Recognize this unbranded PCP compressor sold under a brand name? Reliability?

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Hey guys,

So I received my "Spritech" orange compressor 2 weeks ago off Amazon and used it for the first time yesterday at the range, twice with no issues :) I have a 2 questions about this compressor if anyone can share from personal experience:

1. A gentleman at the range stated that when filling his gun with his YongHeng, in order to extend his compressor's "life", once the gun is full, he usually bleeds the air while the compressor is STILL running - then he shuts the compressor off. By doing so, he's making the "turn-off stage" easier on the piston of compressor (instead of hitting the "compressor" button which will turn it off and then bleeding out the air). He compared this to driving a car say, 80mph, and then soddenly turning off the engine at once rather than hitting the breaks, slowing down, coming to a full stop then turning off the engine. It does make since to me, just wondering if anyone has ever tried that with this or with a different comparable compressor?

2. Also, since this is an oil-less/waterless compressor and regardless of the manual, what is the max temperature which you'd turn off this compressor at to prevent early failure in C or F? (I will use silicon oil moving forward, just curious about a recommended max temp for this type of compressors in your opinion:)

Thanks a lot to anyone able to share!

Ari
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I have a version of this from R&L Airguns. It works. Answer to #2 is simple.......keep as cool as possible, to the extreme........ in air conditioned, dry room. 
 
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MainJim, may i ask you more about your Tuxing? From what i see, they seem little better built. how many hrs do you have on it? any problems? I fill my .25 avenger to 4300 psi. would you buy another if it came to be? My GX E CS3 blowing oil out of moister tube just after 3 weeks, its a sealed unit .they said it could handle 4500 psi.
 
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An update.

I have used the compressor purchased from Vevor 4 times, and after the 3rd fill, I turned it upside down and using my new oil squeeze bottle with the 1 1/2 inch needle, dribbled some silicon oil into the inlet filter while the compressor was running.

A few days later, I filled my Avenger to about 3800 psi without any problems. I have to believe that the oil made it into the compressor, lubrication it, and will extend its life. 

My plan is to oil it about every 4-5 uses. It can't hurt to do this, as any excess oil will be discharged through the open pressure relief valve during this operation. 
 
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Bleeding pressure from compressor befor turning off also empties water from comprssion cylinders. That way you don't leave the cylinders humid. It allows them to come back to room temperature while being ventilated. Good idea on all compressors. My industrial compressor for my machine shop does that. Has a 2 minute automatic shutdown cycle.
 
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Anyone who used this type of compressor: what is the temperature range at which you must shut it off to allow for it to cool off? On Amazon, with a similar product, the seller said 85C and one user said 60C. Anyone using an external larger fan with it, or modified the internal fan(s)?

I am thinking about adding in a simple thermistor to cut off the unit instead of trying to time it with each run. That way it should cool off when it needs it and will start up again when it's already at the correct temperature.
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You know if you have the capabilityto make something like this then you can still make something like this work by just adding a T and high pressure electric solenoid to release the pressure in the output line when the thermistor cuts off the power. When temperature comes back down there is no pressure in the line and the valve is automatically shut because the temp is lower. Compressor starts without dead heading and no harm.



Just make sure the line down stream has a one way valve otherwise you will lose all your air.







Allen
 
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In China many manufacturers will use the same sources for the guts and maybe add a different enclosure though they usually just go with a different color. What matters is the support provided in the USA if it breaks down. That is where there is wide variation as someone can order 4 units froma source on Alibaba and have them shipped to the USA and it can often be some guy working out of his garage. They may shut down their business in 6-12 months and no longer provide any support. If they do not have a street address and a phone number to call then I would not buy from them. When you pay $200 more for a compressor at a airgun or tank dealer you are paying for the additional support they provide if there is a problem.
 
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In China many manufacturers will use the same sources for the guts and maybe add a different enclosure though they usually just go with a different color. What matters is the support provided in the USA if it breaks down. That is where there is wide variation as someone can order 4 units froma source on Alibaba and have them shipped to the USA and it can often be some guy working out of his garage. They may shut down their business in 6-12 months and no longer provide any support. If they do not have a street address and a phone number to call then I would not buy from them. When you pay $200 more for a compressor at a airgun or tank dealer you are paying for the additional support they provide if there is a problem.
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Valid points. With these Chinese units the extra money between the unit directly from China or Ebay or Amazon is in the warranty offered by a US dealer/seller. Otherwise you are on your own. And that warranty better be from a reputable seller not a some fly-by-night operation. 
 
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I just visited the Aliexpress web site, and found that they have everything you would want to overhaul my air cooled 12v compressor. I ordered a kit with all the parts needed including new check valves, which came to $8.90 including shipping to me in California.

Everything used in the video Ari posted above appears to be included. 

Estimated arrival date is August 16th. 

I don't need it yet, but for $8.90, it seems like something worth having on hand just in case. 


 
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Great links and info @AriPerklov and @d-cuttler. I am in the same shoes, just got my unbranded unwarrantied compressor. 

One concern to anyone who can answer: how effective is the intake and outlet moisture/contaminants removal? With my old-style Shoebox I was able to add a huge efficient laboratory-grade air-dryer to the intake. The one with the color changing silica that you just throw in the toaster and will "dry" from pink to blue. Any options on the intake side? Also, the high-pressure outlet filter seems really small. Not like one can easily add on a more efficient 4500 psi filter. I know that at 3000-45000 psi the compressed air should not have much of any moisture in it anymore, but that takes my back to the question about the inlet filter then. 
 
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Anyone who used this type of compressor: what is the temperature range at which you must shut it off to allow for it to cool off? On Amazon, with a similar product, the seller said 85C and one user said 60C. Anyone using an external larger fan with it, or modified the internal fan(s)?

I am thinking about adding in a simple thermistor to cut off the unit instead of trying to time it with each run. That way it should cool off when it needs it and will start up again when it's already at the correct temperature.
Click to expand...

You know if you have the capabilityto make something like this then you can still make something like this work by just adding a T and high pressure electric solenoid to release the pressure in the output line when the thermistor cuts off the power. When temperature comes back down there is no pressure in the line and the valve is automatically shut because the temp is lower. Compressor starts without dead heading and no harm.



Just make sure the line down stream has a one way valve otherwise you will lose all your air.







Allen
Click to expand...

Just noticed your great suggestion. I was not getting email notifications for several days it seems from any AGN threads. Your suggestion would work great and is the right thing to do because it takes care of the pressure-issue (dead-heading). But I am afraid that finding a 4500 psi rated solenoid would be hard. I have several small pressure sensors rated 4500psi, but a proper voltage and pressure rated solenoid valve is another animal. 

But I see your point about the pressure remaining in the lines being an issue. So the next best option using a thermistor would be to set an alarm-buzzer when it approaches a too high-temperature thus giving the operator a chance to shut it down properly (open bleed valves, etc.) If the operator does not respond and the temperature still climbs to a dangerous level. then the thermistor-circuit would just shut down the unit and lock it out (will not allow auto-restart).

(FYI: they use inexpensive (25 cents- $1) thermistors at 10KOhm -30 C- 70C (industry standard) in almost all thermostats and temperature sensors)

The below circuit is just an illustration. The two different temperature setpoint would be better done instead of potentiometer(s) by using a simple MCU (i.e Arduino) for ease of control.

Heat-sensor-circuit-1.1627172127.png

 
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Well, fe7565 this is some next level technical knowledge :)

For a more "simple" solution to make things less complicated, this is what I (and many others) did:

I bought this PCP Oil Water Separator filter that is very robust and well made for $58 which is a multi-chamber setup (see photos) consisting of activated charcoal and some sort of obscure beads (Amazon listing says "secondary filtration" without specifying what those beads actually are...) so I discarded of the beads and replaced them with 13X molecular sieve (AKA Zeolite) desiccant. I will later on try Silica Gel Desiccant..which I'll put in between shortened layers/sections of the cotton filters. Traditional silica desiccant absorbs water slowly…the rate at which air moves through in a compressor doesn't allow sufficient time for it to do its job properly. Whereas molecular sieve strains out water molecules as the air is pushed through.
The 13X is a multiple purpose, highly porous, high capacity alkali metal alumino-silicate in the spherical form. It is the sodium form of the Type X crystal structure with pore diameters of approximately 10Å. It can adsorb all molecules that can be adsorbed by 3A, 4A, and 5A molecular sieve. Type 13X molecular sieve can also adsorb molecules such as aromatics and branched-chain hydrocarbons, which have large critical diameters.
as long as you're inspecting the filter body, caps, and threads when checking the 3X molecular sieve every ten or fifteen operational hours, it should be safe.

I fill my red wolf from 130-250 bar in approx 15 mins (filter adds +2 mins or so). Temp doesn't go above 37-38C. I do feel that the pressure is higher when unscrewing the bleed valve btw. This setup works great and for sure provides an added filtration/protection to the process.

11.1627195078.png

 
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I'm sorry to hear that your hose was faulty. My uncle was sold a brand new Volvo once that turned out to have bad breaks, doesn't mean all Volvos are bad. This filter particular doesn't come with a hose. For the additional hose I use the one that came with my MK5 Hill pump which I trust. Ppl who got this 12V compressor are already using the small golden fitter that comes with it with no issues, so I'm thinking adding a heavy duty filter that is X2.5 more robust (thicker, heavier and has more threads on the end caps) with a proven quality hose and pre could upgrade this set up. I could also leave the small golden filter that comes with the compressor aside and only use the big one instead. Time will tell :)
 
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