Rust eating away gold filter. Is it safe to use?

I took off my gold filter on my hatsan compressor. Inside is a cotton filter. I removed it and inside the gold filter there have been rust from oil and moisture. It seem like it's eating away parts of the metal filter. I use a pick to poke inside where the small rust are and its about 1mm deep. The tube is pretty thick but if rust is eating away the metal, is it safe to keep using? Hatsan doesn't even carry these big compressor anymore. So not sure if they even have replacement parts. I can contact them and hope they still have parts for it.

I heard aluminum doesn't rust. I thought these gold filters are made from aluminum. What are they made of and why is rust eating away the metals.
20220309_191416.1646875502.jpg
20220309_191407.1646875503.jpg
20220309_191135.1646875505.jpg

 
The first thing that comes to mind is possible galvanic corrosion. What is the cap made of? 

Galvanic corrosion can occur where dissimilar metals meet and become exposed to an electrolyte (e.g. water vapor and salts). The gold anodizing helps stave it off but anywhere the anodize layer has been compromised (scratched) is susceptible. That could explain the pitting just past the threads but if the discoloration at the bottom of the vessel is also pitting, I don't know where that came from.
 
The cap looks like it is very likely the same anodized aluminum. Can't be certain but that's how it looks. Thus the pitting is not likely a result of galvanic corrosion. 

So what is the next most likely cause? I don't know, maybe somehow exposure to an acid? Joe Brancato issued a warning a few years ago about the potential for molecular sieve desiccant to leach acid and attack aluminum pressure vessels. I can't vouch for the veracity of it but you can read up on it on GTA.
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=104162.0

By the way, doubtful the finish is paint. Woe unto the manufacturer that would dare paint internal threads. 99.9% sure we are looking at an anodized finish.
 
I would agree with the anodized finish and likely that the molecular sieve got into the places that are corroded.

Anyway yes it will get worse but how much and how fast depends on how well you take care of the filter. Take it apart and clean it every couple/few months to make it lasts a bit longer.

The walls of the filter are quite thick, as you have said, but if the corrosion is 1mm deep it should be watched very closely.


 
There is a divider plate within that cylinder that sits either on top of the cotton media or below it(can’t remember but I’ll find it in my lightning break down pics.) that’s the dissimilar metal. I believe it is stainless.

B2C69C7F-8C72-435F-85CB-8B6E38D735C3.1646925318.jpeg
460C0635-F95D-4353-8171-997A93045510.1646925319.jpeg
0DCD0963-1726-4E62-B95A-1A311DEC9EB6.1646925320.jpeg
E86A5C6E-CAB5-4AB5-B48F-414B35E96BD3.1646925320.jpeg


I showed this same contamination in my rebuild thread from three years ago. You’ll have to source a round cylinder brush and clean it the best you can like I did, and use a shop compressor to blow out any bits and pieces you remove of that gunk. Then do a wipe down with isopropyl alcohol to make sure it’s clean inside.

before you insert the cotton media take a sharpie and write the date down on it(unless you’re good about writing things down in a maintenance log book)

that o ring that’s on the divider plate- do not toss or ruin that o ring as it is not in the repair kit. It can be reused, though
 
Form this side of the computer screen I feel there are deposits being placed in the filter. the majority seems to be in the bottom where the water absorbed is settling between uses. There are microscopic chemicals and dirt in our humidified air. Depends on where you live, humidity, catalytic converter emissions, agriculture spays. Might even be mold.