Benjamin [RESOLVED] Are these good picks as my first Marauder .22 pellets?

You would need to do quite a bit to your rifle to utilize the heavier pellets at velocities you would want, 800 to 900 fps. Modding the valve, bigger porting and transfer port, FFH or SSG, possibly a JSAR or Tim Hill valve. And your shot count will drop off. It is all a compromise, with greater power comes fewer shots. An opinion, if you wanted to shoot 25+ grain pellets you should have gotten the .25 caliber.

I think you will find the JSB 18s and similar will do very well for you, accurate and hit hard. Hunting and target.

Tim Hill Airguns:


JSAR (the aluminum air tubes are in stock!!!!!):


Air Gun Revisions (AGR), this fellow knows how to tune a Marauder:


My M-Rod .25s, all highly modded, these shoot in the 44 to 60 fpe range:

Thanks so much for the info and websites. I have no idea what any of that stuff is...I'm going to need to learn the anatomy of this gun :)
 
It took me a while to appreciate somethings very basic about pellet rifles. Pellets simply do not like to go fast, 900 to 940 fps give or take a little is maximum practical speed. Not like a powder burner where we can push a bullet to 3,000 or even 4,000 fps and still retain accuracy (rifle, caliber dependent). Pellets just do not work that way and apparently neither do slugs. The Marauder, like most pellet intended rifles has a choked barrel. Just does not usually do well with slugs. Pellets yes, slugs, probably not. So, you/we are stuck between a rock and a hard place. An 18 grain pellet driven at 900 fps will give you 33.3 fpe. Push it faster and loose accuracy. Go to a heavier pellet and without some pretty good modifications your velocity drops off, that same rifle and tune will then push a 25 grain pellet only 775 fps, a loss of 125 fps and is going to have the same 33.3 fpe. Then there is the equation and it's derivatives Force = Pressure X Area. The larger caliber bore has more area, so can produce more force for a given pressure. It is not so simple though, heavier pellets will often produce a little more efficiency and fpe. They are in the barrel longer and the valve might close before the pellet exists thus the erifle is more efficinet whereas a faster pellet might be gone and the valve (dwell) still open, wasting air. The rifle must be tuned to the weight and type of projectile for best efficiency and energy or shot count. And the above is a gross simplification.

Your .22 M-Rod as it comes from the factory is set to run in the low 30s fpe. For that energy range, pellets of 16 to 18 grains seem about right. But, I do not have a M-Rod .22, so I am making some educated (?) guess work.

This is a useful calculator:


Turkeys with an air rifle? Beats me. I would think a head or neck shot would be needed using a .22? I do not know the regulations regarding air rifles and turkey hunting.
 
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It took me a while to appreciate somethings very basic about pellet rifles. Pellets simply do not like to go fast, 900 to 940 fps give or take a little is maximum practical speed. Not like a powder burner where we can push a bullet to 3,000 or even 4,000 fps and still retain accuracy (rifle, caliber dependent). Pellets just do not work that way and apparently neither do slugs. The Marauder, like most pellet intended rifles has a choked barrel. Just does not usually do well with slugs. Pellets yes, slugs, probably not. So, you/we are stuck between a rock and a hard place. An 18 grain pellet driven at 900 fps will give you 33.3 fpe. Push it faster and loose accuracy. Go to a heavier pellet and without some pretty good modifications your velocity drops off, that same rifle and tune will then push a 25 grain pellet only 775 fps, a loss of 125 fps and is going to have the same 33.3 fpe. Then there is the equation and it's derivatives Force = Pressure X Area. The larger caliber bore has more area, so can produce more force for a given pressure. It is not so simple though, heavier pellets will often produce a little more efficiency and fpe. They are in the barrel longer and the valve might close before the pellet exists thus the erifle is more efficinet whereas a faster pellet might be gone and the valve (dwell) still open, wasting air. The rifle must be tuned to the weight and type of projectile for best efficiency and energy or shot count. And the above is a gross simplification.

Your .22 M-Rod as it comes from the factory is set to run in the low 30s fpe. For that energy range, pellets of 16 to 18 grains seem about right. But, I do not have a M-Rod .22, so I am making some educated (?) guess work.

This is a useful calculator:


Turkeys with an air rifle? Beats me. I would think a head or neck shot would be needed using a .22? I do not know the regulations regarding air rifles and turkey hunting.
hey thanks so much, this is really interesting.

do things change from "from the factory" when it is the "regulated" model and it has the Lothar Walther barrel?
 
hey thanks so much, this is really interesting.

do things change from "from the factory" when it is the "regulated" model and it has the Lothar Walther barrel?
Yes and no and not really ;). The regulated Marauder is probably less peak power potential than the unregulated rifle. The Lothar barrel is alleged to be more accurate than the Crosman barrel in .22. This is not the case in .25 and the Lothar barrel is not offered and is not needed. The .25 Crosman barrel is generally very accurate. But the Lothar .22 barrel should be very accurate for you. Frankly, I would get the unregulated rifle and if in .22 the Lothar barrel probably if still offered in the unregulated rifle.

Regulated vs unregulated is a whole nuther can of worms to get into. Regulated more shots at more consistent velocity at less power. Unregulated, a Bell Curve (if properly tuned can be very flat), a little more fpe potential if desired, fewer shots in the meat of the curve.
 
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Yes and no and not really ;). The regulated Marauder is probably less peak power potential than the unregulated rifle. The Lothar barrel is alleged to be more accurate than the Crosman barrel in .22. This is not the case in .25 and the Lothar barrel is not offered and is not needed. The .25 Crosman barrel is generally very accurate. But the Lothar .22 barrel should be very accurate for you. Frankly, I would get the unregulated rifle and if in .22 the Lothar barrel probably if still offered in the unregulated rifle.

Regulated vs unregulated is a whole nuther can of worms to get into. Regulated more shots at more consistent velocity at less power. Unregulated, a Bell Curve (if properly tuned can be very flat), a little more fpe potential if desired, fewer shots in the meat of the curve.
gottcha, I see what you're saying. I was already sort of under the impression that maaayybe, not just going stock will have been a waste of money down the line, should I mod the gun. I pretty much got one of their top-of-the-line rifles, and I think the "regulated" thing is basically just a tuning that they did in-house, correct? no additional hardware that I'd need later on anyway? The Lothar Walther barrel might still be nice, but who knows later I might want to get a longer barrel at some point.

Anyway, I'm thinking the configuration that I bought will be a really nice, newb-friendly setup out of the box and wont need to touch it mod or maintenance wise (hopefully) unless I want to. The consistency should be nice.

Later on, if I decide to mod it, then it will have been a waste of money sort of, but hey at least I had a smooth entry in to the hobby.

That's a nice collection you have btw. Clearly you're a fan if the Marauder.

edit: do you think it's a good idea to do any cleaning or servicing to the gun upon receiving it? I was looking at the cleaning pellets, for example. Supposedly the gun is hand assembled in the United States, so I'd like to think it will be give a once-over before boxing it up, but still curious about unsavory machine or factory particles/oils I might want to consider clearing out.
 
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I pretty much got one of their top-of-the-line rifles, and I think the "regulated" thing is basically just a tuning that they did in-house, correct? no additional hardware that I'd need later on anyway?


The Lothar Walther barrel might still be nice, but who knows later I might want to get a longer barrel at some point.



edit: do you think it's a good idea to do any cleaning or servicing to the gun upon receiving it? I was looking at the cleaning pellets, for example. Supposedly the gun is hand assembled in the United States, so I'd like to think it will be give a once-over before boxing it up, but still curious about unsavory machine or factory particles/oils I might want to consider clearing out.
From an earlier question you had, "diablo" is the shape of a pellet. The hour glass or badminton birdie shape of a typical pellet is referred to as a diablo pellet regardless of the manufacturer.

A regulated rifle has a regulator that drops the reservoir pressure to some lesser pressure ahead of the exhaust valve. Yes, there is a difference and the primary one being the regulator. The higher shot count comes at the expense of a reduced energy.

A longer barrel would need to be custom made, not sure where to source one, AGR perhaps. You are buying the regulated .22, just get the Lothar battery and be happy. It does not need a longer barrel because the regulated .22 Marauder is only a 24 fpe rifle. I am going to change my mind on the pellets for this rifle now fully realizing you are buying the regulated version, nothing over 15 or 16 grains, 18 at very top and the velocity will be quite low. Per Crosman that rifle shoots the 14.3 grain lead pellet at 850 fps which is about 23 fpe.

The Benjamin Marauder is a USA built rifle. Crosman functions tests and leak checks the rifle and packs it with a test target, at least the one I bought did have a test target. You can get custom tuned, non-regulated rifles here:


For hunting purpose, anything above squirrels, I would not get a factory regulated Marauder, just an opinion. While two of my rifles are regulated (Houma aftermarket) they are highly modified $$$, aftermarket valves or modified valves, huge porting, different hammer systems, they are really not a Marauder anymore.

If you gather I am not sold on the factory regulated rifles, that would be correct ;). That is because I am mostly hunting and pesting and do not shoot paper except to sight in the scope and function and zero check now and then.


The only cleaning that needs to be done is to run a patch down the barrel with Ballistol a few times and then dry patch it. Or just take it out of the box and go shoot it, it has already been shot at least once at the factory. Enjoy your new rifle, have fun.
 
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Thanks. I forgot to mention this, but does it matter than it's the "regulated" model?

the thought process for me, was lighter grain for long range/plinking and heavy grain for closer shots at turkey's. like probably like probably 8-10 meters max if I had to guess for turkey
Now you’re finding the problem with asking for advice on any forum. Everybody has a different solution.

Get a small variety of 14 to 21 grain round headed pellets and find out what your gun likes… accuracy wise. You’ll find lighter pellets shoot faster, heavier pellets slower. The energy will be close to the same. Decide which weight gives you the best balance between speed and energy that makes you happy. Accuracy is always the goal.

As you get more personal , hands on , experience and continue to gather more information about what’s available for your gun, you’ll be able to make decisions to answer your own questions. Stop depending on others to GIVE you answers. There’s no shortcut to keep you from shooting a lot of pellets.

BTW… let me know how getting that turkey in to 8-10 meters works out.
 
From an earlier question you had, "diablo" is the shape of a pellet. The hour glass or badminton birdie shape of a typical pellet is referred to as a diablo pellet regardless of the manufacturer.

A regulated rifle has a regulator that drops the reservoir pressure to some lesser pressure ahead of the exhaust valve. Yes, there is a difference and the primary one being the regulator. The higher shot count comes at the expense of a reduced energy.

A longer barrel would need to be custom made, not sure where to source one, AGR perhaps. You are buying the regulated .22, just get the Lothar battery and be happy. It does not need a longer barrel because the regulated .22 Marauder is only a 24 fpe rifle. I am going to change my mind on the pellets for this rifle now fully realizing you are buying the regulated version, nothing over 15 or 16 grains, 18 at very top and the velocity will be quite low. Per Crosman that rifle shoots the 14.3 grain lead pellet at 850 fps which is about 23 fpe.

The Benjamin Marauder is a USA built rifle. Crosman functions tests and leak checks the rifle and packs it with a test target, at least the one I bought did have a test target. You can get custom tuned, non-regulated rifles here:


For hunting purpose, anything above squirrels, I would not get a factory regulated Marauder, just an opinion. While two of my rifles are regulated (Houma aftermarket) they are highly modified $$$, aftermarket valves or modified valves, huge porting, different hammer systems, they are really not a Marauder anymore.

If you gather I am not sold on the factory regulated rifles, that would be correct ;). That is because I am mostly hunting and pesting and do not shoot paper except to sight in the scope and function and zero check now and then.


The only cleaning that needs to be done is to run a patch down the barrel with Ballistol a few times and then dry patch it. Or just take it out of the box and go shoot it, it has already been shot at least once at the factory. Enjoy your new rifle, have fun.
Damn! The rabbit hole is deep!

My first rifle is in the mail; I already want a second rifle :ROFLMAO:

Truth is, wish I would have found this forum before I purchased! You guys know your stuff - thank you.

I think I'll love this gun, but I wanted something more of a hunting PCP rifle. this sort of seems like ridiculously high end BB gun.
🙃

Welcome to the hobby am I right lol
 
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Now you’re finding the problem with asking for advice on any forum. Everybody has a different solution.

Get a small variety of 14 to 21 grain round headed pellets and find out what your gun likes… accuracy wise. You’ll find lighter pellets shoot faster, heavier pellets slower. The energy will be close to the same. Decide which weight gives you the best balance between speed and energy that makes you happy. Accuracy is always the goal.

As you get more personal , hands on , experience and continue to gather more information about what’s available for your gun, you’ll be able to make decisions to answer your own questions. Stop depending on others to GIVE you answers. There’s no shortcut to keep you from shooting a lot of pellets.

BTW… let me know how getting that turkey in to 8-10 meters works out.
naw it's really not a problem for me. this is great. I'd rather get a variety of opinion and get a consensus, then take one wrong opinion and be sent down a wrong path.
 
Damn! The rabbit hole is deep!

My first rifle is in the mail; I already want a second rifle :ROFLMAO:

Truth is, wish I would have found this forum before I purchased! You guys know your stuff - thank you.

I think I'll love this gun, but I wanted something more of a hunting PCP rifle. this sort of seems like ridiculously high end BB gun.
🙃

Welcome to the hobby am I right lol


Welcome 🤘
I’m newer to the hobby myself. It’s definitely a rabbit hole haha. It’s a really fun hobby, I’m sure you’ll be hooked. I was shocked at how accurate they are when I started. Quiet too!
I think you picked a great first gun. M-Rods are a simple proven design.Easy to work on or tinker with, if that’s something you’re into. That 5 year warranty is sure hard to beat to.
Im in the process of buying parts and tinkering with my P-Rod(pistol version of yours)now. Thats another rabbit hole for ya haha. I’ll probably end up turning a $400 p-rod into a $800+ one. I’m enjoying it so that’s all that matters.

Feel free to reach out and let me know how it shoots. I enjoy talking to other Airgun addicts 🤣
Happy Shooting 🤘

Rob
 
hey thanks so much, this is really interesting.

do things change from "from the factory" when it is the "regulated" model and it has the Lothar Walther barrel?
tegridy, You're getting a lot of good advice here . My .02 , give up on turkey w/ your airgun , it is a bird that needs a lot more power and "oomph " from a gun than we are discussing at the moment . I've known many old & not so old hunters that shot PA birds w/ .22 rimfire ( some several times ) and never recovered them . I just recently acquired a Field Target Marauder from Airgun Revisions. I have several other PCPs . I 've found ( as stated elsewhere ) the Crosman HP's do well & are low priced . JSB , JTS & H&N 's 15- 18 gr pellets are no brainers and shoot at respectable speeds for head shots on pests to 40 yrd.s . I have other guns for larger ( groundhogs ) targets set up . My advice is to pick one or two pellets that shoot close to the same POI and be happy , learn the gun / ammo combination well , move on & have fun ! When / if you want to shoot turkey , give the game a fair shake by "using enough gun" along w/ a hit in a good kill spot to do the job DRT ! I know there will be flack from some about all the more energy or accuracy needed for certain things , like head shots ,etc , but having watched & hunted turkeys for many years , those heads are not stationary very long !! Just food for thought .
 
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Welcome 🤘
I’m newer to the hobby myself. It’s definitely a rabbit hole haha. It’s a really fun hobby, I’m sure you’ll be hooked. I was shocked at how accurate they are when I started. Quiet too!
I think you picked a great first gun. M-Rods are a simple proven design.Easy to work on or tinker with, if that’s something you’re into. That 5 year warranty is sure hard to beat to.
Im in the process of buying parts and tinkering with my P-Rod(pistol version of yours)now. Thats another rabbit hole for ya haha. I’ll probably end up turning a $400 p-rod into a $800+ one. I’m enjoying it so that’s all that matters.

Feel free to reach out and let me know how it shoots. I enjoy talking to other Airgun addicts 🤣
Happy Shooting 🤘

Rob

Rabbit holes indeed, I turned my 500$ marauder into a $1,500 one lol. No regrets!

My list of mods:

Aluminum pressure tube (outsourced) 200$
Custom 5 gram UHMW hammer (self) 10$
Custom pilot valve (outsourced) priceless
Custom SSG carrriers (self) 30$
Custom hammer spring/ssg rear access plug/screw (5/8-18) (self) 70$
Valve hogged/bored to .5" and .225" (self) free
Custom power wheel to adjust the transfer path choke versus OEM VMS (self) 30$
Custom shroud cut down in between barrel band to allow detachable mods (self) 50$
Prod trigger group/frame (self) 50$
Lane regulator (self) 100$
Custom Transfer port that terminates in the receiver to allow for quick barrel changes (self) 10$
Custom bolt probe that allows tip changes for the above caliber / barrel changes (self) 30$
Custom adjustable lightweight stock (outsourced+self) 200$
Custom .22 and .177 carm mag's that fit in a .25 cal breech 80$
Custom moderators (some out sourced, some self made) 60$
33cc External plenum (self) 30$
.177 LW/.22 Crosman barrels added to the family along with the .25 GM barrel = 60$

And easily I have over 1k in mods/add ons, as there is much more bits here and there from carbon fiber wrapping, or going over and revisiting a modification and paying to do it twice.

-Matt
 
I think I'll love this gun, but I wanted something more of a hunting PCP rifle. this sort of seems like ridiculously high end BB gun.
🙃
If you wanted a hunting rifle the factory regulated rifle is not what you wanted, an opinion, could be wrong. However, my most powerful M-Rod is regulated (Houma regulator). Being a .25 I can easily tune it between 40 and 60+ fpe. I get 24 flat shots at 54 fpe (three magazines), 16 at 60 fpe:

JSAR side lever
JSAR balanced valve
JSAR TSS and SSG
JSAR aluminum tube
Houma regulator with XXL plenum
Tim Hill pressure gauge block
Green Mountain Benjamin barrel
Custom short shroud
1/2X20 adapter
.196 porting
Custom transfer port (still not satisfied)
DFL Tanto moderator
Custom barrel band

This invasive leprosy ridden bugger was digging under my foundation I had just spent $3,000 on to repair damage from his then deceased buddy. Amazingly I had just mounted the red dot and was finished sighting in and stood up from my bench to go inside and as I turned, there he was at about 15 yards. I worked the side lever and just put my cheek to the scope bell and put the dot on him and squeezed the trigger. The pellet went clean through blowing a chunk out the off side and then skipped on off across the grass still trucking.



The factory regulated Marauder .22 is a fine and accurate rifle for target work, plinking, field competitions but, IMO, not the ticket for hunting. Hardly a BB gun, just not intended for hunting.

And now I have fallen in love with the little 3622, HOSP and small vermin killer extraordinaire, it likes the CPHP and JSB 15 and 18::

 
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If you wanted a hunting rifle the factory regulated rifle is not what you wanted, an opinion, could be wrong. However, my most powerful M-Rod is regulated (Houma regulator). Being a .25 I can easily tune it between 40 and 60+ fpe. I get 24 flat shots at 54 fpe (three magazines), 16 at 60 fpe:

JSAR side lever
JSAR balanced valve
JSAR TSS and SSG
JSAR aluminum tube
Houma regulator with XXL plenum
Tim Hill pressure gauge block
Green Mountain Benjamin barrel
Custom short shroud
1/2X20 adapter
.196 porting
Custom transfer port (still not satisfied)
DFL Tanto moderator
Custom barrel band

This invasive leprosy ridden bugger was digging under my foundation I had just spent $3,000 on to repair damage from his then deceased buddy. Amazingly I had just mounted the red dot and was finished sighting in and stood up from my bench to go inside and as I turned, there he was at about 15 yards. I worked the side lever and just put my cheek to the scope bell and put the dot on him and squeezed the trigger. The pellet went clean through blowing a chunk out the off side and then skipped on off across the grass still trucking.



The factory regulated Marauder .22 is a fine and accurate rifle for target work, plinking, field competitions but, IMO, not the ticket for hunting. Hardly a BB gun, just not intended for hunting.

I could make you a .2" transfer port that is a 1:1 replacement for stock, retaining the stock o-rings. Free of charge. Just let me know. It'll fit like a glove!

-Matt
 
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Rabbit holes indeed, I turned my 500$ marauder into a $1,500 one lol. No regrets!

My list of mods:

Aluminum pressure tube (outsourced) 200$
Custom 5 gram UHMW hammer (self) 10$
Custom pilot valve (outsourced) priceless
Custom SSG carrriers (self) 30$
Custom hammer spring/ssg rear access plug/screw (5/8-18) (self) 70$
Valve hogged/bored to .5" and .225" (self) free
Custom power wheel to adjust the transfer path choke versus OEM VMS (self) 30$
Custom shroud cut down in between barrel band to allow detachable mods (self) 50$
Prod trigger group/frame (self) 50$
Lane regulator (self) 100$
Custom Transfer port that terminates in the receiver to allow for quick barrel changes (self) 10$
Custom bolt probe that allows tip changes for the above caliber / barrel changes (self) 30$
Custom adjustable lightweight stock (outsourced+self) 200$
Custom .22 and .177 carm mag's that fit in a .25 cal breech 80$
Custom moderators (some out sourced, some self made) 60$
33cc External plenum (self) 30$
.177 LW/.22 Crosman barrels added to the family along with the .25 GM barrel = 60$

And easily I have over 1k in mods/add ons, as there is much more bits here and there from carbon fiber wrapping, or going over and revisiting a modification and paying to do it twice.

-Matt
Hahaha it’s only money. Sounds like you done your share of mods and experimenting. If I need some help on my P-Rod maybe I’ll reach out. I’m starting with the basics first. Hammer Spring, Transfer port and B Staley. Will be my first time really doing any tuning to. Should be fun.
Happy Shooting
Rob