Recommendation for milling and direct optic mounting.

A local gunsmith machinist that has done that type of machining work in the past is probably the best thing to do,and least expensive once shipping is figured into the total cost. It is a rather easy machining job to cut a common sized dovetail groove between two of the picatinny rail lugs and tap a shallow hole to lock the red dot adapter plate into. Also, because the milled portion and possibly the plate is going to be a permanent addition, it might be best placed in a location that won't interfere with the future placement of scope rings or a cantilever mount. Mounting Solutions Plus has a whole bunch of different designs of red dot adapter plates:

 
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Alternatively, there's this Burris FastFire III, 3 MOA dot, with an AR-F3 picatinny rail mount, on sale at 50% off, that probably the perfect height on that Leshiy 2 rail. You're likely going to have close to that much money wrapped up into the machinist job after everything is said and done.

 
Wont be using a red dot, rather a low mag scope. I have rigged up the current 30mm tube / 32 obj lense scope and no issues with cheek weld. I am also open to having the pic rail milled off if clearance is an issue. Not concerned about the cost, more concerned about having it done right.

On my L2 the R2D2 head towards the front of the valve assembly sits higher than the picatinny rail. So does the magazine, although it's not as high as the the R2D2 head.

So I have found the ocular end of a scope to more of a hindrance to mounting clearances than the objective end.

Or does your scope sit so far forward or backwards that this isn't a problem?
 
On my L2 the R2D2 head towards the front of the valve assembly sits higher than the picatinny rail. So does the magazine, although it's not as high as the the R2D2 head.

So I have found the ocular end of a scope to more of a hindrance to mounting clearances than the objective end.

Or does your scope sit so far forward or backwards that this isn't a problem?
Yup! It sits forward enough to clear and tucks in such a way as to help create a natural and repeatable cheek weld.

EDIT: It does have the Valkyrie hand guard
 
With only the picatinny rail in hand (completely disassembled), a local mom and pop machine shop (job shop) will be able to get it done. So they can bid the job and know what it entails, an exact blueprint sketch of the areas needing machined is required though. The exact dimensions and depths of cut are important to them, just as they would be to a gunsmith.

What kind of permanent addition are you trying mount on for that short 30mm scope? Leupold makes a super small picatinny rail cantilever mount that may be perfect.

Here's a lot of the blueprints for the red dot type of mounting footprints.

 
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Yup! It sits forward enough to clear and tucks in such a way as to help create a natural and repeatable cheek weld.

EDIT: It does have the Valkyrie hand guard

Curious to hear what scope you have. Only 32mm objective scope I have that gets close to being forward of the R2D2 head is my Burris Timberline. FOV is too narrow for how I prefer to use the L2, however.

I do plan to order a shorter air tube & reduce the length of pull on my L2. That will help.

By the way, sorry I haven't contributed anything to the actual question you put forth. Interested to see what you come up with.
 
Most certainly, will work on a quick photoshop this weekend. Original idea was to customize a direct mount like these:


but not sure if there is enough meat underneath the pic rail. Not so much worried about pcp recoil as grabbing the scope and breaking free a weak mounting point.
 
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Not that I’m suggesting you shouldn’t do it - I am wondering why? I’m running an Optisan CP on medium Tier One mounts and I’m not sure one could go much lower to the barrel centreline. Scope lines up perfectly at the rifle break (also bear in mind this is a low diameter scope).

70630921197__EC9AE120-8014-4C8B-98DF-8521E4E0490F.jpeg


70622701849__AACA953D-4CDB-4F64-88BB-E1493726CECF.jpeg
 
I can do it for you. I'm a licensed gunsmith and just did a glock rmr cut today.
Message sent.

Encore- I have plans to cerakote already and saw this as an opportunity to lower the bore height and reduce holdover/under to a minimum. I had been looking at the Ken Farrell low’s, but then started to wonder what else was possible.
 
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Starting to think the better play would be to just have the pic rail cut at the air gap to allow the ocular lens to clear. Pretty sure that a direct mounting would break off in time. Some reason the tier one low mount does not list a height on their site.

I am finding 0.98" (25mm) to center for the Tier One low picatinny rings.

You might be able to get lower than that with a set of 1" Burris XTR Signature Rings. They have tapered inserts that can also be used to adjust scope height slightly.

I'll see if I have a set I can mock up on a 32mm objective scope.
 
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