I ONLY use the Thomsons water seal(LOVE how its just clear to show the natural workings of the already existing colors) watter proof and seal in 1....now...only stained a few times bc it wasnt.for meLooks like it could refinish to somthing pretty nice... If unsure on how to just take the stock to a furniture restorer person and talk it up .. definitely looks to be a interesting project with nice end result..
Good luck.
Sand blasting and tungoil may do for me..lol. Thomson's water seal or deck treatment probly do me too..
If you need fingerprints, there's a handprint on my Max cheekpiece. WMI think the stock finisher at the factory in China just grabbed this off the line, hit the shadow areas under the cheek pieces first with 60 grit, then a few swipes with 120, then rubbed in yesterday morning's cold coffee -- no cream, thank gosh -- and called her good.
My buddy and I love ours, seriously awesome rifles. Mine is in the back with the 0db moderator at 45 fpe it is really really accurate , have taken it out to 100 yards and it surprised me. Let us know what you decide to do and how it comes out as the stock is one thing I want to do to this rifle, my next step is to polish the barrel.CT, I agree that this is a very nice rifle for the price point.
I like this rifle, but the stock is very homely with a dull finish and sanding marks showing badly. Has anyone tried stripping one of these stocks? How did it work and what did you use? Thanks.
Yep, I’ve refinished about 5 stocks all using these products. Its not expensive.
I recently re-did a brand new, expensive Daystate stock because it had beautiful grain and tiger stripes, but the factory finish was dull.
Step #1 - use Citra Strip to remove the factory finish. This gets rid of a lot of it. The Citra Strip goes on like orange goop, but it cleans off easily with Mineral Spirits on a paper towel.
Step #2 - use Star Brite Teak Cleaner and Brightener. This stuff really strips and cleans and remaining finish. I always wipe down stock again with mineral spirits after using this.
Step #3 - use sandpaper (320, 400 and perhaps even 600 on the cheek rest) to smooth out any imperfections you see.
Step #4 - use Tru-Oil gun stock finish. Apply thin coats - I put a few drops of Tru-Oil in the lid of an empty pellet tin and dilute about 50/50 with the mineral spirits for the first few coats - this keeps it nice and thin. You can rub it into the wood with your fingers or use a small piece of a white tee-shirt. Let each coat dry overnight. Keep building it up - it takes a while till the “magic” happens.
Tru-Oil Gun Stock Finish 3oz. https://a.co/d/8WFmghJ
If you find you built it up till its too glossy for your taste, you simply lightly rub it down with 0000 steel wool to dull to a satin shine.
Tip: only put a pin type hole in the foil top of your Tru-Oil. When storing between projects, put some Handi-Wrap on the foil and then put the cap on. Store it standing on its cap.
Hope this helps,
Ed
View attachment 347768
View attachment 347769
View attachment 347770
View attachment 347771
View attachment 347772
View attachment 347773
View attachment 347774
View attachment 347775
View attachment 347776
Hmm.... i honestly think you may be surprised if you nail the right stain on it.CTair, it looks like you have some really nice wood in that stock. It would be worth it to dial up the finish.
My stock is much, much plainer, but still deserves to have its day under the sun.
MANNNN would you do my airacuda stock for me if I sent it to you? Ive got enough rifles to shoot but that looks phenomenal
View attachment 347779