Recommendation for milling and direct optic mounting.

[Treks]

I am finding 0.98" (25mm) to center for the Tier One low picatinny rings.

I saw that as well for their tactical rings but was having trouble for the hunting rings. They list the medium hunting at 26mm. I did email the company and will report back when I get confirmation.

That would be awesome if you have a set of Burris rings. The Farrell rings are something like .735” and would most certainly need to have the rail cut. If the Burris or Tier Ones work, maybe I need to sit down and decide if the ballistic chart makes it worth the milling.

 

[Scouty]

I saw that as well for their tactical rings but was having trouble for the hunting rings. They list the medium hunting at 26mm. I did email the company and will report back when I get confirmation.

That would be awesome if you have a set of Burris rings. The Farrell rings are something like .735” and would most certainly need to have the rail cut. If the Burris or Tier Ones work, maybe I need to sit down and decide if the ballistic chart makes it worth the milling.

I should have some time this morning. Whether I have the rings is another question. I like low rings so I'm guessing I can get close.

 

[Scouty]

Starting to think the better play would be to just have the pic rail cut at the air gap to allow the ocular lens to clear. Pretty sure that a direct mounting would break off in time. Some reason the tier one low mount does not list a height on their site.

I looked up the specs on the Optisan CP 3-12x32 and found the dimensions as 40mm for the objective bell and 39.5mm for the ocular.

Fortunately my Timberline has an ocular of 39mm so only 0.25mm difference in clearance at the valve end of the L2 picatinny rail.

I put the -20 MOA inserts on both of the 1" rings so there would be an effective MOA tilt of zero. I doubt one would need more than 30 MOA given by the L2 rail. The -20 MOA inserts are the thinnest inserts in the kit.

Here is a picture of the clearance at the back end of the picatinny rail. I was able to fit a 6mm hex key in between the rail and the ocular housing.

For what it is worth, the clearance over the R2D2 head would have been very tight with this setup. Both with the +20 MOA inserts in both rings it should be fine. I understand the R2D2 head is not an issue for you but thought I'd mention it.

You mentioned having a handguard for your L2? Is it the aluminum picatinny guard? Does that picatinny rail on that handguard sit flush with the factory rail on the L2?

If I'm understanding your goals correctly, with the 0.735" rings you'd probably have to mill a bit off of the handguard picatinny rail as well.

Some quick math suggests the Farrel low or standard rings are worth trying, assuming you think you'll have a comfortable cheek weld with your scope that low.

 

[Treks]

You mentioned having a handguard for your L2? Is it the aluminum picatinny guard? Does that picatinny rail on that handguard sit flush with the factory rail on the L2?

If I'm understanding your goals correctly, with the 0.735" rings you'd probably have to mill a bit off of the handguard picatinny rail as well.

Some quick math suggests the Farrel low or standard rings are worth trying, assuming you think you'll have a comfortable cheek weld with your scope that low.

Thank you very much for taking the time to do that. Yep, it is the aluminum handguard and it does sit flush. I agree about the pic rail milling and need to sit down on Sunday with the calipers to figure this all out. Since direct mounting is out, it opens up the possibility of a local machinist. While I intend to use the CP, I also have a crossfire 2 with very generous eye relief.

 

[Airgun-hobbyist]

Thank you very much for taking the time to do that. Yep, it is the aluminum handguard and it does sit flush. I agree about the pic rail milling and need to sit down on Sunday with the calipers to figure this all out. Since direct mounting is out, it opens up the possibility of a local machinist. While I intend to use the CP, I also have a crossfire 2 with very generous eye relief.

Here's the Burris XTR rings @Scouty was referring to. I have several sets, of varying heights because their benefits are numerous. If you are looking to get a set once you figure out your ideal eye and ocular lense heights, the better deals on them come from eBay seller's.

XTR Signature Rings™ | Burris Optics

www.burrisoptics.com

 

[Treks]

I am finding 0.98" (25mm) to center for the Tier One low picatinny rings.

Heard back from Tier One, the 30mm hunting scope lows are 22mm (.86’’). I have some .856 rings and don’t see the lows clearing without removing some of the pic. EncoreUneFois called that one.

 

[Scouty]

Heard back from Tier One, the 30mm hunting scope lows are 22mm (.86’’). I have some .856 rings and don’t see the lows clearing without removing some of the pic. EncoreUneFois called that one.

I don't think I'm seeing the whole picture.

If the height to center of a ring is 22mm, a 40mm objective should clear by 2mm.

Likewise, a 39.5mm ocular should clear by 2.25mm.

 

[Treks]

I don't think I'm seeing the whole picture.

If the height to center of a ring is 22mm, a 40mm objective should clear by 2mm.

Likewise, a 39.5mm ocular should clear by 2.25mm.

You are right. In my head I was thinking back to Encores post and mounting over r2d2, neglected to write that.

 

[Scouty]

You are right. In my head I was thinking back to Encores post and mounting over r2d2, neglected to write that.

I brought up the R2D2 head, I think?

Regardless, I thought you were able to mount your scope forward enough to not worry about the R2D2 head?

 

[Treks]

He referred to it as a break in post #17, was providing supporting numbers to his thought now that Tier One provided measurements for the low. Yes, the CP is fine, the crossfire 2 wouldn’t be if mounted further up.

 

[Treks]

Scouty, can you think of any low magnification scopes with adjustable parallax down to 10 yards and around 9 inches of eye relief? Really don’t need anything above x6, but fine if it’s there.

 

[Scouty]

Do you really think you need 9" eye relief? Here are some options.

AIM Sports makes a 3-12x32 Scout scope with long eye relief but there are a few strikes against it.

1) It has a front adjustable objective instead of side focus so likely the objective is larger diameter than other 32mm objective lens scopes.

2) I believe that the eye relief changes from 22" on low power to 9" on high power. If you only used it in the 3x to 6x range maybe this would be manageable, I don't know.

3) The biggest issue for me is the narrow field of view. As I recall, on 3x it has less FOV than my Burris Timberline on 6x.

If you look into this one, there are two reticle options as I recall. One is BDC which I avoid. I believe they make a more traditional Mil or MOA reticle.

Other options.

Leupold has a discontinued 1.5-5x33 Scout scope with around 6" eye relief. It does not have adjustable focus but Leupold scopes are very easy to re-parallax to closer distances if you think a fixed parallax scope will work for you. I have a 2-7x33 Rimfire MOA I adjusted to 35 yard parallax and it's fine outdoors but it is a bit blurry indoors at 12 to 14 yards. But it is so easy to adjust that I wouldn't mind turning it down for winter indoor practice and then turning it back up for outdoor shooting.

Unfortunately these scopes are difficult to find used as Scout rifle enthusiasts snatch them up very quickly.

Leupold's current Scout scope is only a 1.5-4x 28 scope so not the 6x you want.

Both of these scopes have a narrow FOV but not as bad as the AIM Sports model mentioned first.

Bushnell has a discontinued 2-7x36 Scout scopes with 8" or 9" eye relief. I found some stock last summer, I think. Don't know if this one can have the fixed parallax adjusted easily.

 

[Treks]

Thank you for the suggestions, will look into them this weekend. Not sure if I need the full 9, but plan on sitting down and measuring out all the options / heights. I am still leaning towards cutting the pic and just want to make sure I choose the best option the first time. I have never used a scout set up in the past can imagine the pros and cons.

 

[Scouty]

Thank you for the suggestions, will look into them this weekend. Not sure if I need the full 9, but plan on sitting down and measuring out all the options / heights. I am still leaning towards cutting the pic and just want to make sure I choose the best option the first time.

Is your L2 a recent REPR model? Length of pull around 15.5" long?

That's what mine is and I find it a bit long, despite being average height with somewhat long arms.

There are shorter air tubes you can order from Spain that allow you to shorten the length of pull. I wouldn't do that just for scope fitment issues but if you think you'd prefer that then it is a consideration.

Do note that if you go too short you can no longer use the lower factory air tube and you'll have to switch to the 350cc bottle or delete the lower air tube altogether. If you like an angled grip on your L2 even the smallest bottle can be tight.

If you have the original regulator then there is an airtube available here in the states that will being your LOP down to around 14".

I already have an extra air tube & will probably have it machined down to a shorter length. I prefer a more vertical grip so it shouldn't be a problem.

 

[Treks]

The Leshiy is second hand to me, but I believe it was made around May of last year. I find the length of pull to be just a little on the short side, however it did come equipped with the 350 bottle. My cheek weld with a scope sitting directly on the rail in front of R2D2 feels fine and is repeatable, however I do have to hunch over to achieve it.

 

[Scouty]

The Leshiy is second hand to me, but I believe it was made around May of last year. I find the length of pull to be just a little on the short side, however it did come equipped with the 350 bottle. My cheek weld with a scope sitting directly on the rail in front of R2D2 feels fine and is repeatable, however I do have to hunch over to achieve it.

You comment about the scope sitting directly on the barrel reminded me of something. I have Leshiy Classics in addition to my L2. The Classics have that offset shroud so it can be hard to pick out scope heights based on listed scope dimensions.

I had various pieces of thin plastic or wood that I would stack under scopes to make sure the objective cleared the shroud. I would then measure the stack which would be the minimum saddle height for any given set of rings. Add that to 1/2 the scope tube diameter to get minimum height to center measurements required.

For the L2, same would apply to the ocular clearing the R2D2 head.