RWS - Diana 54-56 simple DIY mods

Just a couple of improvements that make these great guns even better.

1) The trigger is abnormally far forward and has a very long first stage. Some will say to bend the resting tab rearward similarly to a Rekord unit. This is not sheet steel, but a cast soft metal, zink? These tabs break off easily. Instead, drill and tap a 4-40 set screw in and you can set the trigger as far back as possible without preventing the safety from engaging. You can set it much farther back if you like but you will no longer have a safety that engages. I also remove one coil from the rear weight spring.

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2) The rear sled has a ball detent that rests in a hole in the rearmost seated position. This makes it difficult to unseat the ball without transferring significant force against the stock. A common fix is to install an o-ring or two so the ball doesn't completely seat. I have also done this in the past and it does work but now I cut and polish a relieved "ramp" into the plate. This allows a very smooth transition of the ball up onto the plate. The result is much less feeling is transferred to the shooter during firing. I also remove one coil from the ball detent spring so there is more thread available for the stock mounting screws. I also replace the stock mounting screws (6mm) with cap head allen bolts. The factory ones have a lead with no threads for the first few mm. These are into a bronze material that is very soft. Getting as many threads as possible to engage is good insurance.

Before:

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Channeled and polished:

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Re-blued:

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3) finally a new Vortek "steel" kit was installed. 

This was the first time I used one of their newer steel kits. This is beautiful. There is an inner delrin guide and a very heavy outer sleeve. The result is absolutely no twang or vibration at all. I will definitely be using more of these in the future. 

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Piston and breach seals were also replaced and the outside of the compression tube was polished. The cocking mechanism and sled were adjusted to my liking and the internal sled forward steel was removed from inside the stock. The final result is an easy to cock 56th with a great cycle and almost no felt movement. The trigger now breaks cleanly right at one pound and velocities are right at 12FPE. Next I will tend to a few dings in the stock, mount a scope and see how it shoots. 

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Thanks, I might do some of deez next time I have the D54 picked apart. I’ve only had her about a week or two. Once the dieseling stopped, the twang shines through, gonna have to throw a drop-in kit up in there. About 2/3 through the first tin of 18.3gr 5.5mm JSB and she’s still got double-digit SD, extreme spread of 40-ish.

I wouldn't let it continue to diesel. I'm sure that's what is causing a high ES. Get it apart and remove the unneeded lubricants. Dieseling should not be a normal part of breaking in a springer. I understand that factory new guns have to be expected to sit on a shelf and need to be protected from rust, but getting them opened up and removing the excess is way better in the long run than burning it off. What is left behind after burning these materials off is no good and much harder to remove than simple degreasing. 

Just 2 cents.
 
I've seen the insides of my own D54 .20 in photos while being converted to .20.

The TO6 trigger I have has been adjusted by the airgunsmith exactly as he has it on his own .20 D54.

It is long in the first stage and then to the very end is a quaint stop or snug and then beyond that if you pull any harder it goes off for the D54 .20 recoilless system like a charm every time. The "take up" in the "first stage" is incredibly undeniably unnecessary in my own mind so I just figure pull out ALL the slack before the shot and find the place where first stage transfers to second stage and sear cut off.

So I understand your mentioning of the trigger on the D54. I've got it on a customized rifle and I understand the TO6 trigger is actually a composite of levers instead of being a true sear or release like done in HW.

But stay with the D54 anytime anywhere and work it. It is a true machine delivering the very best for every shot.

Kindly,

A D54 .20 owner!
 
Nice work Lewis ! What material did you use to polish the compression bore ?

I did not polish the compression bore (inside) just the outside of the compression tube which was done with a series of papers and finally a quick trip to the buffing wheel. Sorry if I gave the wrong impression (now corrected). The inside should not be polished. In order to achieve the best seal you need a fine crosshatch pattern. This can be achieved with a ball hone, or better year with a 3 stone hone, and best on a Sunnen or similar line hone. This one was still essentially new on the inside and mic'ed out to be true and round, so nothing was done to the inside of the compression tube.
 
Nice work Lewis ! What material did you use to polish the compression bore ?

I did not polish the compression bore (inside) just the outside of the compression tube which was done with a series of papers and finally a quick trip to the buffing wheel. Sorry if I gave the wrong impression (now corrected). The inside should not be polished. In order to achieve the best seal you need a fine crosshatch pattern. This can be achieved with a ball hone, or better year with a 3 stone hone, and best on a Sunnen or similar line hone. This one was still essentially new on the inside and mic'ed out to be true and round, so nothing was done to the inside of the compression tube.

Understand ! The honing technique you mention is how it's done on automotive engine piston bores. That would be more work than your going to get benefits from doing so.