Scope Alignment Help Needed

I am sighting in my Benjamin Akela with a 12 power scope and here’s what happens. At 50 yds, I’m right on target, but the 25 yds POI is 1.5 inches to the right. If I adjust the 25 yd POI to be on target, then the 50 yd POI is to the left. Anyone know what’s going on?
Seem like the scope and barrel might be out of parallel? Is that possible? How would I fix it.
Thanks
 
Before we can give you an answer, we need to know what type of scope mounts you are using, the height of scope mount, meaning whether they are low medium or high. Also, is your scope mount two piece or one piece.
The scope mounts are “high” and two piece.
188638BB-9847-4989-960D-A52658C8904B.jpeg
 
As OldSpook indicated, the most common issue is a canted reticle. The next possibility are that the mounts/rings are machined incorrectly, causing the scope tube to be out of alignment with the barrel. The last possibility is that the Picatinny rail is not aligned with the barrel, which would be a warranty issue.

If you have another scope and rings you could try (maybe a friend with a known good scope/ring combo), it would help narrow down the canted reticle/bad rings scenarios.
 
the problem is either youre canting the gun horribly,
-OR-
your crosshairs arent aligned with the bore of your gun.

or both lol

best method ever that ive found is the mirror method,it perfectly aligns the crosshairs with the bore.

get a mirror ,set it up at say 5yds,set your scope to 10 yds (or when its focused in the mirror)

look through the scope at your reflection in the mirror (a steady gun rest helps)

loosen the scope ring screws and rotate the scope till the vertical crosshair intersects the barrel when the crosshairs are centered on the scope objective.

"bam" your crosshairs are now aligned with the bore
grin.gif



then i use a big fishing sinker hanging on a bright colored string to get a vertical line,
move the gun till the vertical crosshair lines up with the string and lock down your scope level,

now everything is lined up and if you miss its your own fault LOL
 
I have found that some guns ARE not parallel; barrel to the rail: and have resolved it by shimming between the rail and the ring
put a .005 shim folded to a > shape and place on the right side of the rear ring, where it connects to the rail
this is for Mr.Gadgets gun. the .005 shim is a guess for a starting point,, the shim must be placed on the non-clamp side of the ring, by looking at his photo

all this is after I have verified the scope to barrel alignment with the mirror method, first.
 
Last edited:
That is another option revo. When I started with airguns I was pumping the speed not knowing any better, and the pellets would spiral bad.

Go out to further ranges and watch what the pellet is doing. If the scope has a flatish base there under the turrets, find yourself a set of playing cards. Now stack the cards until it is a tight fit under the turrets. When you tighten the rings the cards should make scope parallel to the rail. Of course this all depends on if the rail is flat and the scope has a flat base
 
Or...

The retical is rotated in the scope? I am not sure if I am doing this right. I will have to try this again later tomorrow after work. But I thought my scope retical was in line with my scope because I used a special spacer made to fit under the flat part of the scope parallel with the rail. But when I did the mirror method it was off! A lot off! Notice how when the retical is centered with the bore, it is not with the scope bell?

Screenshot_20220614-213927_Gallery.jpg
 
Last edited:
I don’t think I have found one of my guns to be ready for optical center. Even though we are paying, sometimes 1000s on these guns optical center doesn’t get you far. Like in Allen’s post it appears his scope is way off optical center.

I know for me I couldn’t never get perfect scope mount with adjustable rings. To many factors and parts moving independently between the rings and the scope. As I would align the bases flat, moved forward in the rail and torqued, I would end up being off after adjusting the custom elevation after torquing to spec. Scope was mounted using leveling side to side and up down. With gun level use a level on scope and a plum line, scope and hairs are perfectly level with the guns rail. But at bore site and zeroing I was also off (barrel to scope hairs) and have to adjust windage, sometimes considerably. This on $2000 FX guns a lot. The problem is the barrel is not in line with the action or rail. So common unfortunately. It’s something you must accept as if your scope is level this movement just loses you scope travel in one direction (which sucks) but will not change your POI once set.

I moved to one piece rings, lap them to make sure they are not defective, mount to a perfectly level gun to a plum line. Then use a well made bore sight and see where the red don’t is. If it’s not on the plum line with scope optical centered, it’s the gun or barrel not the scope.

As I said, can’t think of one air rifle I have found that had the barrel in-line enough not to have to adjust windage, some better than others. FX due to the barrel change options are the worse sometimes. Even the Leshiy 2 was not great. AGT, RTI, Kalibur a lot of them to some degree. Some better then others.

BUT once the scope is set and crosshairs level and gun level, just accepting the windage loss to one side I found fantastic and consistent accuracy with no POI changes close or far. I alway quickly check the gun is level with a bubble before pulling the trigger.

Also always do the bore sighting and sight in using a scope level led gun (once the scope is set). Then final zero distance with it all the same level. I see guys do all the work to level their scopes and then don’t level their guns when doing the final steps of actual scope to target work.

The starlingassn has a great tool to see if your barrel will line up, but first have your windage centered. See how far off you are. I just yesterday was setting up a wildcat MK2 sniper and the windage was something like 7-10 inches right at 40 yards off optical center. It’s the barrel. Have to accept it. My travel on windage is never more then 2-6 MOA anyway if I do not use hold. Doesn’t usual affect me, but really would matter with power, but those barrel to action always should be good to go for optic center on well made scopes, so it’s usually the rifle manufacturing.

I consider myself pretty well versed in scope mounting but always open to education. If my experience is not “normal” and someone sees something I am doing wrong PLEASE let me know. I am not going to shim a $2000 plus gun, but if my method is off I am all ears. Very open to learning.

 
Last edited:
If he shot the Maverick or a Wildcat (similar construction) long enough, he'd find the biggest "ugly" of all. Those 2 tiny set screws on the left side of the gun that connect the cocking lever to the reloading rod. They slip, and when they do the probe backs out an you are blowing air out the back of the barrel and lose power. I've Loctite'd them, Vibratited and Locktite'd them with the stock set screws and SS cap screws and they still come loose. E Rowe says to Locktite them (in his Wildcat MK3 reassembly video) but when you remove them from a new gun, there is no Locktite. Why is that? This issue has persisted in every iteration of WC and was carried over to the Maverick. Why can't FX fix this obvious design flaw that affects the very operation of the gun? It has a huge negative impact on two otherwise fine airguns.
 
I had thw same problem with my setup. RTI prophet compact, sightron s3 scope, steiner rings. Not cheap stuff. Found out my rings were not lining the scope up straight with the barrel. The whole scope was canted off line with the barrel.
I fliped rings around and the impacts switched to the other side. I had a wheeler scope setup that allows you to see if your rings are in line. The rings were ever so slightly off. Laped the rings and that put the scope back in line with the barrel.

To be off that much with just a scope reticle canted you would notice. Get a wheeler scope ring set that lets you lap and check for alignment and you might find your problem.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mr.Gadgets
It's nice if the scope rings will perfectly center over the receiver, however please note it is not necessary for eliminating cant error. As long as the reticle is clocked to the barrel (as described in starlingassn's post) and you hold the reticle level when shooting, your windage error at all ranges will be zero.

The former eliminates scope cant. The latter eliminates gun cant.
 
It's nice if the scope rings will perfectly center over the receiver, however please note it is not necessary for eliminating cant error. As long as the reticle is clocked to the barrel (as described in starlingassn's post) and you hold the reticle level when shooting, your windage error at all ranges will be zero.

The former eliminates scope cant. The latter eliminates gun cant.


this thread reminds me of ALL the "insert hobby/activity/sport here" guys i see on every forum that wont take advice on anything because ........
..........
..........they've "been doing it this way my whole life" LOL


myself,i LOVE to learn new/better/more efficient/time saving/effective/productive ways to do things.


ive only discovered the mirror method for bore alignment about 3-4 years ago,
and it was probably you that turned me on to it lol
and ill NEVER mount a scope any other way ever again!


prior to that i used trial and error,
and LOTS of air and pellets,
before arriving at the same bus stop that the mirror method drops me off at without firing a shot :)


(p.s. traditional archery guys are really stubborn too lol)


knowledge is power :)
 
To the best of my knowledge, it was scotchmo who introduced us to this method. The remarkable thing is it costs $0 and works better than virtually all of the "professional" scope mounting jigs and fixtures one can buy from a gun shop because they rely on a variety of assumptions about the perfectness of features of the gun and scope that may or may not be true.


I can be pretty hardheaded myself so I'm not going to poke at the other hardheads :)