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Recommendation for 22 mod - buy once, cry once?

I have a weihrach hw100 and it performs very well - better than my dFL ronin IMO... now I'm wondering if the hugget is even better? If so which one if money is no object?
TLDR; Those Weihrauch moderators are as good as it gets. Throwing a couple of hundred bucks at a Hugget (which is about as good as it gets also) isn't going to buy you anything remotely like $100.00 of improvement, if any at all. Mind you they are fine moderators.

I've been building and testing moderators since the end of March this year. I don't really know how many I've built but I put about 30 into a trash bag yesterday and took them to the dump. Mind you these were test units so "no frills". Each set varied something so that I could test that attribute. I also had a number of members here shooting them and giving me feedback.

During that time I had two vendor moderators which REALLY stood out, head and shoulders, above any others. One was the moderator which came with my HW110 and one was the moderator which came on my Diana Stormrider. So I copied them and then IMPROVED on them. I did actually manage to improve on both them but not by enough to tell the vendor, "you can do it better this way" because it was clear from the units themselves that the vendor already knew and chose to do it the way they did to reduce manufacturing costs.

You MIGHT find one that improves on the stock moderator if you spend enough money, but I doubt it to be honest.
 
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Oldspook, I really appreciate your response and the share... I might just get another weihrach hw100 and just use a quick-disconnect to make the pkg compact for backpacking... right now I've done this with my dream tac w 300mm 22 barrel which has the huma qd mount and the weihrach... will probably duplicate this setup on another compact 22... for my leshiy 2 I'm going to compare an STO in stock 350mm shroud w threaded adapter end vs jack k shroud with a mod50 and compare each then with a behemoth... that rig will also run qd mount
 
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personally i think its pointless to chase ultimate sound reduction with tunnel vision on the moderator, other gun noise is more important .. get that adressed and any quality mod will do the trick with only minor variation switching betwixt different ones ..
Don't agree or disagree.. have addressed the hammer slap and action so already there but thanks

Also... there is a dramatic difference in the performance of mods - my stock 25 ronin isn't anywhere near as quiet as the weihrach, in terms of human ears noticing both report and bark
 
Don't agree or disagree.. have addressed the hammer slap and action so already there but thanks

Also... there is a dramatic difference in the performance of mods - my stock 25 ronin isn't anywhere near as quiet as the weihrach, in terms of human ears noticing both report and bark
I think what @dizzums is trying to say there (real danger putting words in another man's mouth but...) is that once you have a moderator which is designed to handle the power level of the rifle... THEN you won't see much difference in other moderators designed for the same power levels.

There is an "optimal" level of pressure at which a moderator as designed begins to work. Each design will be different but each different design will have an optimal "working pressure". That is a function of the design of the moderator and the design of the baffles in that moderator. Those big, long, 170mmx30mm moderators will really quiet down a 20 foot pound HW100 but they won't do as well with a 70 foot pound .22 or 25 cal rifle. You simply need more volume to handle the higher power levels. The BEST way to get that volume is by adding length OR redesigning the baffle system and adding diameter OR both.

There is no "magic" baffle design. There are some baffles which work much better than a simple washer, but you still have to "fit" the design to the power level within certain constraints. Basically if your moderator needs to handle 20 fpe and your rifle is using 430CC of air (typical for a .177 HW100 or similar quality rifle) to get that power then your moderator needs to be about 100 CC in volume and 16 CM long to get 15 dB of quieting. If you reduce the length of that moderator by half you will reduce the quieting by 3 (or more) dBs. That ratio will hold fairly well for anything designed like the Hugget or Weirhauch "3 chamber hair curler" design. The optimal chamber spacing for that design is about |3/8|-|2/8|-|3/8|. Change that and the ratio of moderator volume to air volume also changes. Once you start getting into K-Baffles, and "Tesla Diodes", and conical baffles, you can pick up quite a bit of additional effiency but nothing like enough to reduce that ratio by more than about 30 or 40 percent. That's a lot but it is also what it is. For ANY design you must double the length to get an additional 3dB of quieting.

For example a moderator that uses "Tesla Diodes" that worked well on my CONDOR at 70 foot pounds gave me about 12 dBs of noise reduction and it was only 120mm long, but it was 42mm in diameter. That works out to about 166 CC of internal volume. The three baffles it held took up some of that volume and while I could go dig up the exact amount of plastic in those baffles I'd rather not. Lets call the thing 125 CC of internal volume. In order to get another 3 dB of quieting I would have had to stick another one exactly like it on the end of it. So to get that same 15 dBs of quieting for that .25 Condor I would have had to make six baffles and increase the length to 240mm OR make larger baffles and increase the diameter by enough to get the additional volume plus some... I would have had to build a moderator that was 40mm x 240mm or one that was something like 45mm x 200mm. Remember I said increasing length is more efficient than increasing diameter and to be honest it is a whole lot more efficient.

The really good news is that you don't have to be an engineer to come up with a very good design. You can build a moderator that reduces the "distance to noise floor" by half in an afternoon with PVC pipe, a 1/2 x 20 tap, and a little glue once you understand the important things.

NOTE: By distance to noise floor, I mean the distance you need to get from the gun to be far enough away that the noise of the shot fades into the background noise.
 
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