HW/Weihrauch Rekord trigger adjustments

I wrote this for another forum this morning. I figured it might be appreciated here as well.


There are three adjustments on a Rekord trigger.

The first and least known is the metal tab that hangs down from the housing in front of the trigger blade. That's used to adjust first stage travel. Bending that tab backwards will reduce first stage travel to almost nothing. It's a good cheat to set back the triggers resting position so it's more reachable. It does nothing to change the break point. I don't recommend eliminating all first stage travel because it helps prevent bump fires on a trigger that's set too light. This tab is easiest to adjust with the trigger guard removed.

The second adjustment is the big soft aluminum screw behind the blade. This is the most used adjustment. Hence there's a hole in the trigger guard to access it. Turning the screw out reduces trigger pull weight. Turning it in obviously increases it. It's said that turning it out too far can result in the trigger not reseting. I've never experienced that, but I've had where turning it out too much causes the trigger to lose first stage return from the second stage wall. Basically if you come back to the second stage without firing the trigger blade dangles loose and doesn't spring back to the first stage position. Every rekord trigger has its own limit to how light you can get the trigger down to with this adjustment screw. Most will get down to a pound or a little less.

The third adjustment is the Torx 8 screw. It's accessible only with the trigger guard off. For good reason this screw is know as the "Forbidden Srew". This screw can get you in a lot of trouble. Trust me on this there's a pellet in my old shop ceiling and neighbors garage to prove it.

This "forbidden screw" adjusts the sear engagement. If you turn this screw in too far the trigger will not set. Turning the screw in reduces sear engagement. This reduces second stage trigger creep and to small degree pull weight. There's a circular window cut out of the housing where sear engagement can be checked. Even though that window exist the trigger behaves differently under the spring pressure of a cocked rifle. A trigger that tests ok out of the rifle may fire the instant you take the safety off. Or it may bump fire in actual use when it didn't out of the gun. If you dare mess with this adjustment I recommend you make adjustments in eighth turns or less. Changes are drastic and come quickly.

I'm not going to address stoning and polishing because I don't do it unless there's a visible flaw or uneven wear. I believe there's more to be lost than gained doing this. Some people swear it makes a huge difference. Frankly I've never noticed that but that could just be me. Without polishing I get most of my rekords down to a smooth clean 8-10oz break. I've gotten a couple down to a safe 5oz. Safe as in won't bump fire.

The rekord trigger is a pretty magnificent piece of engineering if you consider the amount of pressure it has to restrain compared to the amount of pressure it takes to release it. Officially I don't recommend you mess with your triggers and I don't for others. Use this information At your own risk.

HTH
Ron
 
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I got an HW55 once someone had taken all the first stage out of and adjusted the sear engagement (forbidden screw) to near nothing. The first thing that happened was a bump fire......with the barrel OPEN! Luckily the gun was full of black tar that had turned hard and was only generating fps in the 300's, i.e., the barrel was very sluggish to return to the closed position and no harm was done.
 
I got an HW55 once someone had taken all the first stage out of and adjusted the sear engagement (forbidden screw) to near nothing. The first thing that happened was a bump fire......with the barrel OPEN! Luckily the gun was full of black tar that had turned hard and was only generating fps in the 300's, i.e., the barrel was very sluggish to return to the closed position and no harm was done.
talk about lucky!
 
Thanks much for this succint and accurate description! I enthusiastically support your cautions re: sear engagement varying when under full mainspring pressure.

FWIW, on older guns: 1) the "forbidden" sear adjuster screw has a normal slotted head (apparently the factory later found that idiots were less likely to own Torx drivers?); 2) the first stage tab is often broken off - it has limited tolerance for too much bending.
 
Thanks much for this succint and accurate description! I enthusiastically support your cautions re: sear engagement varying when under full mainspring pressure.

FWIW, on older guns: 1) the "forbidden" sear adjuster screw has a normal slotted head (apparently the factory later found that idiots were less likely to own Torx drivers?); 2) the first stage tab is often broken off - it has limited tolerance for too much bending.
Both situations prove, fools and tools don't mix well.
 
I wrote this for another forum this morning. I figured it might be appreciated here as well.


There are three adjustments on a Rekord trigger.

The first and least known is the metal tab that hangs down from the housing in front of the trigger blade. That's used to adjust first stage travel. Bending that tab backwards will reduce first stage travel to almost nothing. It's a good cheat to set back the triggers resting position so it's more reachable. It does nothing to change the break point. I don't recommend eliminating all first stage travel because it helps prevent bump fires on a trigger that's set too light. This tab is easiest to adjust with the trigger guard removed.

The second adjustment is the big soft aluminum screw behind the blade. This is the most used adjustment. Hence there's a hole in the trigger guard to access it. Turning the screw out reduces trigger pull weight. Turning it in obviously increases it. It's said that turning it out too far can result in the trigger not reseting. I've never experienced that, but I've had where turning it out too much causes the trigger to lose first stage return from the second stage wall. Basically if you come back to the second stage without firing the trigger blade dangles loose and doesn't spring back to the first stage position. Every rekord trigger has its own limit to how light you can get the trigger down to with this adjustment screw. Most will get down to a pound or a little less.

The third adjustment is the Torx 9 screw. It's accessible only with the trigger guard off. For good reason this screw is know as the "Forbidden Srew". This screw can get you in a lot of trouble. Trust me on this there's a pellet in my old shop ceiling and neighbors garage to prove it.

This "forbidden screw" adjusts the sear engagement. If you turn this screw in too far the trigger will not set. Turning the screw in reduces sear engagement. This reduces second stage trigger creep and to small degree pull weight. There's a circular window cut out of the housing where sear engagement can be checked. Even though that window exist the trigger behaves differently under the spring pressure of a cocked rifle. A trigger that tests ok out of the rifle may fire the instant you take the safety off. Or it may bump fire in actual use when it didn't out of the gun. If you dare mess with this adjustment I recommend you make adjustments in eighth turns or less. Changes are drastic and come quickly.

I'm not going to address stoning and polishing because I don't do it unless there's a visible flaw or uneven wear. I believe there's more to be lost than gained doing this. Some people swear it makes a huge difference. Frankly I've never noticed that but that could just be me. Without polishing I get most of my rekords down to a smooth clean 8-10oz break. I've gotten a couple down to a safe 5oz. Safe as in won't bump fire.

The rekord trigger is a pretty magnificent piece of engineering if you consider the amount of pressure it has to restrain compared to the amount of pressure it takes to release it. Officially I don't recommend you mess with your triggers and I don't for others. Use this information At your own risk.

HTH
Ron
I have read this before!
Deja vu?
 
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Every fraction you reduce the first stage also reduces the sear engagement incrementally because the Rekord is a true 2 stage. The first stage does in fact move the sear closer to release.

I’ve purchased used guns with dangerously misadjusted triggers. Be very cautious first time you cock them.
The last two guns I bought discharged as soon as I even touched the trigger.
A pre safety R7 and the Webley Stingray .25



I’ve seen 2 or more trigger tension springs smashed flat. I had to straighten this one until I was able to replace it. Stretched it back out and then slid it over a scribe so I could peen it in shape to be usable temporarily.
Be certain you “Understand what you know” before you monkey with your trigger. 👍
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The third adjustment is the Torx 9 screw. It's accessible only with the trigger guard off
This screw is the important adjustment one on the trigger. Turn it in just a minute or two at a time. Reassemble ,cock and while holding the barrel back, try the trigger. Do not cock, load, close and shoot. It could go off on the closing or movement. The screw can be difficult to turn in. I would warn that decades ago when turning this screw in, the threaded housing it’s screwed into, cracked under the pressure from the screw. It acts like a pipe thread. As if it is tapered.
 
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Every fraction you reduce the first stage also reduces the sear engagement incrementally because the Rekord is a true 2 stage. The first stage does in fact move the sear closer to release.

I’ve purchased used guns with dangerously misadjusted triggers. Be very cautious first time you cock them.
The last two guns I bought discharged as soon as I even touched the trigger.
A pre safety R7 and the Webley



I’ve seen 2 or more trigger tension springs smashed flat. I had to straighten this one until I was able to replace it. Stretched it back out and then slid it over a scribe so I could peen it in shape to be usable temporarily.
Be certain you “Understand what you know” before you monkey with your trigger. 👍
View attachment 531827View attachment 531826View attachment 531825
FYI that's the same exact spring Weihrauch uses to tension the nylon glide on the modern Hw50s (Hw99). I have extras because I remove them from every 50 I tune.
 
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Very helpful info, but those last few sentences in bold are my key takeaway. I pretty much just leave the triggers as they came from the factory with my HWs. I think I've only needed to really adjust one. All others (i.e., 5-6) work just fine after tens of thousands of shots.
R
They typically wear polish, so they usually get smoother with use. My guns with the smoothest triggers are the ones I shoot the most. Shooting them will never change pull weight or creep. Some people do fine with however their triggers came on the rifle and others are super duper fussy about triggers. I'm somewhere in the middle.
 
I've wondered if someone with more skills than me could solder or epoxy on a replacement stage-length tab...and maybe even drill/tap it for a little adjuster screw?
A piece that holds an adjustment screw could easily be sweated on.
That means soldered for some who might not know.
Would it still fit inside the stock? Might have to be relieved a bit.
You will lose a portion of the safety factor the first stage provides. What model does this trigger fit? What stock in particular?
 
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