RAPID AIR WEAPONS AND HUMA

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you would think thats true,,, but i keep getting wild chrono readings..one ,example ,855 858 839 860 848 854 843 857 839 ,when i shoot my FX products i get constant repetitive numbers ,no HUMA, 
that leads me to believe the chrono is good,,i ordered a RAW reg tester to further confirm my suspicions ,,im waiting on it ,,so if i need to replace the regulator ,i want to do it with a HUMA ,,IMHO,HUMA is the # 1 regulator ,that can be had HYNZIE
 
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"Hynzie"you would think thats true,,, but i keep getting wild chrono readings..one ,example ,855 858 839 860 848 854 843 857 839 ,when i shoot my FX products i get constant repetitive numbers ,no HUMA, 
that leads me to believe the chrono is good,,i ordered a RAW reg tester to further confirm my suspicions ,,im waiting on it ,,so if i need to replace the regulator ,i want to do it with a HUMA ,,IMHO,HUMA is the # 1 regulator ,that can be had HYNZIE
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Pat,

If you want to get to the bottom of those numbers, go through the pain of weighing out a string of like 25-30 pellets, write them down and shoot them in order. Mount you gun firmly and set the chrome firmly (about a yard away to the back window. Record velocity for each shot, next to the weights you had written down. You will see the velocities dip slightly with heavier pellets, go higher with lighter pellets. Calculate the energy and you will find the RAW is regulating the energy very, very tightly.

I noted the same thing you were mentioning when I first got my .25 cal 50 for setup (pre-conversion) and saw the results from the test described above. Once I had shot several, I could almost call the velocity based on the weight of the next pellet-it was that predictable.

Also, setting the chrony back to about a yard away helps the pellet to be fully stabilized after exiting the barrel. As noted by some of the gurus on here (Yrrah, etc), there are some funky aerodynamics that take place inches to a few feet from the pellet leaving the muzzle.

Hope that helps?


Sean
 
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I had a similar problem with my RAW HM1000x 30 cal. that I wanted to use for EBR last year. I called Martin and he had me take it to Mark Buchanan who lives in Mesa (Mark is no longer with RAW). When we got into Mesa I dropped off my gun to Mark and he fixed it in 15 minutes. As it turns out it was a lubrication issue with the hammer. After Mark cleaned and lightly lubed the hammer the variance was less than 7fps, and the shot count went up to about 45 per fill. It was that simple.

Below is the instruction that Martin sent me. Hope this helps.

For hammer.
Easiest way for you is to remove the two pins holding the trigger, they are 3mm, so a 1/8 pin punch will not
work.Then the hammer power screw can be undone, and slide everything out together holding the rifle vertical,
muzzle down, using your finger in where the trigger goes, try not to allow the springs to come out, other wise
you run the risk of the inertia weight and washers inside coming out, lube hammer with a synthetic motor oil,
then put back together, when the trigger goes back in, make sure the sear sits in the middle of the spring that
returns it, otherwise you will find the rifle will not cock.

Remember when screwing the bottle back on, you need the hammer cocked back to take tension away from the
valve, at no point dry fire the gun without air, you can bend the valve stem.

Regards
Martin
 
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ANY chance anybody knows if theres ever been a HUMA installed in a RAW THANKS MEN HYNZIE
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Hynzie:

RAW regulators are SUPERIOR than than HUMA...By far!

  1. If you are getting erratic velicities let me ask you some questions: Are you weighing your pellets?, and if you are, are you head sizing these weighted pellets?
  2. Have you cleaned and lubbed the hammer of this gun? and if so, what kind of lubricant did you use?
    [/LIST=1]

    Unless the regulator is creeping, those two points above are the main issues for erratic velocities in RAW guns...Don't mess around with hammer weights and stuff like that, if you do, you will worsen the problem...RAW guns are perfect the way they are shipped out of the factory and basically need: Good sized and weighed pellets and a clean and well lubricated hammer; some people don't lube the hammer, but rubbing 2 critical metal surfaces without lube = WEAR.

    Use a very light viscocity oil (oil for lubricating clocks is very good) and never use grease.

    Regards,

    AZ

 
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It seems that all regs are kinda made the same-a stack of belleville springs under tension. I spoke to Martin about this long ago and asked if it would be worthwhile putting the washers in a cartridge case tumbler to polish them. He said it wouldn't hurt, FWIW.

BTW, my TM1000 started having crazy velocity variations. Martin said to clean the hammer and the chamber it rides on. When I took out the hammer, it was pretty greasy. After cleaning, everything worked well. If you insist on lubing the hammer, use a very low viscosity lubricant and a very light coat.
 
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When I took out the hammer, it was pretty greasy. After cleaning, everything worked well. If you insist on lubing the hammer, use a very low viscosity lubricant and a very light coat.
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JPS2486:

Absolutely!...Given the very tight tolerances used in RAW guns, this is what causes 90% of the velocity inconsistencies...The other 10% is a dirty hammer chamber or using GREASE vs. very low viscocity oil (clock oil works very well as I mentioned in my reply above) and not weighing/head sizing pellets during the chrony test...

RAW regulators are one of the most precise and sturdiest current designs out there, I haven't tested nor seen anything more consistent and reliable; buy like ANY OTHER regulator, they are not meant to be adjusted up/down all the time...Ever since FX gave consumers access to adjusting the reg pressure very easily, people took it as "reg pressure needs to be constantly tweaked for most precision" and in the search of this holly grail they mess up their regulators and then complain about them failing...

Note: One friendly correction: Belleville washers work under COMPRESSION (not tension)

Best regards,

AZ


 
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I never dismantle the hammer on my RAW; I do not see too much the procedure it is necessary to remove the block of trigger to take it out?
RAW should follow FX AIRGUN's example for all videos.
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Diank:

You push 2 pins holding the trigger assembly and remove the entire trigger housing in 10 seconds...You then remove a single screw that will be visible after removing the trigger assembly as well as the screw for adjusting the hammer tension on the back of the action and you will have all the hammer/chamber expoed and ready to be cleaned/lubbed...No need for videos on RAW guns!...These RAW platforms are the simpliest and most reliable out there...Working on he valve you do it from the front of action above the air supply inlet by remiving the valve cap, the hammer mechanism has been explained and the regulator is just after th air inlet...THAT IS ALL!...

And if you set your regulator right without going back an forth-up and down in pressure, the regulator will not fail and would not have to be touched in YEARS...Don't be confused by the general idea that variations in velocity are always derived from a bad regulator and the same applies for precision....People mess around back and forth with the reg pressure trying to find precision...Wrong approach!...You set your regulator to get the power/velocity you want and then you LEAVE IT ALONE..Fine tune working on hammer force, pellets and other, but don't go back to the regulator.

Regards,

AZ
 
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