Other Received my Tequila pistol today

As the title says, I received my Tequila Gun, gun this evening. Only put 4 pellets thru it just to verify all is working from the trip. The packaging was a little light duty.

After a general inspection, the part to part fit-up is VERY nice. As good as any other high end gun on the market. The anodizing of each detail is a little off. Some parts have a light shine and some parts have a more flat finish. Not a huge difference, but it's notable.
The gun feels very solid. Slightly nose heavy, but all Govt. .45's are !

The cocking lever is solid, if not a little snug in the locked position. It's got two detent balls holding it in its closed position, so it takes a shove to open it. The way that it's designed is nice, in that, if you squint hard, the thumb lever looks like a hammer on the firearm version. A very simple cocking mechanism. Only a light mechanical advantage lever, so it's a tug to do the full cock. But the way that it's designed, you use both your first two fingers AND your thumb, so that helps.

The pressure gauge in PSI, yes, on the end of the air cylinder. That's fine with me being in PSI, I was born and raised in the USA, ! The gauge is only a 1/3d sweep face, so accuracy isn't it's long suit. The fill port protector sleeve is a full ring or sleeve. It rotates for port access. Won't fall off.

What you can see of the trigger, it's similar to the Govt. firearm, .45, solid in the frame/receiver. Very little unwanted movement. It is a two stage pull. I have not done any adjusting at this point. As unpacked, the first stage is short, but noticeable. it comes to a definite, second stage wall, and then a fairly nice release with little creep. The pull is a bit hard, though short, and not too objectionable. Even at just four shots tonight, it's easy to get use to. I'll probably do some adjusting to see if I can lighten the pull some. It's a straight back pull, (no rotation), just like on the firearm.

For you "safety snobs", the safety is done very nicely. It is pushed into the "fire" mode, by pushing on the firearms magazine release button on the right side. It's a solid feel, probably a heavy ball/spring assembly. Not exactly quiet, but VERY positive. The push to safety is a button head fastener just opposite of the release button. It's a stainless fastener with a red sleeve under it on the left side. Very obvious what condition the gun is in.

The gun has a Picatinny rail on the barrel sleeve. It's been machined down the center for, I assume some weight removal. I attached a Holosun HE508T with no problem. There is a short two tooth, Pic. rail on the bottom of the receiver/air cylinder. On one hand, it seems sorta like a waste. BUT, for a few dollars more there is a full length picatinny rail that attaches to the short rail on the gun. Flashlights, Lasers, and yeah, even bi-tripods !
Speaking of the barrel sleeve, there is a mitigator, muffler, suppressor, silencer, and I suppose yeah, a moderator, 1/2-20 adapter bolted to the sleeve. The gun comes with a nice thread protector.

The magazine is a BEAST. Its Daystate/BRKish looking in the basic design, but does not open. The body is heavy walled stainless steel. Don't know the what version of stainless. The spring is...well...a bit of a workout. You rotate the inner disc/drum, and drop the pellets onto the oval hole in the back side of the magazine. Simple enough. But yeah, the spring can hold up a garage door. Definitely takes a little work. But...it's very smooth in its action. IThe magazine is held in the receiver by two small detent balls on the back side. There is two rubber o-rings to keep it from rattling. The magazine goes in from the left to right until the two detent balls locate it solidly.

The gun comes with iron sights. They are somewhat interesting. No need for white paint...there's no place to put...the paint ! The rear sight has a hole in each wing, and the front sight has a single hole in it. Interesting. I suppose one could insert light collecting plastic into the holes if desired. The front sight folds down. I'd guess for some basic protection. There's a small magnet in the blade to hold it in position. The rear is height and windage adjustable. OR, both are removable if you like with a simple set screw, (no "grub screw" worms here) loosening.

The grip panels are very ice. Have a lot of character to them. Don't know what the wood is, but it's fairly dark. It "appears" as though that firearm grips will fit. The basic shape of the panels are just like a Govt. .45 panels. I haven't taken them off to verify yet. There is also an interesting, one piece, hollow, hex pattern, very light, 3D printed grip available. Pretty interesting part.

While the gun will come to you with various "tune's" adjusted before shipping, yes, there is a hammer spring screw just above the beaver tail. The factory tunes can be seen here -
1694933601755.png


That's about as deep as I've been into as of now. A few things that I want to verify and play with in the next couple of days, along with some shooting.
So far, so good. No major complaints

Pictures tomorrow

Mike

P.s. - no paper instructions as of now. The max. pressure is printed on the right side of the gun. No information about trigger adjustment.

MOD EDIT: Removed instigating comment towards @AirNGasman
 
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AirNgasman - You don't seem to like me or my comments, so you might want to turn away, move on...now !

As the title says, I received my Tequila Gun, gun this evening. Only put 4 pellets thru it just to verify all is working from the trip. The packaging was a little light duty.

After a general inspection, the part to part fit-up is VERY nice. As good as any other high end gun on the market. The anodizing of each detail is a little off. Some parts have a light shine and some parts have a more flat finish. Not a huge difference, but it's notable.
The gun feels very solid. Slightly nose heavy, but all Govt. .45's are !

The cocking lever is solid, if not a little snug in the locked position. It's got two detent balls holding it in its closed position, so it takes a shove to open it. The way that it's designed is nice, in that, if you squint hard, the thumb lever looks like a hammer on the firearm version. A very simple cocking mechanism. Only a light mechanical advantage lever, so it's a tug to do the full cock. But the way that it's designed, you use both your first two fingers AND your thumb, so that helps.

The pressure gauge in PSI, yes, on the end of the air cylinder. That's fine with me being in PSI, I was born and raised in the USA, ! The gauge is only a 1/3d sweep face, so accuracy isn't it's long suit. The fill port protector sleeve is a full ring or sleeve. It rotates for port access. Won't fall off.

What you can see of the trigger, it's similar to the Govt. firearm, .45, solid in the frame/receiver. Very little unwanted movement. It is a two stage pull. I have not done any adjusting at this point. As unpacked, the first stage is short, but noticeable. it comes to a definite, second stage wall, and then a fairly nice release with little creep. The pull is a bit hard, though short, and not too objectionable. Even at just four shots tonight, it's easy to get use to. I'll probably do some adjusting to see if I can lighten the pull some. It's a straight back pull, (no rotation), just like on the firearm.

For you "safety snobs", the safety is done very nicely. It is pushed into the "fire" mode, by pushing on the firearms magazine release button on the right side. It's a solid feel, probably a heavy ball/spring assembly. Not exactly quiet, but VERY positive. The push to safety is a button head fastener just opposite of the release button. It's a stainless fastener with a red sleeve under it on the left side. Very obvious what condition the gun is in.

The gun has a Picatinny rail on the barrel sleeve. It's been machined down the center for, I assume some weight removal. I attached a Holosun HE508T with no problem. There is a short two tooth, Pic. rail on the bottom of the receiver/air cylinder. On one hand, it seems sorta like a waste. BUT, for a few dollars more there is a full length picatinny rail that attaches to the short rail on the gun. Flashlights, Lasers, and yeah, even bi-tripods !
Speaking of the barrel sleeve, there is a mitigator, muffler, suppressor, silencer, and I suppose yeah, a moderator, 1/2-20 adapter bolted to the sleeve. The gun comes with a nice thread protector.

The magazine is a BEAST. Its Daystate/BRKish looking in the basic design, but does not open. The body is heavy walled stainless steel. Don't know the what version of stainless. The spring is...well...a bit of a workout. You rotate the inner disc/drum, and drop the pellets onto the oval hole in the back side of the magazine. Simple enough. But yeah, the spring can hold up a garage door. Definitely takes a little work. But...it's very smooth in its action. IThe magazine is held in the receiver by two small detent balls on the back side. There is two rubber o-rings to keep it from rattling. The magazine goes in from the left to right until the two detent balls locate it solidly.

The gun comes with iron sights. They are somewhat interesting. No need for white paint...there's no place to put...the paint ! The rear sight has a hole in each wing, and the front sight has a single hole in it. Interesting. I suppose one could insert light collecting plastic into the holes if desired. The front sight folds down. I'd guess for some basic protection. There's a small magnet in the blade to hold it in position. The rear is height and windage adjustable. OR, both are removable if you like with a simple set screw, (no "grub screw" worms here) loosening.

The grip panels are very ice. Have a lot of character to them. Don't know what the wood is, but it's fairly dark. It "appears" as though that firearm grips will fit. The basic shape of the panels are just like a Govt. .45 panels. I haven't taken them off to verify yet. There is also an interesting, one piece, hollow, hex pattern, very light, 3D printed grip available. Pretty interesting part.

While the gun will come to you with various "tune's" adjusted before shipping, yes, there is a hammer spring screw just above the beaver tail. The factory tunes can be seen here -
View attachment 389389

That's about as deep as I've been into as of now. A few things that I want to verify and play with in the next couple of days, along with some shooting.
So far, so good. No major complaints

Pictures tomorrow

Mike

P.s. - no paper instructions as of now. The max. pressure is printed on the right side of the gun. No information about trigger adjustment.
"Received my Tequila pistol today", does that mean you had a few to many Tequilas when you ordered it?😁😁
 
"Received my Tequila pistol today", does that mean you had a few to many Tequilas when you ordered it?😁😁
Don't understand your question.

im also clueless as to what a tequila pistol is lol
See the pistol section !


Got it ?
 
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Two things.

One error -
The trigger DOES rotate. It just "feels" like it moves in a straight line. It's total movement is fairly short, and the pivot diameter center is larger than most triggers, for a more straight "feeling" trigger movement.

One addition -
Forgot to note, for all the stainless steel fastener folks, yes, all of the fasteners are polished stainless steel. No rusted fasteners or adjusting set screws here.

Did a little trigger adjusting, and sighted in my Holosun sight. The gun is very easy to shoot. Still needs a little more adjusting. There's a lot of screws to play with ! I'm going to do some side by side shooting with my AP16. Do a little comparison.

Trigger -
When pulling the trigger, uncocked, and unloaded, it moves a longer distance than when cocked and loaded. When unloaded, it's long pull's got a pretty gritty feeling.
But when cocked and loaded, the pull distance is much shorter, and the gritty feeling is not present, or feelable.
Looks like something to look into, maybe ?

Mike
 
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Mine is suppose to be in on Tues Wed I've never shot a 1911, that I can remember, so this promises to be interesting. Anxious to see what it does at 100 yards. :cool:
Do you lie more angled grip angle, or a more vertical angle ?
Glock firearm, more angled. Crossman, Benjamin, (some) Beeman, more angled.
1911, Sig Sauer, more vertical. Ataman AP16, Weihrauch, more vertical.

The Tequila Gun, more vertical.

Mike
 
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Is it just my eyes or is the grip frame on the Tequila slightly more vertical than the ap16?

Btw that skeleton grip is badass
On one hand, I haven't checked the actual grip angle in the Tequila Guns solid grip frame. On the other hand, I know that the Tequila Guns wood grip panels interchange nicely, from the Tequila Gun to an actual, 1950's, Government, .45.

I think the angle difference look, is just the camera angle.

Mike
 
Trigger talk -

I dug into the trigger mechanism this afternoon. My desire was to lighten the trigger pull a little. That only...sorta...happened !

The working parts of the trigger are very simple. It's highly adjustable...EXCEPT for the actual trigger pull.

As one guy that I know, he calls the first stage of a (all) dual stage triggers..."slop". Well, in this gun it is...actually slop. There "is" first stage adjustment, but it is not spring loaded. So...it is slop ! That's not as bad as it sounds, as for however the trigger is balanced, it seems to go forward went unloaded, so when you touch the trigger lightly, there is, actual rearward movement. It's just loose, not spring loaded. And it can be increased or decreased, and adjusted down to a single stage if you like.
Note - with a VERY short spring, you may be able to fashion an actual "first stage" movement.

The second stage wall, is firm and obvious. The second stage wall "location" is adjustable. That is, the trigger can be adjusted fore and aft to suit your desire. The "load" on the second stage wall is also adjustable. There are two "sear" springs that are load adjustable to take care of that.

Noting the above about, lightening the trigger pull...is "sort of", taken care by other adjustments. I say "sort of", because you can't actually change the spring load. More on that later. BUT, with adjusting the two sear spring loads, and the trigger "over travel" stop adjustment, the trigger actually feels fairly light !
When everything is well adjusted, you pull the trigger to the wall...then just squeeze. The movement of the trigger is so slight (short), that it sort of fools you into thinking that it's a...light pull !

Like I noted, the trigger, over travel, is adjustable, the forward position, is adjustable, the trigger rear stop, (wall location) is adjustable, as is the two sear springs (loads), one on each sear half.

Like I say, the mechanism is oddly simple, highly adjustable (lots of adjusting screws).

BUT, as noted the "actual" trigger pull spring is NOT adjustable. At least not without some creative thinking, and rework. I think it can be reworked, but after getting the other adjustments done, the actual "pull" isn't that bad.
No, it'll never be an Olympic class trigger, but it's not that bad either.

The trigger...spring .
The trigger "spring" is a store bought, spring loaded plunger. The actual spring is inside of the body of the plunger, and non-adjustable. It's a steel plunger, with a full round tip that takes care of the rearward trigger movement.
You can move the plunger "assembly" fore and aft, but this does nothing but...to change the triggers position for the second stage wall / stop.

As I've said, there is so little, actual trigger movement to release the sear, when adjusted well, the heaviness of the spring in the plunger assembly is sort of disguised.

And for you guys that like to polish trigger mechanisms..! There ISN'T...much to polish ! Two VERY...small surfaces that have machined rubbing surfaces, so they are pretty smooth already, and you feel NO...creep at the sear disengagement !!

Well. so much for the trigger mechanism.
Any questions, I'll try to answer them.

I didn't take any pictures, but the drawing in the manual is very accurate and easy to understand.

Mike
 
Trigger talk -

I dug into the trigger mechanism this afternoon. My desire was to lighten the trigger pull a little. That only...sorta...happened !

The working parts of the trigger are very simple. It's highly adjustable...EXCEPT for the actual trigger pull.

As one guy that I know, he calls the first stage of a (all) dual stage triggers..."slop". Well, in this gun it is...actually slop. There "is" first stage adjustment, but it is not spring loaded. So...it is slop ! That's not as bad as it sounds, as for however the trigger is balanced, it seems to go forward went unloaded, so when you touch the trigger lightly, there is, actual rearward movement. It's just loose, not spring loaded. And it can be increased or decreased, and adjusted down to a single stage if you like.
Note - with a VERY short spring, you may be able to fashion an actual "first stage" movement.

The second stage wall, is firm and obvious. The second stage wall "location" is adjustable. That is, the trigger can be adjusted fore and aft to suit your desire. The "load" on the second stage wall is also adjustable. There are two "sear" springs that are load adjustable to take care of that.

Noting the above about, lightening the trigger pull...is "sort of", taken care by other adjustments. I say "sort of", because you can't actually change the spring load. More on that later. BUT, with adjusting the two sear spring loads, and the trigger "over travel" stop adjustment, the trigger actually feels fairly light !
When everything is well adjusted, you pull the trigger to the wall...then just squeeze. The movement of the trigger is so slight (short), that it sort of fools you into thinking that it's a...light pull !

Like I noted, the trigger, over travel, is adjustable, the forward position, is adjustable, the trigger rear stop, (wall location) is adjustable, as is the two sear springs (loads), one on each sear half.

Like I say, the mechanism is oddly simple, highly adjustable (lots of adjusting screws).

BUT, as noted the "actual" trigger pull spring is NOT adjustable. At least not without some creative thinking, and rework. I think it can be reworked, but after getting the other adjustments done, the actual "pull" isn't that bad.
No, it'll never be an Olympic class trigger, but it's not that bad either.

The trigger...spring .
The trigger "spring" is a store bought, spring loaded plunger. The actual spring is inside of the body of the plunger, and non-adjustable. It's a steel plunger, with a full round tip that takes care of the rearward trigger movement.
You can move the plunger "assembly" fore and aft, but this does nothing but...to change the triggers position for the second stage wall / stop.

As I've said, there is so little, actual trigger movement to release the sear, when adjusted well, the heaviness of the spring in the plunger assembly is sort of disguised.

And for you guys that like to polish trigger mechanisms..! There ISN'T...much to polish ! Two VERY...small surfaces that have machined rubbing surfaces, so they are pretty smooth already, and you feel NO...creep at the sear disengagement !!

Well. so much for the trigger mechanism.
Any questions, I'll try to answer them.

I didn't take any pictures, but the drawing in the manual is very accurate and easy to understand.

Mike
Hmmmm, depending on the size of the 'plunger' there may be an adjustable one available, I've seen them pretty darn small.

I think we're going to need pictures, then it'll turn into a manual, our friend may toss in another couple of magazines.

Oh were the grips part of the deal or an extra? Those are SWEET!!
 
Hmmmm, depending on the size of the 'plunger' there may be an adjustable one available, I've seen them pretty darn small.

I think we're going to need pictures, then it'll turn into a manual, our friend may toss in another couple of magazines.

Oh were the grips part of the deal or an extra? Those are SWEET!!
Both myself and Alfonso have looked for a lighter springed plunger. There's a lot of different plungers out there, but I haven't found any spring load info. Didn't even think of an adjustable one.
On the other hand, like my note says in the above post. The way that the trigger mechanism is designed, once you get all adjustments done up, add a little oil to...ALL (including the plunger!) sliding/moving/rotating parts, the trigger is actually not bad at all. VERY little creep, still working on that with mine.
With the overtravel set properly, you just pull... The trigger almost...releases AND hit's that stop at the same time. Like I said, It's not Olympic quality, but there IS much worse on the market !

Free magazines...NOT likely. Those are probably the most expensive magazines to manufacture in the airgun world !

Long story ! He's actually doing a little redesign on the grips. I think they will be available for purchase. You'll have to contact Alfonso for the cost, and availability .
Yeah, they weight about...nothing !

Hope that helps.

Mike
 
Both myself and Alfonso have looked for a lighter springed plunger. There's a lot of different plungers out there, but I haven't found any spring load info. Didn't even think of an adjustable one.
On the other hand, like my note says in the above post. The way that the trigger mechanism is designed, once you get all adjustments done up, add a little oil to...ALL (including the plunger!) sliding/moving/rotating parts, the trigger is actually not bad at all. VERY little creep, still working on that with mine.
With the overtravel set properly, you just pull... The trigger almost...releases AND hit's that stop at the same time. Like I said, It's not Olympic quality, but there IS much worse on the market !

Free magazines...NOT likely. Those are probably the most expensive magazines to manufacture in the airgun world !

Long story ! He's actually doing a little redesign on the grips. I think they will be available for purchase. You'll have to contact Alfonso for the cost, and availability .
Yeah, they weight about...nothing !

Hope that helps.

Mike
Yeah there are adjustable detents, issue is, IF they can be gotten small/short enough. I remember they were moderately long, been a few decades. I think it's just a matter of some adjustment or even deleting one.

I haven't gotten to the cocking yet, still early, I'm going to guess you access the detents, which you said come from the bottom, through the grips? I'm trying not to get ahead of myself. For lube, I'm a huge fan of Mobile 1 and Tri-flow.
 
Hog -

Unfortunately...no !
The trigger plunger is buried deep in the cavity of the receiver.
You need to -

1 - Remove the access plate on the right side. One screw at the lower, rear position of the plate. The plate is snug on the receiver body, go slow.

2 - Remove the single screw on the left side, of the safety. Remove the screw and red sleeve. No springs to worry about.

3 - Remove the two screws that adjust the long spring tension of the two halves of the sear (up, from the bottom). Measure the screw location in the block to insure you return them back to their original location, during reassembly.
ON THE OTHER HAND... To help lighten the trigger pull, these screws actually only need a light load on their respective springs ! A couple of turns INTO the spring, should get you close.

4 - The single screw at the bottom of the block that the springs are housed in, remove that.

5 - Carefully, remove the block. The springs will be under a light tension, DON'T lose them. Do not remove the sear pieces from the receiver.

6 - Now...you have access to the trigger plunger, within the block that you just removed. Use care. Mine is unmovable !!! It will not turn !

I gave up Tri-Flow many, many years ago, while still shooting firearms. Don't like lubricant's that you have to shake before use. Plus, Tri-Flow has Teflon in it as it's main source of lube. Teflon is a low pressure lube. Add much load, and it's lubricating properties are sheard away. People that have any sort of clue, don't use it in their cars either. What it was originally designed for. Well, that and WAY back, aircraft engines. And that's a BIG no-no there too for many years.

I use Mobile 1 and Valvoline Racing oil, specifically, in my cars and bikes, hadn't thought of using it on my guns ! No reason that I can think of why it wouldn't work ok.

Mike
 
Hog -

Unfortunately...no !
The trigger plunger is buried deep in the cavity of the receiver.
You need to -

1 - Remove the access plate on the right side. One screw at the lower, rear position of the plate. The plate is snug on the receiver body, go slow.

2 - Remove the single screw on the left side, of the safety. Remove the screw and red sleeve. No springs to worry about.

3 - Remove the two screws that adjust the long spring tension of the two halves of the sear (up, from the bottom). Measure the screw location in the block to insure you return them back to their original location, during reassembly.
ON THE OTHER HAND... To help lighten the trigger pull, these screws actually only need a light load on their respective springs ! A couple of turns INTO the spring, should get you close.

4 - The single screw at the bottom of the block that the springs are housed in, remove that.

5 - Carefully, remove the block. The springs will be under a light tension, DON'T lose them. Do not remove the sear pieces from the receiver.

6 - Now...you have access to the trigger plunger, within the block that you just removed. Use care. Mine is unmovable !!! It will not turn !

I gave up Tri-Flow many, many years ago, while still shooting firearms. Don't like lubricant's that you have to shake before use. Plus, Tri-Flow has Teflon in it as it's main source of lube. Teflon is a low pressure lube. Add much load, and it's lubricating properties are sheard away. People that have any sort of clue, don't use it in their cars either. What it was originally designed for. Well, that and WAY back, aircraft engines. And that's a BIG no-no there too for many years.

I use Mobile 1 and Valvoline Racing oil, specifically, in my cars and bikes, hadn't thought of using it on my guns ! No reason that I can think of why it wouldn't work ok.

Mike
I use M1 in my pew-pews, works great on the BCG, no issues to date, caveat not running though dozens of mags one after the other. YMMV. The TF works great on little rotating things, if you need some quick loosening, for longer wearing it's always M1. I've got embroidery machines 20 years old, millions upon millions of stitches and they are as quiet today as when they were new, well actually in the case of two of them...quieter.
 
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Do you lie more angled grip angle, or a more vertical angle ?
Glock firearm, more angled. Crossman, Benjamin, (some) Beeman, more angled.
1911, Sig Sauer, more vertical. Ataman AP16, Weihrauch, more vertical.

The Tequila Gun, more vertical.

Mike
I do Springfield Xd's, that said i did receive mine, and up front I'm an IDIOT, there that is out of the way. For me without the manual the learning curve was steep and I thought I'd watched the video's our friend had posted but I must have missed something. I did have a technical issue that I'm not going into, possibly a fault, probably IDIOT error. Our friend is sending me a new one and the old one is on its way back as I type. Getting some cool printed grips, Mucho Gracias Xolotl

Fit and finish was excellent, I didn't see any significant difference between the anodizing. it's very light , surprisingly so. The holes in the sights that MikeVV do aid in sighting but it would be cool to put some red fiber on the rear and some green on the front. Of course they aren't setup for them, they are just holes. Hopefully 1mm, .040".
 
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