RTI Prophet 1 - Standard Fixed Regulator

Hi.. Another RTI question. I tried emailing the RTI guys in Spain, but I think there may have been a translation error..anyway

The question is regarding the positioning of the Foster Fill and the Pressure gauge. All the photos I seen of both the adjustable and standard regs have the Foster and gauge at 90 degrees relative to each other.

Picture of Standard Fixed regulator from the RTI website..
IMG-RTI 125bar Regulator.png


When I received my Prophet1 Standard from them my regulator looks like this...

IMG-RTI-Reg75K.JPG


The Foster and gauge are at 180 degrees to each other.

I need the Foster and gauge to be at 90 degrees. Can I just unscrew and swap the Foster and the hex nut (plug?) marked 75K? Anyone know the o-ring sizes each requires? It really looks like the o-ring under the Foster fill is squished pretty good..or maybe that's rubber cement..IDK.

Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
 
Let me say up front that I have not disassembled an RTI regulator but it looks like a pretty typical paintball tank regulator, in which case please exercise extreme caution.

Standard burst discs are 3/8"-24, whereas Foster fittings and gauges are available in a variety of thread types but 3/8"-24 is not among them. Granted it is certainly possible that RTI is having custom ones made so the Foster fitting and burst disc can swap positions. I kinda doubt it though because it opens the door to creating a potentially unsafe condition when a user unwittingly connects the Foster fitting to the low side of the regulator where a burst disc should be, leaving nothing to protect against an overpressure condition.

So bottom line, be very careful not to mix and match almost-the-same-but-not-quite threads. For example, a burst disc can be threaded rather casually into a 1/8" NPT hole intended for a gauge or Foster fitting. It won't seal because a burst disc seals differently...unless of course you get creative and manage to get it to seal, and now have poorly fitted threads holding thousands of PSI.
 
Here is one of my fixed regs. Yes you can swap the 7.5k burst disc and the foster. See how they are in line with each other? Your 3k burst disc should be screwed into the low pressure side of the reg. Your gauge, foster and 7.5k are all on the high pressure side of the reg.

View attachment 298588
Do you possibly have a picture of the way the shims are supposed to be installed in the reg ? I took it apart and don’t remember.
 
Here is one of my fixed regs. Yes you can swap the 7.5k burst disc and the foster. See how they are in line with each other? Your 3k burst disc should be screwed into the low pressure side of the reg. Your gauge, foster and 7.5k are all on the high pressure side of the reg.

View attachment 298588
This is my regulator
 
And there are 12 in mine. It’s set for 134b.
Which raises a couple of questions for me...

The fixed RTI regs come in 125bar, 150bar, and 175...

Which bar regulator did you start with and did you add or remove the washers to get to 134bar?

If I were to start with my 125bar regulator, would I add or remove washers to drop to 115bar?

Do you have to remove the washers in pairs?
 
Which raises a couple of questions for me...

The fixed RTI regs come in 125bar, 150bar, and 175...

Which bar regulator did you start with and did you add or remove the washers to get to 134bar?

If I were to start with my 125bar regulator, would I add or remove washers to drop to 115bar?

Do you have to remove the washers in pairs?
First, what they claim and where it settles are two different things. He brought the one I still have over with him when he attended EBR years ago, then had AOA ship it to me. My first gen adjustable was giving us fits but I knew 130b was where the gun I had at the time needed to be. It wound up being 134b, no biggie. Second, when you change the set point, you do it with shims. Never touch the washers or arrangement when going up. It’s easy. Now going down in set point is where you start to take some bigger gambles. I would remove one washer and see where it puts you, then go from there. If it drops you too low, then shim your way back up. You also have to understand that shimming isn’t linear. A .005 shim might jump you 10b the first time. But when you add another .005 shim it jumps you 50b.
 
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