Red Wolf Standard with G2 board

So my new Red Wooof standard in 177 shoots 10.34 Exacts at about 870 FPS on high from 15 feet off the chrony.. That number would probably increase if the Chrony was closer. I am gong to try closer shots but until then, I would like to see about 900+ FPS on high, but according to the videos.

For airguns usually set your chrony 2 max 3 feet in front of the tip of the barrel...This is what most of the factories do (FWB, Anschutz, Steyr, AirArms)...It doesn't make much difference, but the closer you stay to what factories do, the more accurate and better your results...Remember that you are measuring MUZZLE velocity (Stay close to the muzzle).



"it seems the guns come from the factory set at "overall" optimum." 

You will have to find out what the factory means by "OPTIMUM"...Is it shot count, power/shot count, Precision, average of everything, or?...Their OPTIMUM most likely will not be your optimum.



I would like to see the Red Woooof maxed out even at the expense of air efficiency as long as my compressor holds up. It may not be at max, but it sure is efficient as is.

You can get it maxed out efficiently for whatever velocity/power you choose...Hey!, air is not going to increase in price in a long time, use as much as you need! 😉 

Regards,

AZ


 
So my new Red Wooof standard in 177 shoots 10.34 Exacts at about 870 FPS on high from 15 feet off the chrony.. That number would probably increase if the Chrony was closer. 

I am gong to try closer shots but until then, I would like to see about 900+ FPS on high, but according to the videos, it seems the guns come from the factory set at "overall" optimum. I have not made a shot count as of yet, but it does seem I am getting way more shots per fill than my Wolverine, but that is a subjective assessment.

I am limited to my back yard and that is why all my guns are 177. I am happy with them in that less powerful caliber, but shooting the 177 HW 97 springer at the GTA paintball match last year was quite the challenge vs.the 22's that had better ballistic coefficients in the windy conditions we faced.

That is why I would like to see the Red Woooof maxed out even at the expense of air efficiency as long as my compressor holds up. 😏 It may not be at max, but it sure is efficient as is.

Your post was very Ko-hear-aunt 👍


These are the results I got from my rifle with the same pellets. I posted this on another forum.

I used the single shot tray with the pellets straight out of the can. Approx 900 pellets through the rifle (at the end of this test). The barrel was cleaned when I received the rifle, but not since. Seems to like about a 200 bar fill (Max) for shooting on Low power.

Shots 1-50 start 227 bar, end 209 bar.
Avg 729fps, High 745fps, Low 707fps

Shots 51-100 start 209 bar, end 194 bar.
Avg 746fps, High 765fps, Low 726fps, Spread 39.0, Std Dev 8.8

Shots 101-150 start 194 bar, end 178 bar
Avg 771fps, High 782fps, Low 754fps, Spread 28.0, Std Dev 6.2

Shots 151-200 start 178 bar, end 164 bar
Avg 786fps, High 796fps, Low 768fps, Spread 28.0, Std Dev 5.7

Shots 201-250 start 164 bar, end 149 bar
Avg 788fps, High 800fps, Low 777fps, Spread 23.0, Std Dev 4.8

Shots 251-300 start 149bar, end 135 bar
Avg 784fps, High 793fps, Low 763fps, Spread 30.0, Std Dev 4.9

Shots 301-350 start 135 bar, end 121 bar
Avg 779fps, High 791fps, Low 768fps, Spread 26.0, Std Dev 4.8

Shots 351-400 start 121 bar, end 108 bar
Avg 773fps, High 779fps, Low 759fps, Spread 20.0, Std Dev 4.2

Shots 401-450 start 108 bar, end 94 bar
Avg 779fps, High 789fps, Low 768 fps, Spread 21.0 Std Dev 5.5

High Power shot string. 10.34gr JSB, single shot tray. FX chronograph.

Shots 1-50 Start 230 bar, end 203 bar.
Average 896 High 902 Low 888 Spread 14.0 Std Dev 3.2

Shots 51-100 Start 203 bar, end 180 bar
Average 901 High 909 Low 888 Spread 21.0 Std Dev 3.9

Shots 101-150 Start 180 bar, end 158 bar
Average 901 High 909 Low 888 Spread 21.0 Std Dev 4.3

Shots 151-200 Start 158 bar, end 137bar **Low pressure warning came on at 142 bar - shot #188**
Average 896 High 902 Low 888 Spread 14.0 Std Dev 2.9
 
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More tuning fun

I wanted to get rid of that climbing fps from about 165 bar down. 

Here is how I went about that:

  • brought my "low pulse length" from 1360 to 1330microseconds (took a little thinking for me to logic through this one, smaller # means a shorter blip of time, so less air and theoretically lower fps)
  • filled the gun to 168 bar (I'm really liking the EXACT pressure supplied on the screen, kinda cool to watch it come down a few bar as a fresh, even intentionally slowly filled, fill cools off)
  • shot a couple shots, with these results: 809.4, 823, 826.6, 819.8, 821.1, 821.4
  • those shots being higher fps than desired made me realize I would need to bring down the "mid pulse length" as well
  • changed "mid pulse length" from 1560-1545
  • gun now at 166 bar from first couple shots
  • first shot after mid pulse adjustment = 780fps "*$%&%$&, &$#&$, $&#%" I think to myself, and then remember that the first shot is low after any adjustments to the programming
  • next shots = 810.8, 815.2, 811.6, 807.2, 808.7, etc. That's more like it! (remember goal is 815ish fps with 13.43gr JSB for just under 20fpe)

I went ahead and shot a string down to 110 bar. This is what that looked like.

1588230079_19390290905eaa77bf06b840.02826481.jpg


I reported earlier today that I had an ES of 14. I was wrong. I had just skimmed down through my notes, finding high and low. Excel did a better job than my eyes when I ran MIN and MAX formulas after getting the data input. 

Thoughts before moving on

These numbers are starting to look quite promising, at least for FT! SD is quite good, only a couple shots are over the goal fps, and ALL of the shots are under the 2% variance in chronograph results granted by AAFTA rule book. So, I'm fully legal, and have a nice long shot string. I could just shoot from 165-110bar and have plenty of shots for a 2 day match, including some sighters prior to the match.

That brings up an interesting point. Just because a gun is capable of filling to 250 bar does not mean it needs to be filled that high. Lloyd Sikes online PCP fill calculator shows that somebody with a good ole SCUBA tank with a max fill of 207 bar (3000 psi) would be able to fill the RW to 165 bar (2393psi), shoot 144, 19.7fpe (Field Target legal) shots down to 110 bar (1595psi) and then get a complete refill back up to 165, a full 17 or 18 times. At 144 shots per fill, we're talking about 2448 shots, or about 5 tins of pellets. And there's still additional partial fills. I'm just making the point here, that a 4500psi SCBA is not always necessary for pcps, even high end ones like the RW. 

The high, mid, and low pulse lengths only kinda coincide with the high, mid, and low pressure points. It seems like they overlap, or the CPU is constantly making adjustments. What I mean is that the low pulse length seems to kick in and possibly overlap with the mid pulse length, somewhere between the low and mid pressure point settings, in regards to the bottle pressure. 

With what I think I know about the programming of the RW now, I'd stick my neck out to suggest that Daystate intends for High to be used with something like 250-200bar and then refilled and shot again. The "low pressure" warning that comes on when under 200 or so bar when on High power, and now understanding that the "low pressure point" for High is 202 bar.....well that's simply it, in a nutshell. 

Theoretical entire shot string

1588234582_21088853145eaa89565655c7.21536004.jpg


Since I didn't want to put another 330ish shots over the chrono, the above is an approximation. I recorded the pressure pretty often through all the chronograph shooting (in 10 or sometimes 5 bar increments). That allowed me to try to envision what the programming was doing, but also enabled me to create the above, without shooting another horrifically long shot string over the chronograph (funny to gripe about a shot count that is TOO high-seems backwards). So, the first 182 shots came from the shot string from a few days ago, 244-165 bar. The rest of the string, 144 shots, came from the programming done today, 165-110 bar. It's not exactly like shooting them all through consecutively, but for shot strings longer than 3/5 of a tin of pellets, it'll have to do. It can easily be noted that my programming from 165 down is the more consistent section of the string. I do believe I'm going to call it good here though, considering the intended use does not require a tighter ES than seen here. Besides, can't really turn my nose up at a tune doing 326 shots, all within a tight enough spread to stick a pellet in a FT kill zone. 

Current state of the Medium/FT power level programming:

Current tune in left column, factory settings in right column (minus the error in the factory voltage that was previously explained)

1588231496_19522826995eaa7d48dd2529.35484027.jpg


It's also kind of interesting to compare my 20fpe programming to the factory "Low" 31fpe settings (available in a previous post if you're curious).

Moving on

After finishing out the above shot string, I wanted to make sure the gun was still behaving when filled to 250 bar, so refilled it and took some shots with it up that high. The first 5 shots average 803.3fps so I felt pretty good about it. I also wanted to make sure that messing with Medium power didn't have any effect on factory High and Low. High is still doing 870-880 with the 25.39 redesigns. Low is still doing 865-885fps with the 18.13, and still shooting PHENOMENALLY well with this pellet at this speed. My instructor was absolutely spot-on: the three power levels appear to be 100% independent of each other. So, I've got a 45fpe, 31fpe, and 19.5fpe shooter to do testing with now. Sweet. 

At this point the gun went back into the stock and I was glad to be done with the programmer.

After all of that, come to find out that the barrel does not like the 13.43gr JSB that I had set my sight on as the magic bullet (pellet) for Field Target. I shot for a couple hours and just couldn't get that pellet to behave. I investigated all the normal culprits. I tried different pellet lots. I lubed up some pellets. Tried different moderators, and no moderator. I even thought I was having scope shift issues and mounted up an old-trusty scope to make sure. No dice, still having flyers with the 13.43gr JSB. (Insert giant, first-world problem, airgun dammit here.)

Before I forget, at 20fpe this gun is backyard friendly WITHOUT a moderator. Without a moderator, just the factory shroud, it is quieter than my JM kitted HW50s springer (and that's a smooth shooting quiet springer). With the Tatsu on and at 20fpe it sounds like a clap? And with the Decimeater it sounds about like a light switch being pushed, 

This kind:
1588232876_2381770765eaa82ac71a634.92903461.jpg


CRAZY quiet. Possibly the quietest 20fpe airgun that I've ever shot. Click and then SMACK, the pellet hits the cardboard target backing. Very cool to experience. 

So back to the 13.43gr JSB not working out. Here's my hypothesis: this JSB design/weight runs small in the head size department and the RW barrel doesn't run as small as some of the regular Lothar barrels. I am guessing that is intentional to allow for shooting of slugs. All this is based on how tight the NSAs are to chamber in my .22 Veteran barrel, and how much that gun LOVES the 13.43JSB at 20fpe (CZ barrel in Veteran seems like it's a tad small). Combine that with the same box of NSAs chambering much more easily in the RW barrel, and not even being able to feel the 13.43s hit the forcing cone/lead in the RW. I think the head size is just a bit too smalle for this particular barrel. With the 14.3s and 15.89s I can feel the pellet making the transition into the barrel, which makes me think more appropriate head size, and supported by how those pellets are shooting, compared to the 13.43s. 

The proof is in the pudding. These are ten shot groups from a bumbag (first time with the RW from a bumbag today), below the tins are at 30 yards, and above the tins are at 53 yards.

1588233519_19074330465eaa852f889f21.62121581.jpg


Check out that 30 yards group from the 15.89!!!!! 10 easily under a dime, FROM A BUM BAG!!! Shooting that was one of those really cool airgunning moments that will stick with me for awhile. 

The 14.3 group at 30 was also quite respectable. 

Conclusion

As bad as I wanted the gun to like the 13.43, it just doesn't. 2 inch groups at 53 just isn't gonna cut it for FT, especially when I know what kind of accuracy this gun is capable of. The best accuracy seemed to be coming from the 15.89gr, but it's only doing 720fps with my FT power level (so much lost fpe here further reinforces my thought that the JSB 13.43 is undersized for this particular barrel-usually heavier pellet weight in a PCP makes fpe go UP, not down). I could likely bump up the fps (across the whole pressure range) a hair by just increasing the voltage 0.5-1 volt, but I'd still have a VERY loopy trajectory at around 750fps for sub 20fpe. It's kinda seeming like the most reasonable compromise is going to the 14.35gr JSB (in the middle in the above pic). They shot a very good 30 yard group, and put 10 into just a bit over an inch at 53 yards-that's passable FT accuracy. The 14.35s are doing 770-780fps, still legal. That's probably the direction I'll head with my FT intentions for this gun. 

Funny little side story

If you look at the target above you'll see that I have two, 10 shot groups at 53 yards with the 15.89 and 13.43 but only one with the 14.35. I actually took the shot #1 of a planned 10 with the 14.35 and then my father in law stepped into the garage (wife had sent him out to check out the RW). He's been showing a little interest in airguns here lately. I think to myself, ha ha, what better first one to check out than a DAYSTATE REDWOLF. So, I run out a fresh target to 53 and stick a big orange target at the 30 yard bucket. I set back up the table and get the bags stuffed under the gun. He takes a seat and I could tell from behind that he was nowhere near lined up. Got him lined up on the 53 yard pellet trap and he still couldn't tell what he was looking at. Scope is a 10-50x60 so it takes a little muscle memory to get it all straightened out. I threw the lever over to get it down to 10x and he was still struggling a bit. He finally found it and I just told him to hold crosshairs wherever he wanted the pellet to go (it was already clicked in to poi). He took his first shot and I saw it. That, the airgunning industry just hooked a big one, smile. That, "holy $Hi# this is cool!" response. He took another shot and got another big grin. He was all excited to walk down range and check it out. Both of his shots were inside the 1inch black circle he was aiming for, not too shabby, not too shabby at all. Ha ha.
 
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WELL DONE , FRANKLINK!

Your meticulous approach and detailed report are a joy to follow !

I do think you'll want to re-measure the 180 bar area after making a change there, but it's likely to be just fine.

Also... I have some CP 22s die 1 from 1999 that are very good and a better bc than any of the 3 you were trying so far. The 14.3 weight would allow you to get to the 800 fps area. I have plenty for your testing and competition should they prove to be good. Just need to get them to you.

I think your understanding of the tuning process and explanation of it are pretty spot on..... at least from my understanding of it with this programmer.

Looking forward to the next episode .

Bob
 
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I also wanted to make sure that messing with Medium power didn't have any effect on factory High and Low. High is still doing 870-880 with the 25.39 redesigns. Low is still doing 865-885fps with the 18.13, and still shooting PHENOMENALLY well with this pellet at this speed. My instructor was absolutely spot-on: the three power levels appear to be 100% independent of each other. So, I've got a 45fpe, 31fpe, and 19.5fpe shooter to do testing with now. Sweet.

In one of the videos you posted, didn't AOA suggest that an increase in one parameter should be followed by the same increase in all the power setting parameters or was that just to maintain equal spread between low, medium and high settings?
 
WELL DONE , FRANKLINK!

Your meticulous approach and detailed report are a joy to follow !

I do think you'll want to re-measure the 180 bar area after making a change there, but it's likely to be just fine.

Also... I have some CP 22s die 1 from 1999 that are very good and a better bc than any of the 3 you were trying so far. The 14.3 weight would allow you to get to the 800 fps area. I have plenty for your testing and competition should they prove to be good. Just need to get them to you.

I think your understanding of the tuning process and explanation of it are pretty spot on..... at least from my understanding of it with this programmer.

Looking forward to the next episode .

Bob

Thanks Bobby. 

I may have to take you up on the pellet offer, if we can figure out the logistics. I also need to get the programmer back to you. 
 
I also wanted to make sure that messing with Medium power didn't have any effect on factory High and Low. High is still doing 870-880 with the 25.39 redesigns. Low is still doing 865-885fps with the 18.13, and still shooting PHENOMENALLY well with this pellet at this speed. My instructor was absolutely spot-on: the three power levels appear to be 100% independent of each other. So, I've got a 45fpe, 31fpe, and 19.5fpe shooter to do testing with now. Sweet.

In one of the videos you posted, didn't AOA suggest that an increase in one parameter should be followed by the same increase in all the power setting parameters or was that just to maintain equal spread between low, medium and high settings?

Bob, I had the same thought, and I mentioned a couple posts ago that the AOA video is somewhat ambiguous in this regard. 

I think he was saying that, within the power level, the changes should be made incrementally. I suspect he's trying to help people preserve the general look of the string that was achieved at the factory by the Daystate programmer. 

Now having been through it myself, I agree with Bobby that the power levels sure seem completely independent of one another. 
 
Ok Franklink, I don’t know how you’re going to top the RedWolf review! But I’m anxiously awaiting your next endeavor!

Thank you sir. We'll just have to see which rifle AOA decides they want me to review next. 

In the mean time, I've got lots planned for this one still.

  • short report on barrel
  • short report on stock 
  • continued reporting on pellet selection and optimal tune for a field target combination 
  • full chronograph shot strings on High and Medium
  • long range groups (100 yards or so) at 31fpe with JSB 18.1 and 45fpe with JSB 25.39 (and maybe some slugs in the 20gr weight range)
  • test out some of my cast pellets-they're in the 19.6 weight range and look a lot like a JSB 18.1, just with a small meplat (NOE mold)
  • try to do some hunting with it (if I have it long enough for season to open-pdogs, and if not, there's a species of ground squirrel pretty local to me called Golden Mantle-they make a mighty fun airgun quarry, also have the occasional rock squirrel and starlings/euro doves, some scope cam footage of any of that would be cool)
  • monthly FT match performance report
  • whatever else comes up along the way
 
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Barrel

I forgot to mention that one of my troubleshooting steps yesterday when I was trying to get the JSB 13.43grainers to shoot well, was taking off and cleaning the barrel. I took some pics so they could be shared.

Barrel/shroud are a single unit and can be removed from the barrel as such. Two set screws from the top of the breech and the barrel/shroud assembly slides out. You can see the dimples in the barrel that coincide with the breech set screws. The set screws are larger than the ones in my Raptor that has a similar configuration. I feel better about the bigger set screws in the RW. 

1588310557_10101528235eabb21ddfb394.06108238.jpg


Barrel step-down machining and transfer port can be seen here. I was planning on getting some calipers on that transfer port before putting it back together but completely forgot.

1588310713_18741759105eabb2b9d74aa1.10916895.jpg


Just another angle

1588310738_17565313715eabb2d21e7a63.80788749.jpg


Bolt/barrel interaction is sealed via oring in a groove in the barrel (no oring on probe).





1588310810_4135063725eabb31a4a1816.34648732.jpg


The Red Wolf expert advised that the easiest way to clean the barrel was to simply remove it, pop out the oring, and proceed to clean it. I used a single piece coated rod and jag. I put a straw in the shroud to avoid losing any patches in there (just in case) but was told that as long as you only push them out one direction, the patches will usually stay on the jag just fine. I didn't have any trouble there. The same RW expert turned me onto a Harbor Freight set of picks that were recommended to him by another member of our FT club. I picked a set up for a couple bucks and slightly modified one of the picks to be able to slip under the oring for removal prior to cleaning, also per his recommendation.

He sent me this picture of how he did his.

1588311204_6518952435eabb4a4a63ea9.49767000.jpg


I wasn't able to get as pronounced of a hook on mine, but was able to modify it to safely and conveniently remove the oring so that it could be replaced and reused after the cleaning.

Everybody has their own preferred method and product for cleaning. I lean towards using the same Slick 50 One Lube that I sometimes use for pellet lube, as moisture for the patches during cleaning. Patches started out quite black but got clean pretty quickly. That can probably be attributed to the JB Bore Paste treatment this barrel was given at AOA. My goal here was to just get it clean, no abrasives or solvents or any drastic measures for cleaning were employed. 

I tried to grab pics of the crown...

1588311520_544457965eabb5e0316a10.56977253.jpg


and lead.

1588311533_661530125eabb5ed589300.94333331.jpg


Lead was easier to get images for, as the crown is recessed a couple of inches into the shroud. 

Definitely a traditional 12 land/groove LW barrel, just made to the Daystate specs.

I could see down the barrel better than I could get a picture of, and I couldn't see any lead adhering or building up anywhere. To the naked eye, seemed to be all in order. 




 
Barrel/shroud are a single unit and can be removed from the barrel as such.

I know of the two screws at the base of the receiver to remove the shroud and the ones at the top to remove the barrel. Can the barrel be separated from the shroud? I seem to remember seeing a Red Wolf with the shroud off the barrel for some reason.

I too clean the barrels I have with the internal "O" ring by removing it. I have yet to take off the barrel from the Red Wolf but that may happen today for a cleaning. The set up seems to be the same as the Wolverine's except that the Wolverine's shroud unscrews and leaves the barrel exposed.
 
The shroud just slides off after removing the 2 grub screws at the breech end. I like the Wolverine style better because you can access the barrel without removing it but there seems to be a possibility of accuracy problems with that style if the barrel, tube, and mount aren't PERFECTLY straight. I've seen that in the past but only recently refreshed the idea of that potential problem. 

Bob
 
Stock

Sharing some pics and initial thoughts on the stock. 

1588571997_7441697525eafaf5d46e048.55884120.jpg


Inletting-big round hole is where the foster fitting sticks out the bottom, smaller round hole for the massive lug holding action to the gun

1588572026_17031803225eafaf7a347ab5.15543432.jpg


Here's that lug next to a dime for perspective-it's a biggun (the smaller screws are 2 of the 3 that hold the cover on the electronics-which is all hidden when the action is in the stock)

1588572134_9384411115eafafe6b3e495.98415698.jpg


Thought this pic could prove helpful for anyone considering buying a RW and putting a rail underneath for a bipod. It's obviously thick enough to be done because I've seen lots of RWs with rails mounted in this area.

1588572026_6484185075eafaf7a5f31a9.92955532.jpg


Some endgrain under the buttpad. I thought the M brand/stamp was pretty cool. I'm guessing that's a Minelli mark. I would bet that branded "O" also means something, perhaps how it was graded as a blank. It would be really neat to know the story of how the stocks are sourced. I once heard that FWB had multiple employees that had the responsibility of sourcing the stocks that went into their 10m 300s variant guns, back in the 70s and 80s. I'm envisioning a bunch of wood sitting in stacks at lumberyards and a handful of guys combing through the stacks with their little M stamps/brands, looking for and marking the best of the best. I was also told by a custom airgun stock-maker in Cali that lots of the high quality old-growth walnut that became gun stocks in the last 100 years is nearly gone. Again, would be interesting to know some history on where this walnut was grown, and the whole process of how it became a Red Wolf stock.

1588572249_18198469915eafb059ab97e4.16741027.jpg


Buttpad configuration, it can be angled as well as slid up and down.

1588572603_7788852935eafb1bb39bb18.43935999.jpg


(fun to find that Minelli mark and the "made in Italy" lettering)

1588572603_12425259335eafb1bba61a38.08522368.jpg


This is how I adjusted it.

1588573631_13572285585eafb5bfdc3b23.91087228.jpg


If a stock's adjustments allow for it, I like the buttpad to turn into my armpit, at least a little. 

1588573632_3017022325eafb5c021a6a4.81920675.jpg


The big front bell on the 10-50x60 required some high mounts to clear the shroud, so I needed to bring up the cheek riser a fair amount for things to line up more comfortably. I also slid the buttpad down a considerable amount. It just feels better to me that way.

Thumb and finger grooves

1588574269_18516867055eafb83d1fc980.32243351.jpg
1588574269_21173218435eafb83d4f2963.44822610.jpg
 

Grip

1588574294_11815073265eafb8560d3584.31157668.jpg
1588574294_11105983235eafb8562d4bd5.36262061.jpg


Summary

I did all my baseline chronograph testing with the stock as it came to me, likely the factory, neutral positions. After those long programming sessions shooting it out of the stock, I decided I was going to adjust it to my liking. 

I like the stock.

A guy can look at a stock all day, whether in a gun rack, somebody else's hands, or online, and have no idea whether or not it "feels" good to hold. For me, the RW stock has that nice fitting, "good" feel. I really like the finger and thumb grooves up front on the forend. They are simply ergonomic and allow a nice, secure hold of the gun without that feel that it's gonna slip out of my hands. The way the grip fits my hand gives a sort of uncanny, "how'd they make it fit my hand so well," impression. There are some raised and depressed areas that line up perfectly with my fingers. The groove for the upright thumb position is also something that I really like on a stock. Weird thing with this stock is that when I grab that grip, everything is lined up for my trigger finger to be right where I like it, with the pad of the most distal joint right there on the trigger blade. For perspective, I'm about 5'10" and Medium size gloves fit me pretty well, I've got pretty short fat fingers and my hands are pretty wide across the palm.

Now for my criticisms, and both of them are field target position related. I shoot "Open" class style, sitting on a bumbag with the gun resting on a knee. I was disappointed to find that the adjustable buttpad doesn't have the ability to change the length of pull. With an adjustable length of pull, I have found that I can adjust it so that the entire gun "locks" into position, from my knee to my shoulder. When shooting without a bipod or bench the body becomes the gun's support. Being able to utilize the body to gain the most steady position possible really helps hit those field targets. The RW stock needs about an inch longer LOP for me to achieve that "locked" feel. I was glad to see the deep underbelly right in front of the trigger guard. Most guns need a "hamster" or knee-riser to make a good FT gun. The deep belly on the RW stock is more helpful than a lot of stock designs, but still just a bit shallower than I'd prefer. 

So, for general use, and even for shooting from a bench, the RW stock has a lot going for it. A VERY ergonomic stock and simply a pleasure to hold and shoot. For a FT stock, I would like to see either a deeper belly/forend, or the option for a hamster to be added/removed. I'd also like to be able to adjust the lop, for FT. With my minor stock gripes, we're starting to get back into that concept of one gun for multiple uses. For somebody planning to purchase this gun and use it for multiple disciplines and purposes, the stock is exactly what it should be. A longer LOP and a knee riser or deeper forend are both very specialized to how I like a FT gun to fit, and are less important for a bench or hunting gun. 


 
HIGH power level shot string

with JSB 25.39 Redesigns

1588652728_9788122035eb0eab826ee70.38859698.jpg


Started at 249 bar, 200 bar at shot #42, 195bar at #46, 191bar at #50 and "low pressure" message came up at this point, 185bar at shot #55, 180bar at shot #59, 170bar at shot #68.

I'm calling it 58-60 good shots from 249-180bar. 

I feel like I need to point out that the average fps on high is lower than the 5 shot average I got on one of those first couple days with the gun. This is a different lot# of these pellets, so that could be the difference. Or maybe it broke-in a little? I also changed some programming (on a completely different power level). It is possible that could have been the difference. Or a change in lighting to the chrono, or who knows. But it looks like the 60 shot average is about 25fps less than the 5 shot average I took early on. That makes the gun (in it's current state) about 42fpe. So, it's still doing 7 or 8 more fpe than the Standard model did prior to the G2 board, (but not the 10-12fpe more that I originally was getting).

60, 42fpe shots (with a tight SD and a decent ES) is nothing to sneeze at, coming from a 38.5 inch long gun with a 17 inch barrel.

There's been some discussion over in the Benchrest area about how we describe groups. While I really wanted to say that I shot all 60 of the above good shots into a "hole in hole" group, I better refrain, at least until that talk about being realistic blows over a bit. 😉

It seems that general consensus was to refer to group sizes as MONEY. So I made this today, prior to shooting the above shot string. 

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I simply laid 8 dimes on a copy machine and made a "dime-sized" target. A dime measures 0.705 inches. 0.705inches @ 60 yards is 1.122moa. So, keeping em all under a dime at 60 yards would be pretty close to sub-moa. And here is 62 of the 68 shots that comprise the shot string above. 

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The first 6 shots were taken at a different paper/pellet trap to establish point of impact. From there I shot 5 shot groups at each of the dimes (except for the 13th group-only two shots here), starting with the bottom left dime and working my way to the right and then up. I numbered the groups in the order they were shot. I thought I would only have 40 or so good shots so I had to start making some groups off to the sides because my fps was still within what I consider acceptable. 

This is from 60 yards. It was really interesting to see that at about shot #58, I started having a really hard time getting them to go where I wanted. I dunno if it was something to do with the harmonics, or the solenoid has to open longer with a lower pressure, and therefore makes the gun more hold sensitive? Dunno, but I highly advise stopping around where the low-pressure warning comes on, or maybe 5 or so shots after that. 

There has also been some discussion about the Daystate Red Wolf's electronics vs traditionally regulated guns. A 13.8fps ES over 60 shots is pretty tight, traditional regulator or not. 

(I was able to shoot for most of the day today, and it was wonderful. So, I've got data to do a couple more write-ups in the next week or so. Upcoming ones are: continued programming of the sub20fpe FT power level-I think I've got it down to about a 12-14fps spread over about 330 shots, JSB Jumbo Monster Redesigns vs Original Jumbo Monsters from the RW @ 60 yards, and finally, One Gun Magic-now that I've got the power levels EXACTLY where I want them......sneak peak....all three power levels have serendipitous vertically aligning points of impact!!!). 


 
Continued programming

For those not following along, the quick and dirty is that I've been trying to create a sub 20fpe power level, with hopes of using the JSB RS 13.43gr pellets for Field Target (for flattest trajectory). I was able to get a (likely) ES of 32fps over 330shots and thought I'd hit paydirt, only to find out that the barrel doesn't like those pellets at that speed, or at least doesn't like the batch/lot from my current sleeve.

So, next step, optimization of the programming for the JSB 14.35 grainers. I KNOW that these shoot quite well from this gun in this ballpark of fps. 

Prior to any additional programming changes, I took the following shots over the chrono to get an idea of power level and consistency with the 14.35s. I think the loss in fpe when going from the 13.43s to the 14.35s only further supports my previously presented theory that the JSB RS pellets heads are undersized. (tighter fit with appropriately sized 14.35s = reduction in fps/fpe).

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The idea here was that 5 shot averages at these three bottle pressures would give me a decent representation of what to expect over the course of an entire shot string from 250-110bar. So, looks pretty consistent but about 20fps less than I can get away with for FT. With the fpe calculator that I usually use, I'm finding that 792fps with 14.35gr pellets produces 19.99fpe, so that (or maybe 10 or so fps higher due to that 2% allowance due to chronograph variance) is the goal. Since I'm kinda stretching it by using the .22 for Field Target, I'd really like to get as flat of a trajectory curve as possible, ie highest possible fps, within the rules. 

My programming instructor (ArzRover here on AGN) implied that changing the voltage is a good way to bring all of the velocity up or down, across the range of fill pressures. So I increased the voltage from 62.51 to 63.11. He had also suggested that I might want to look at what fps was doing around that MID PULSE LENGTH, because I had made a change there earlier and never verified its effect. So, even with the voltage increase, I was getting an average of 772fps at 190 bar-too low. He was right, my earlier change to the MID PULSE LENGTH had resulted in some slow fps shots right above the roughly corresponding MID PRESSURE POINT of 180bar. I increased the MID PULSE LENGTH from 1545microseconds to 1552. I don't know why but each time I change the pulse pressures I really have to think it through, it just seems counter-intuitive at first glance. To reiterate, making the valve open for a split second LONGER, results in an increased pellet velocity. The first shot after making the MID PULSE adjustments was low fps (as it always is immediately after making a change), but the next 5 shots averaged 791.56fps-SUCCESS! That 7microsecond increase equated to an fps increase of 20fps, in this case. 

I can see that bringing up a question for anybody reading....how in the heck does this guy have any idea how much to increase or decrease any of these parameters? The answer: trial and error. With the handful of programming sessions I've had now, I have a general idea of the effect the magnitude of the various parameter changes will have on the velocity. I would bet that every gun is slightly different and I can see how the more programming experience an individual has, the better they become at it. So, that Daystate employee that is THE person responsible for the factory programming, has gotta be a freaking PRO at it. I'm guessing there's much less trial and error in his job as a factory programmer, and much more knowledge. 

Here are the current settings for my FT power level, producing the above fps with JSB 14.35.

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Now the big questions: How consistent is my string, and is my power level where I want it? Back to the chronograph. I wasn't willing to put more than 300 shots over the chrono again, so I shot 5 shots at each of 6 different bottle pressures, for a total of 30 shots. Again, not as good as an entire shot string, but should be okay for getting an idea of overall fpe and consistency. I did this by shooting on HIGH and LOW just for fun (and to use up more air) to get to each pressure point, and then switching back to MEDIUM/FT power level. 

Since there's only 30 shots, I'm including all of them this go around.

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Plotted out, those shots look like this.

1588792149_17160175355eb30b5576de72.92622682.jpg


Looked pretty good to me, both in ES and power level. Legal and consistent enough for FT, especially over such a wide range of pressures.

At that point I put all the tins of pellets and chronograph and programmer and etc away and sat down on my bum bag and just enjoyed shooting for a couple hours. Very pleasant to shoot this gun at this power level-so very quiet and no jumping around, precision is not very hard to attain due to overall mildness. Also really neat to be able to sit there for a VERY long time and simply shoot, without needing to refill the gun.

I worked out some impact points at various FT distances and numbers are matching up pretty good for a guessed BC of 0.028. I think I'll test the BC and report on that. 

I was also griping to ArzRover through text, about how loopy the .22 at 20fpe seems, specifically the 14.35 vs the 13.43gr pellets, compared to the .177 at 20fpe that I'm more familiar with. Mostly I still had a burr under my saddle about not being able to use the lighter pellets that I had set my sights on. My complaining led him to collect and share some data with me, in regards to BCs and lightweight .22 pellets. He used a Labradar and compared the JSB 14.35, the JSB 13.43, and some old quality Crosman Premiers (14.3s) from the late 90s, through three different guns. The average velocity drop from 1 to 35 yds with 3 rifles was 13.43gr- 103fps, 14.35gr - 107fps, and Premier - 87fps. 

The Premiers were the winners for retained velocity, but high quality/consistent CPs are a thing of the past. I'd like to be able to use a currently available to the masses pellet. His results made me feel a lot better about using the 14.35s, as it's really not losing much velocity when compared to the 13.43s. Retention of velocity equates to BC. I'm also thinking since the trajectory difference seems to be minimal, that extra grain might even help with resistance to wind deflection.

So far I'm quite pleased with the accuracy at 19.9fpe too. It took me 80 or so shots to kind of get a feel for the wind and it's effect on this pellet at this speed, but once I did, putting them in the previous pellet hole was a pretty common occurrence, from 20-55 yards (still need to work up the 10-20 yards). If I don't mess up and make some rookie mistakes, I should be able to get a decent FT score at a match with this set-up. The gun is surely capable, that just leaves the misses to me.

(I'm really hoping to be DONE programming now).


 
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