Repainting my stock, have a question to those that have done it

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Oh, forgot to mention- after a wipe down with that ACRYLI-CLEAN, one final wipe with a tack cloth. Paint guy said to hang my parts first, then wipe down with tack cloth and don’t handle it anymore. Nothing touches the parts except the top coat.
 
Yes that product will work fine to wipe down after sanding your primer. Normally after I sand primer I wash my hands thoroughly with Dawn and hot water, and wipe down the sanded pieces with the Denatured Alcohol because it leaves no residue and evaporates instantly. I am not comfortable wearing the Nitrile gloves so I am careful about what I touch when I am prepping a piece for paint. Eg. don't touch your face or nose and then your work piece because you will transfer oil onto it and the paint will "fisheye" and at that point you will want to kick a big dent in the garage door! :) I will show you some pics of painting my Wildcat stock...

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I even painted the side wheel for my scope to match my stock. It is a cheap Leapers side wheel that I made the hole in the center larger with my Dremel Tool.

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In these pictures you can see how my Wildcat sits down flush to the table on the pistol grip and rear of stock. To accomplish that I taped a couple long pieces of sandpaper to the glass top table and put the bipod feet on a piece of paper so they would slide back and forth. Then I sanded off about 3/8" from the bottom of the pistol grip and about and inch or more from the bottom of the rear of the stock and hard rubber pad. Last I used Spray 77 to glue a piece of bicycle inner tube to the bottom of the pistol grip and stock butt so they would be non slip. Now she sits with four points touching and the grip and stock butt are flush so she is no longer "tippy" and I don't have to worry about her falling over at the slightest bump of the shooting table.

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By the way, on the sides of your pistol grip there are insets, and on the rear of the stock there is what looks like a stylized lightning bolt...you might think about masking around those areas after your main color is finished and paint those areas a contrast color to emphasize them better... something wild looking! And remember, it's just paint! If you get tired of it just paint it a different color later. 
 
Thanks, Imold. Trying to keep positive on this whole thing, lol. I am enjoying it, though.



Chuck, thanks for checking on what the paint store folks are selling me, lol. Appreciate all the rid bit advice. You definately know your stuff, and your work shows it. One of these days maybe something in a PCP will be made out of sheet metal that requires layout, lol, and I can then offer up my expertise.

ill keep you posted on the final top coat outcome tomorrow. I wish you wouldn’t have mentioned the detail work on the pistol grip and lightning bolt.... now my OCD is kicking in!
 
Looks great so far...now touch the wire hanger or masking tape with your finger tip...if the paint is good and tacky like glue then go ahead and spray a good solid wet coat. The first one will prevent the second one from running because it will grab it and not let it run. This first tack coat and second wet coat will dry and cure in together. Leave it alone for a couple days to completely cure, and if you think it needs another coat then give it one...otherwise call it done!! :)


 
... and if you decide to mask around the details on your stock and paint them a contrast color wait about a week to do so. And make sure you use the right masking tape...Home Depot has the yellow Frog Tape especially for freshly painted areas...so use it or something like it and do a test spot to make sure it won't pull off your paint when you remove it! 
 
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Chuck is right. It's only paint and use lots of elbow grease.
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And you can make 'em look like a million bucks!!! I do suggest a good clear coat. All my guns/parts etc. are RATTLE CAN paint jobs but clear coat keeps the scratches hidden as when it does get scratched or dinged you can sand it out as long as the damage did not penetrate all the way through the clear coat with a little buffing usually. Great clear coat paint can be had at any hardware store and it comes in GLOSSY, SEMI GLOSSY, or a Matte or satin finish. Think of it as sunscreen for your paint. The added advantage is that your trigger finger is getting strength training while pushing the little button on top of the can which will make you shoot perfect groups when finished LOL.
 
Looks good Bigragu, can’t wait to see it re assembled.





Unfortunately you had a learning curve to overcome and you did a good job doing it 👍,for some of us it just a natural because we have done it before and Chuck did a nice job on getting you thru the process, again 👍, I’m not a very good teacher 👎 it’s just easier for me to just do it, guess that’s why I’m not a teacher😁.
 
Thanks, Imold. You, my friend are more of a motivator to keep me plugging away at my Bully. I think I may have a fix solved that will get rid of the flex that the bottle cover transfers up to the scope rail. I’ve got about three plans in the works, and two of them delete the use of the bottle cover. Keep you posted.

Ironman! Let me guess- iron worker, correct? Wow! Crazy paint jobs right there! The Marauder I think is cool! Very original. 

I cannot apply a clear coat on my top coat, as the paint shop already incorporated that in when they custom made it. I’m glad I checked though, by shooting a spray of clear coat over a painted chip card they gave me, and it immediately spider webbed the paint on the chip card. Glad I checked.

so, my topcoat already has a medium sheen to it. I know it’s not a clear coat, but oh, well.