Refinishing walnut stock advice needed.

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Spaceblue

Spaceblue

Member
Jan 7, 2019
49
1
MA - Massachusetts
Hello all,

A few weeks back I aquired an Air Arms TX 200 III. However I found the finish on my new TX looked dry and bland when I compared it with the finish on others I found on the web. I was also concerned about weather proofing my wood for protecting it in the real world. I want a finish that I can use as intended and not baby or have to worry about every time the going gets a little rough.

So I've been researching this topic to death and am finally seeing the light, or at least making decisions on my direction. My final choice is to use Royal London Oil for the refinishing of my walnut.

Now that I'm assembling my products and supplies to begin this process I've noticed one area where I have not found a lot of instruction. This leads to my question.

How do I deal with and protect/seal the areas of the wood that you don't see? Most instructionals that I've seen tend to skip right over this area. I'm assuming this would have equal importance in protection and preservation of the wood. Willing to listen to any tips or suggestions you folks may have.

Thank you,

Spaceblue 
 
When refinishing stocks I do the places you don't see first. Holes that go the whole way through get plugged filled with oil then drained. Holes like screw holes of swivel lug holes get filled and emptied. Trigger housing cutouts get done with a brush or cloth. After these are done I concentrate on the visible section of the stock including the barrel channel. One coat of a good oil finish will penetrate and seal as well as two or three. The extra coats give you more luster and wear protection. While several coats are recommended for wear areas one will be sufficient for other areas. Another thing I advise is that no steel wool be used. Get the 3M pads in different colors. The gray are fine and green are medium. Steel wool has a tendency to fragment and imbed in the finish and when you think you are finished you are admiring your work and turn it a certain way and the light hits and there is a fragment of steel wool glimmering like a piece of glitter. For extra protection when turning screws or swivel studs back in you can apply a little bow string wax on the threads which will help seal where the wood is opened up a bit by the taper expanding the hole. Take your time and show us some pics when done.
 
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That's good advice above. I applied several medium coats of RLO to my TX200 and was very pleased with the results. I stopped when a satin sheen was just starting to show. I too applied the RLO heavy on the inletting and cutouts using a brush. After only 2 coats, I feel like it's well protected inside and out. I took before and after pics, but am not able to upload them???
 
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What about stripping.I have a walnut stock and the finish looks like a plain flat and dull stain. Can u even strip a stain?
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OK. if you actually have a walnut stock there is a good possibility that the stock has no stain as walnut needs no stain. Two things darken a stock. One is the wood aging and darkening naturally and the other is the natural ambering of the topcoat, oil bases not water bases or lacquer. I have at times used gun stock finishing oil and put it over a dull finish with only a light scuffing with a 3M pad. To tell whether your stock has only a stain take a drop of water and place it on the stock. If it darkens there you have no protection but if it just looks shiny then it has sealing protection. When stripping a walnut stock I try to stay away from chemical strippers if possible. I use sand paper and lightly sand until the wood looks like unfinished walnut which will be lighter in color than your present color. If needed I will use a chemical stripper very carefully on the checkered areas with a nylon bristled brush. If you have a small dent and the wood fibers aren't cut you can raise it before sanding using a damp piece of cloth and a hot clothing iron. Just remember to sand any areas that get wet before finishing as the moisture will raise the grain. And the most important thing I can tell you is to be patient and take your time. Sand slowly and leave ample time between coats.
 
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What about stripping.I have a walnut stock and the finish looks like a plain flat and dull stain. Can u even strip a stain?
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You need to find out if the stock has an oil rubbed finish. If its an oil rubbed finish like you find on AA and BSA airguns you just need to rub on multiple coats of oil to get the finish to start to shine again. Some people like a flat or matt finish and some like sheen. I prefer a nice oil rubbed finish thats still matt so it doesnt glare in the sun. Boiled linseed oil, tung oil or royal london oil are all good for getting a very nice hand rubbed finish that brings out the natural grain in the wood. They are somewhat easy to apply as well and just require time and patience for each coat to properly soak in. Rubbed oil finishes on wood stocks especially with figure in the wood are the best looking finishes you can have.
 
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. Boiled linseed oil, tung oil or royal london oil are all good for getting a very nice hand rubbed finish that brings out the natural grain in the wood. They are somewhat easy to apply as well and just require time and patience for each coat to properly soak in. Rubbed oil finishes on wood stocks especially with figure in the wood are the best looking finishes you can have.
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I chose to use Royal London Oil because of what I had read about it from others who used it on their TX 200 air guns and compare it's use to blo or tung oil. It was my belief that the RLO was formulated for use spacificly on on an airgun or firearm, where as the others are more traditional wood finishes and better suted for furniture type applications. 

I don't know how all this will turn out. As I say this is a first time attempt for me.



Thank you Green_Yamo for your advise on the inletting.. That was just what I needed to hear.

At this point I'm going to start a new thread on my refinishing endeavor. I plan to post before and after photos so people can comment on my progress.
 
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I have used boiled linseed oil and its a very good oil finish for firearm stocks.
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LDP,

I have spoken with one gentleman who attempted to use BLO on his TX and had issues with his sweat marring the finish while shooting FT on a hot muggy day.

I realize BLO or just plain linseed oil has been used for wood preserving on military firearms for ages. The reports I've read about the performance of RLO are why I have chosen to use it over BLO. 

I thank you for your input though.

Spaceblue.
 
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