I have a 60 FPE .25 could I just drop in a .22 Barrel and probe and be good to go for a slug shooting .22? Would I have the same power level?
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RAW REPORT
- Thread starter Hynzie
- Start date
What’s the barrel diameter of the raw weapons? I’m thinking of trying to set my rifle up with a Donny suppressor.. the rifle is kind of loud.
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Howdy folks, just stopping by to say howdy and all is well......I like the ratsniper.25 slug just might give them a try, Neil’s been my slug supplier and always open to try someone else’s if they get good reviews.
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Somewhere earlier in the thread (and in another thread) I wrote and uploaded a manual for changing calibers. In there I mention how to swap the probe as well. In summary: the two tiny screws (1.5 mm allen head / hex) only get threaded in enough to be flush with the outer diameter of the probe. Before threading them in, the probe has to be pushed in against the spring so that the screws DO NOT tighten again the probe-there is a ledge that has to be pushed in beyond where the grub screws come through.
When properly done, the probe will move freely against the spring tension and not come out.
Sean
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Dear Sean,
In the new models either there are no tiny screws or if they are, they are lock tightened.
I think you , me and all new model users have to revisit again.
Regards,
Umair Bhaur
In the new models either there are no tiny screws or if they are, they are lock tightened.
I think you , me and all new model users have to revisit again.
Regards,
Umair Bhaur
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The design hasn’t changed-I’m certain of that. The issue you may be having is that the both the probe (silver part) and probe holder (black part) rotate. Take your fingers and rotate the black part to expose the screws. They may be hidden in the action currently-probably facing up and down. If you rotate the black part by 90 degrees they will be visible on either side of the action, they will then be accessible for you.
Two extremes of adjustment: if the screws aren’t in far enough, the will stick out of the black housing and interfere with the cocking operation-not allowing the bolt (black probe holder)to slide back into the action smoothly when cycling the bolt. On the other extreme, if the screws are tightened too much (or against the retaining lip on the silver probe) then they won’t allow the probe (silver part) to move freely within the probe holder.
If you’re still having trouble, take photos and post them so I can help you sort it out.
Sean
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A further point of clarification: the two grub screws in the probe holder are a little misleading: typically one would expect the screw to bottom out and then require some tightening torque to hold a clamp load. That is NOT the case with these two screws at all. These two screws function more as a ‘retaining ring’ for the probe to not come loose (the probe spring preloads the probe against thetwo probes screws), so they setve merely as a stopping point (in the forward-most position) for the probe to rest on.
I’m tempted to draw a diagram to show it better-let me nnow if that is needed...
I hope that helps with your understanding of how it functions?
Sean
I’m tempted to draw a diagram to show it better-let me nnow if that is needed...
I hope that helps with your understanding of how it functions?
Sean
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Dear Sean,
it will be a Great favour.
Still I feel that iin order to change calibee I would havehave to change the complete probe after dismantling the gun.
Please guide me
it will be a Great favour.
Still I feel that iin order to change calibee I would havehave to change the complete probe after dismantling the gun.
Please guide me
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You are correct: each caliber does require a matching probe.
This should answer quite a few of your questions: https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/caliber-conversion-process-raw-hm1000x-25-cal-to-30-cal/
Click the link in the first post in that thread and download the guide. Let me know if you have more questions after reviewing that document.
Sean
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Dear Sean,
I have gone through the referred document but it appears that the method of swapping of barrels is related to those old models that had adjustable probes.
I have gone through the referred document but it appears that the method of swapping of barrels is related to those old models that had adjustable probes.
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Ok, I was going by memory so i need to make a correction afyer inspecting Craig’s gun last night: the black probe does NOT rotate in the action, but the probe does (of course).
Craig’s gun shoots nicely!
Sean
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Please post photos of your guns. I just looked at Craig’s last night and it is the same as mine. I can assure you our are the very latest actions/guns from Martin. Your’s must be different somehow-inless there are different versions for international guns vs FAC / US models?
Sean
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Dear Sean,
Its great and easy to change.
I was trying to remove the white tiny screws that are in probe.
Now as advised I removed the grub screws that are in black cover of probe.
The probe came out apart.
Thank You.
Its great and easy to change.
I was trying to remove the white tiny screws that are in probe.
Now as advised I removed the grub screws that are in black cover of probe.
The probe came out apart.
Thank You.
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Excellent! Yes, just put the inner probe and spring back in-those are common to all calibers. You only need to change the ‘outer probe’ (The one with the tiny grub screws in it-which you do NOT tamper with). You may need to load those parts in from the front of the action to get them back jnto the bolt assembly-thats how I typically change the outer probe for caliber swaps."mubhaur"Dear Sean,
Its great and easy to change.
I was trying to remove the white tiny screws that are in probe.
Now as advised I removed the grub screws that are in black cover of probe.
The probe came out apart.
Thank You.
Glad this is working out for you-our designs are indeed the same, based on your photos.
Sean
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Glad you got it figured out I even learned something how about that, I have not messed with either of my RAWs yet so like I said...I learned something too. Thanks to both of you and I like pics hahaha.
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I am unable to understand that why RAW does not use the O ring sealing system for probe and breach.
While O rings are very easy to replace and the CAM of cocking lever will not need that much pressure while closing it.
While O rings are very easy to replace and the CAM of cocking lever will not need that much pressure while closing it.
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Orings fail, if the probe is properly adjusted the cocking lever is not hard. cleaning barrel without a internal oring is nicer too.
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