Airforce Regulator Choice for Airforce Talon SS

I am the original owner of an older generation pre-Spin Loc Talon SS. I guess my thought process was that I'd like to have a gage that shows the tank pressure and a quick fill Foster port, like on a Spin-Loc, but for the money to update to an official Spin-Loc I might just as well add a little extra money and get a regulator.

The two best choices seem to be the
Huben Power Cricket-MAX-TopHat Regulator with a 50CC plenum

and the plain Cricket 20 cc plenum regulator

In what circumstances does the additional air in a larger plenum make a difference?

I'm handy with tools, but have yet to find photos or a good description of how to remove the original threaded collar from the Talon's frame. Where is / are the set screw(s?) to remove this and how difficult is it?

There is also the Huben Superwell regulator, which looks like a regular Cricket but in silver instead of black.
Anybody know what's different about it other than the color and being almost $20 less expensive?

Huben's U shaped regulators that create a buttstock and an even larger plenum look interesting, but more money than I'd want to spend at this time.
I have read mentions of other regulators from PCP Tunes, but I can't find the web site, so that appears to be out of business, and regulators from I think Doug Noems but again, didn't find a store with his products. If there are other good choices you've been satisfied with, I'd be interested in reading about them. Whatever I get, I want gages for both tank pressure and regulated pressure and a Foster fitting. AliExpress has less expensive regulators, but I've read comments that it's a gamble whether they'll maintain the same regulator setting over time.
 
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so there's another place that used to sell a lot of airforce after market stuff.. talon tunes.. I remember seeing regulator on their website.. at one time they even had a drop-down regulator combo.. that would be ideal for me because I have to use risers and extra tall rings, otherwise I can't get aligned to the scope or open sights.. yes I actually have a old set of fiber optic open sights that were made by airforce.
back to the regulator, depends on caliber and what power level you want for the pelenium size..larger caliber and or more power you need the larger pelenium especially if you shoot slugs.. nothing wrong with too big of pelenium but if it is too small you won't be able to get the power you want.
Mark
 
I am the original owner of an older generation pre-Spin Loc Talon SS. I guess my thought process was that I'd like to have a gage that shows the tank pressure and a quick fill Foster port, like on a Spin-Loc, but for the money to update to an official Spin-Loc I might just as well add a little extra money and get a regulator.

The two best choices seem to be the
Huben Power Cricket-MAX-TopHat Regulator with a 50CC plenum

and the plain Cricket 20 cc plenum regulator

In what circumstances does the additional air in a larger plenum make a difference?

I'm handy with tools, but have yet to find photos or a good description of how to remove the original threaded collar from the Talon's frame. Where is / are the set screw(s?) to remove this and how difficult is it?

There is also the Huben Superwell regulator, which looks like a regular Cricket but in silver instead of black.
Anybody know what's different about it other than the color and being almost $20 less expensive?

Huben's U shaped regulators that create a buttstock and an even larger plenum look interesting, but more money than I'd want to spend at this time.
I have read mentions of other regulators from PCP Tunes, but I can't find the web site, so that appears to be out of business, and regulators from I think Doug Noems but again, didn't find a store with his products. If there are other good choices you've been satisfied with, I'd be interested in reading about them. Whatever I get, I want gages for both tank pressure and regulated pressure and a Foster fitting. AliExpress has less expensive regulators, but I've read comments that it's a gamble whether they'll maintain the same regulator setting over time.
Actually the best combo is the Cricket Max-ATH and a high flow AF valve. You get the 50CC plenum and the increased air flow.

I run my .22 Talon with a heavy spring, 90g hammer at 1800Psi with that setup and get 850FPS with 25.4gr Apolo and JSB pellets.

I cranked it to 3000psi with the power wheel at 10 and got 1100FPS and 50FPE
 
Thanks for both of your responses. Nick at Huben power recommended the universal variant of the Max-ATH.

That way I wouldn't have to mess with changing out the threaded insert in the Talon frame and I'd still have a burst disc in the valve - I don't think there is one in the regulator.

It's the same price here at High Pressure Pneumatics
https://myhighpressureair.com/huben-power-cricket-max-ath-with-50cc-plenum/
as at Huben itself and the shipping would only be around $7.00

How much does the regulator add to the length of pull? I'm already measuring about 14.5" from the trigger to the bottle's "butt"
 
Thanks for both of your responses. Nick at Huben power recommended the universal variant of the Max-ATH.

That way I wouldn't have to mess with changing out the threaded insert in the Talon frame and I'd still have a burst disc in the valve - I don't think there is one in the regulator.

It's the same price here at High Pressure Pneumatics
https://myhighpressureair.com/huben-power-cricket-max-ath-with-50cc-plenum/
as at Huben itself and the shipping would only be around $7.00

How much does the regulator add to the length of pull? I'm already measuring about 14.5" from the trigger to the bottle's "butt"
Cricket Max-ATH is 5"
With a 500cc bottle it is 16"
50cc isn't a whole lot for big bore.

20250309_234308.jpg
 
BTW you can build up a much larger plenum with parts from Huben. Their unregulated M18 U and 300mm M18 tube with the MAX-ATH should give around 125cc plenum. 50cc + 75cc
pi*(9*9)*300=76
Plus the volume of the M18 U

I'll know how it works when they ship me the parts I ordered last week. Not sure how long a bottle will work in that setup. I've only got a Talon and Condor so this is overkill.

There is a .308 Texan on Gunbroker.com up for auction, but another bidder REALLY wants that rifle.
 
Actually the best combo is the Cricket Max-ATH and a high flow AF valve. You get the 50CC plenum and the increased air flow.
I will probably not buy a separate high flow valve - at least not for a long while. Although Nick, the rep at Huben suggested the version that takes the original AF valve, when Air Shootist
was reviewing the version with the top hat, he was getting pretty good speeds on a .25 cal Condor, so the Huben top hat valve must be fairly high flow, plus it's the adjustable top hat.

Have any of you removed the threaded sleeve from a pre-Spin Loc rifle to convert it to Spin-Loc? I was wondering where the set screw(s) are that hold the threaded insert in place and how hard it was to remove the 7/8-14 insert that the valve screws into. Drilling and tapping the frame for an additional set screw isn't a problem; I have the tools and am used to doing such things.
 
I will probably not buy a separate high flow valve - at least not for a long while. Although Nick, the rep at Huben suggested the version that takes the original AF valve, when Air Shootist
was reviewing the version with the top hat, he was getting pretty good speeds on a .25 cal Condor, so the Huben top hat valve must be fairly high flow, plus it's the adjustable top hat.

Have any of you removed the threaded sleeve from a pre-Spin Loc rifle to convert it to Spin-Loc? I was wondering where the set screw(s) are that hold the threaded insert in place and how hard it was to remove the 7/8-14 insert that the valve screws into. Drilling and tapping the frame for an additional set screw isn't a problem; I have the tools and am used to doing such things.
I actually find the Spin-Loc annoying when using regulators.
I have the kit, got as far as "drill the frame" and went "nope".
 
I actually find the Spin-Loc annoying when using regulators.
I have the kit, got as far as "drill the frame" and went "nope".
Thanks for your help and the video. I couldn't find anything similar on the internet illustrating that the Regulator would swivel. Rachel at AirForce was kind enough to send me the instructions for installation of their Spin-Loc retrofit kit, which I've attached for anyone who comes upon this thread with the same questions I had. They mention nothing about drilling the frame now. I don't know why they don't mention replacing the two set screws in the bottom of the frame which held the original sleeve in.

Huben's top hat model is actually $10 less than the universal model where you re-use your own valve. I wonder if thier top had model uses a standard valve design so that if I ever decided to get a higher flow valve (unlikely, but you never know) it wouldn't be difficult to source a higher flow valve.

View attachment 1-Retro Spin-Loc Sleeve Installation.pdf
 
I have a Dream valve which is a drop block and the Max-ATH Universal. Since my guns are highly modified with heavy springs and heavy hammers I wanted the high flow valve installed. I can run the Universal 400PSI lower than the Dream valve and get the same FPE. The 50cc plenum is more than 4X the barrel volume so the pellet remains under acceleration the length of the barrel. The Dream has a 25cc plenum and the pressure drops sooner so you have to start with a higher pressure to get the same FPS at the end of the barrel.

I received another MAX-ATH the other day. But I have another of my crazy ideas for which it will be used.
 
I decided to use my own Talon valve and went with the Max-ATH universal regulator, sold by High Pressure Pneumatics from Michigan

The shipping was only $7.82 which beats the $33 charged from the Huben site itself and both places had the same price for the regulator.
 
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I decided to use my own Talon valve and went with the Max-ATH universal regulator, sold by High Pressure Pneumatics from Michigan

The shipping was only $7.82 which beats the $33 charged from the Huben site itself and both places had the same price for the regulator.
Good choice, opens up more upgrade paths.
 
---snip--- They mention nothing about drilling the frame now. I don't know why they don't mention replacing the two set screws in the bottom of the frame which held the original sleeve in.
---snip---
It may be that the spin-loc doesn't really need a set screw if one tightens it enough. But that tight might be more than the little spanner wrench that comes with the spin-loc can handle, especially for loosening it again someday.