rusty screws replacement?

Hello all.
I'm sure a few have gone through this after their guns sitting in a case closet or storage.
a couple of my guns the Allen heads are starting to rust not bad as i removed before cleaned oiled with balistol and re installed.
here it comes again. humidity during the spring and summer
so my thought is maybe buy some 304 or 316L marine grade heat treated stainless replacement button heads etc.

I'm also a firm believer in using nikel never seize with any stainless-steel fasteners.
anyone swap there hardware out for stainless? have any issues?
i know some stainless and aluminum don't get along that's why i decided on marine grade like 304 316 heat treated.
im open for suggestions thanks
 
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Sorry I did not read all of the above.I have been dealing with screws, bolts and nuts for many, many decades.Uh the old motorcycle aluminum cases,the hand torque past tight enough.The many, many stripped-out holes or screws I have learned.
When you replace a bolt or screw with a different material, it can change the torque setting or the feel of your hand setting,also the difference in heat ranges.
Proper technique is learned,or better yet looked up and applied.
Airguns should pose no problems, the fact is some airgun suppliers sell stainless steel kits for certain pistols; still need to know what you are doing.
Checking screws,bolts ,etc is part of Proper maintenance.(y)
 
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Sorry I did not read all of the above.I have been dealing with screws, bolts and nuts for many, many decades.Uh the old motorcycle aluminum cases,the hand torque past tight enough.The many, many stripped-out holes or screws I have learned.
When you replace a bolt or screw with a different material, it can change the torque setting or the feel of your hand setting,also the difference in heat ranges.
Proper technique is learned,or better yet looked up and applied.
Airguns should pose no problems, the fact is some airgun suppliers sell stainless steel kits for certain pistols; still need to know what you are doing.
Checking screws,bolts ,etc is part of Proper maintenance.(y)
now that sir is good info thank you very much,
 
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we all have swapped out steel for stainless hardware
you can find black stainless sometimes metric easier than inch Ebay is a good hunting ground
if you can add a very thin washer under the head of the screw it will stop head galling, i do it all the time on scope rings and a little anti seize works
now the subject of motorcycle side cases , ow they were mostly Philips and they put on the same way they came off and that is with a hammer and a handheld impact driver and neither should get near an air gun

find what you need and change what you want i consider it an upgrade
 
All of the bickering within this thread has been removed. If someone asks a question and you insult them you will receive a warning.
I'd like to know how/why the post I made thanking @Firewalker for the link to the screw sizers on Amazon was considered bickering, please.
Thanks and best regards
Edward

PS
If this needs to become a PM, please let me know.
 
316StainlessSteel_FinishedGoods_Graph.svg

One of the most corrosion resistant types of stainless steel, 316 maintains its strength when exposed to the harshest chemicals, including bleach, chlorine, and phosphoric acid. It's a step up from 304, which has similar strength and extreme-temperature performance.Resists corrosion from salt water and harsh chemicals. 316 won't pit and weaken from short-term exposure to chemicals such as the bleach and chlorine in cleaning solutions and the phosphoric acid used in fertilizer production. 316's superior corrosion resistance comes from high molybdenum content, which stops surface pitting.Good strength. With a tensile strength of 70,000 psi, it's strong enough for most jobs. For extreme stress, look to materials such as alloy steel.Withstands extreme temperatures, up to 1500° F and down to -450° F, so it's fit for everything from heat exchangers to liquid nitrogen storage tanks.Harder than aluminum but easier to dent and scratch than alloy steel.May be mildly magnetic. It could interfere with circuit boards and other sensitive electronics. Consider aluminum for a nonmagnetic alternative, but it's not as strong as 316.
 
316StainlessSteel_FinishedGoods_Graph.svg

One of the most corrosion resistant types of stainless steel, 316 maintains its strength when exposed to the harshest chemicals, including bleach, chlorine, and phosphoric acid. It's a step up from 304, which has similar strength and extreme-temperature performance.Resists corrosion from salt water and harsh chemicals. 316 won't pit and weaken from short-term exposure to chemicals such as the bleach and chlorine in cleaning solutions and the phosphoric acid used in fertilizer production. 316's superior corrosion resistance comes from high molybdenum content, which stops surface pitting.Good strength. With a tensile strength of 70,000 psi, it's strong enough for most jobs. For extreme stress, look to materials such as alloy steel.Withstands extreme temperatures, up to 1500° F and down to -450° F, so it's fit for everything from heat exchangers to liquid nitrogen storage tanks.Harder than aluminum but easier to dent and scratch than alloy steel.May be mildly magnetic. It could interfere with circuit boards and other sensitive electronics. Consider aluminum for a nonmagnetic alternative, but it's not as strong as 316.
If I understand the chart correctly, nickel is more corrosion resistant than stainless steel
From that can we infer a quarter to be 5 times more corrosion resistant than a nickel?

just my bimetallic
Edward
 
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If you are using stainless fasteners in steel or aluminum use this stuff. It's the cats meow for anti seize/anti galling. It prevents stains and funkyness around fasteners in dissimilar metals and allows perfect torquing.

20250131_214421.jpg


20250131_214438.jpg


I heat the screws a bit and butter them up with this stuff. It's dandy. Like a flaky wax. You can find it on the internet.