavorable? I am starting to think I just may not ever master the ranging but I want to give it a good effort.



thanks

 

[Solo1]

It has a lot to do with what range you sight in at. I haven’t found a scope that ranges @ 40 or 55 as well as 20. Which is why in my opinion the good shooters shoot as close to 20 fpe as possible and just get good at judging the far distances

 

[Motorhead]

Also paying CLOSE attention to your D.O.P.E. data of what the hold over is beyond the minimum range your scope says it @ is. Fitting both hold overs of min and max @ distance targets distance could be at is a tactic experienced shooters use.

When you range a target 40 and under you generally have a solid distance. If further targets are not that accurate STOP AIMING at the middle of the KZ and buy yourself some fudging for further distance than ranged by holding over a tad more. * For when at distances you KNOW won't be over shot ( Going High ) if you are aiming CENTER of KZ your only giving yourself 1/2 the KZ size to drop the pellet into !!!! This in CLOSE as well FAR !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Understanding our pellets are traveling upward until at flight apex ( Ideal zero range ) so close shots if missed will generally be 6:00 misses and Not 12:00.

Same for the far shots, Once past your zero range pellets are falling lower with increasing distance and more times than not folks range a tad short of actual & again misses trend to fall LOW and not high.

Keeping shots inside your zero range and past your zero shot into the upper 1/3 to 1/4 of a KZ hole and WITH PRACTICE and Knowing your rifle WILL absolutely increase your score potential.



Scott S

 

[Gear_Junkie]

Also paying CLOSE attention to your D.O.P.E. data of what the hold over is beyond the minimum range your scope says it @ is. Fitting both hold overs of min and max @ distance targets distance could be at is a tactic experienced shooters use.

When you range a target 40 and under you generally have a solid distance. If further targets are not that accurate STOP AIMING at the middle of the KZ and buy yourself some fudging for further distance than ranged by holding over a tad more. * For when at distances you KNOW won't be over shot ( Going High ) if you are aiming CENTER of KZ your only giving yourself 1/2 the KZ size to drop the pellet into !!!! This in CLOSE as well FAR !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Understanding our pellets are traveling upward until at flight apex ( Ideal zero range ) so close shots if missed will generally be 6:00 misses and Not 12:00.

Same for the far shots, Once past your zero range pellets are falling lower with increasing distance and more times than not folks range a tad short of actual & again misses trend to fall LOW and not high.

Keeping shots inside your zero range and past your zero shot into the upper 1/3 to 1/4 of a KZ hole and WITH PRACTICE and Knowing your rifle WILL absolutely increase your score potential.



Scott S

Now that's some good advice right there!!!

 

[oldsparky]

Also paying CLOSE attention to your D.O.P.E. data of what the hold over is beyond the minimum range your scope says it @ is. Fitting both hold overs of min and max @ distance targets distance could be at is a tactic experienced shooters use.

When you range a target 40 and under you generally have a solid distance. If further targets are not that accurate STOP AIMING at the middle of the KZ and buy yourself some fudging for further distance than ranged by holding over a tad more. * For when at distances you KNOW won't be over shot ( Going High ) if you are aiming CENTER of KZ your only giving yourself 1/2 the KZ size to drop the pellet into !!!! This in CLOSE as well FAR !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Understanding our pellets are traveling upward until at flight apex ( Ideal zero range ) so close shots if missed will generally be 6:00 misses and Not 12:00.

Same for the far shots, Once past your zero range pellets are falling lower with increasing distance and more times than not folks range a tad short of actual & again misses trend to fall LOW and not high.

Keeping shots inside your zero range and past your zero shot into the upper 1/3 to 1/4 of a KZ hole and WITH PRACTICE and Knowing your rifle WILL absolutely increase your score potential.



Scott S

Thanks again Scott. You have given me sound advice in the past and this sounds very good again. I will start giving this a go!

 

[Arzrover]

And SPOT YOUR SHOTS as much as possible. If you pay attention to the clutter on the paddle and face, you can generally see the most recent overlaid on the clutter. This info is quite valuable.

Also, calibrating your ranging to the near or far side of the clear window and staying consistent with it will give much better results.

Bob

 

[AirShot]

Most scopes do not range well at 16x power, that is the reason for having a 32x power magnification scope. But in hunter class you are limited to 16x power so we have to actually be able to guess at ranges. That was the idea when hunter class was formed. There were a lot of folks that actually had the ability to estimate the distance to there target, and most all the hunter classvtaegets were full size kz at distances beyond 35-40 yds. When it began we never used kz smaller than 3/4" and those were for close up shots within 20 yds or less. Today clubs are increasing the challenge by incorporating smaller kz at all distances so ranging becomes more critical. Back when hunter started we used 3 targets per lane and two were marked for hunter as these were bigger kz. The other target was more difficult for the unlimited classes and one of the hunter targets was also used for unlimited class. Not sure how theey place them today but I understand things have changed over the years!! You might consider going with a Leupold scope as they can be modified after you purchase them, whether changing reticule type, adding mildots or anything else you might need. Not all scope mfgrs offer custom mods and a lifetime warranty regardless who the owner is like Leupold does. My scopes are over 30 yrs old and never an issue

 

[Motorhead]

Most scopes do not range well at 16x power, that is the reason for having a 32x power magnification scope. But in hunter class you are limited to 16x power so we have to actually be able to guess at ranges. That was the idea when hunter class was formed. There were a lot of folks that actually had the ability to estimate the distance to there target, and most all the hunter classvtaegets were full size kz at distances beyond 35-40 yds. When it began we never used kz smaller than 3/4" and those were for close up shots within 20 yds or less. Today clubs are increasing the challenge by incorporating smaller kz at all distances so ranging becomes more critical. Back when hunter started we used 3 targets per lane and two were marked for hunter as these were bigger kz. The other target was more difficult for the unlimited classes and one of the hunter targets was also used for unlimited class. Not sure how theey place them today but I understand things have changed over the years!! You might consider going with a Leupold scope as they can be modified after you purchase them, whether changing reticule type, adding mildots or anything else you might need. Not all scope mfgrs offer custom mods and a lifetime warranty regardless who the owner is like Leupold does. My scopes are over 30 yrs old and never an issue

I does not appear or sound as if you actually shoot air gun field target in recent years ?



So I'll stop right there.

Please correct me / us if this statement is incorrect.

 

[John "spysir" Blount]

Most scopes do not range well at 16x power, that is the reason for having a 32x power magnification scope. But in hunter class you are limited to 16x power so we have to actually be able to guess at ranges. That was the idea when hunter class was formed. There were a lot of folks that actually had the ability to estimate the distance to there target, and most all the hunter classvtaegets were full size kz at distances beyond 35-40 yds. When it began we never used kz smaller than 3/4" and those were for close up shots within 20 yds or less. Today clubs are increasing the challenge by incorporating smaller kz at all distances so ranging becomes more critical. Back when hunter started we used 3 targets per lane and two were marked for hunter as these were bigger kz. The other target was more difficult for the unlimited classes and one of the hunter targets was also used for unlimited class. Not sure how theey place them today but I understand things have changed over the years!! You might consider going with a Leupold scope as they can be modified after you purchase them, whether changing reticule type, adding mildots or anything else you might need. Not all scope mfgrs offer custom mods and a lifetime warranty regardless who the owner is like Leupold does. My scopes are over 30 yrs old and never an issue

I does not appear or sound as if you actually shoot air gun field target in recent years ?



So I'll stop right there.

Please correct me / us if this statement is incorrect.

Sounds like the Playground of Champion's to me. 1st time I went with my 22fpe .22 Squirrel rig w/4x I heard this "was" but now -back then- 1 point face plate and 2 point for a KZ for newbies. Roz's has a firm "you've got to be nice to new folks so they'll have fun and keep coming back" policy Turned out we shot outdated scoring as our squad partner had 1st time I went with my 22fpe .22 Squirrel rig w/4x. Heck I shot at Roz's for several years before the 1st Nationals and had NO idea ANY club had smaller than 1" KZ's and never saw less than 60 shots.

Great memories and score or not it certainly would be fun to shoot some FT again there (anywhere).

John

 

[dan_house]

Learn to use the reticle to range find with, also known as bracketing. Its not hard, but you'll need to know some basic sizes of items found on an FT course (cinder blocks, dimensional lumber ....) and the particulars of your reticle, which the manual should have. put that info on your dope sheet and yer good. Be advised that, that it wont be perfect, but still better than guessing if that targets is 49, or 53 yards away..... can also use that technique to confirm your range estimate taken other ways....

 

[AirShot]

Yes it has been a few years since I have shot FT, thought I had mentioned thst, if not I stand corrected. Retired about 10 years back due to health issues but still try to follow along by reading as much as I can. While the rules have changed over the years, I still have over 20 years of FT experience with many state and regional trophys. Most of my comnents were refered to as " when hunter class started" often in life we find going back to the begining or back to basics is a good place to start. 

 

[Therealld]

And SPOT YOUR SHOTS as much as possible. If you pay attention to the clutter on the paddle and face, you can generally see the most recent overlaid on the clutter. This info is quite valuable.

Also, calibrating your ranging to the near or far side of the clear window and staying consistent with it will give much better results.

Bob

Bobby,

Yours is the best advice so far. Since it IS difficult to range effectively (esp in hunter with only 16X), its best to use all available hints on the long ones! Studying the faceplate and KZ hit patterns should go on while ranging! Heck, the wind effect hit/miss pattern is prolly more important than the ranging clues!