Scope choice I hate mine

Jump to latest Follow Reply
Ao just means adjustable objective. It just removed parallax error and allows scopes to focus at much closer ranges. If you’re cheek weld is repeatable enough, it’s not needed, unless you’re taking very close up shots frequently. Then you can just set your parallax and leave it. So has become more common as a “side focus”, but it’s still adjusting the same objective as up front. 
 
Upvote 0
SWFA has fixed power scopes with rear focus. I've never used one.

Dedal Stalkers have top focus that I really like. 

But as a right hand shooter side focus is fine.

If you want a fixed parallax scope that isn't so obviously out of focus over the range of distances you shoot then generally the smaller the objective the better. 

Friend of mine has a rim fire scope with 50 yard fixed parallax. Not horrible at 20 yards. I think it's a 28mm objective. 

The LPVOs with 24 mm objectives are pretty forgiving as well but parallax is often fixed around 100 yards. Some can have the front retaining ring removed & have the front objective adjusted to a closer distance but it's not always easy or even possible. 




 
Upvote 0
Your best accuracy will come from adjusting that objective lens to eliminate any parallax flaws. That said, for general shooting you can easily make estimated adjustments for all but the most precise shots. I frequently use estimated settings for a lot of my shots, I simply estimate the distance I plan on shooting at, suvh as around 25 mabey 30 yds or even 35 yds and set the AO at 30, this will be plenty close for most shooting in that range. If I see a longer shot, I just dial in quickly an estimated range, say 50 yds, and it will work for 45-55 yds for general shooting. If a precise shot is required, you do have the option of range finding for the most precise shot. By getting a scope without an AO , you are stuck not being able to precisely range find for that really precise shot. Having over 40 years of airgun experience I can say definetly to go with the AO adj scope, you dont have to use that feature all thevtime but you do have the option when it is needed. Better to have it and not need it, that to not have it then need it. Hope this makes sense to you....good luck
 
Upvote 0
I have had the front and the side AO and i have to say like a few on here, like the side sooo much better. I don't know how much you want to spend but i have a Athlon Talos BTR 4- 14x 44 aplr2 ff ir mil. they are warranty for life. it is a little pricey ($320ish) but, to me it all starts with good glass. I have avenger .25
 
Upvote 0
I have a hawk airmax 4-12x40, and agree it’s a terrible setup. Bad enough it is front adjustment for AO, but add in the fact that it takes two hands to turn the focus ring and it is a complete turd. I do like the reticle okay, but it sits in a drawer. Worst $235 I’ve spent on airgunning. I mean to send it back to Hawke, just hasn’t happened yet. Newby mistake. 
 
Upvote 0
You might ask Hawke if they'll let you pay the difference and upgrade the scope to one that has a side wheel. It won't hurt to ask. It's just sitting in a drawer now. Side wheels also let you estimate the distance to your target. It's not as precise as a range finder, but then you don't have the time to grab the finder, it's gives you a good estimate.
 
Upvote 0
Love this setup, my HW95L .22 with Hawke SF. MOS all day long.

IMG_0384 New Rings Compact.1626579546.jpg

 
Upvote 0
Having to constantly refocus is just a part of hunting at airgun ranges.
Click to expand...



What Chris said....

Sorry, IAfaug, that this comes a bit as a surprise....



🔶 Here are a few things that might help:



🔶 The most need for focusing the scope, or adjusting the parallax is when:

▪ range is close

▪ the scope magnification is large (24x rather than 9x)

▪ the scope objective lens is large (56mm rather than 35mm)

➔ So, you could try to buy a scope that will help with this somewhat. For example, a very clear scope (=expensive) will allow you to use less magnification (an eye operation might, too, at least for me...) — and therefore less need for parallax adjustments. 

Or, a 3-12x30 will need less parallax adjustment than a 3-12x44 scope.



🔶 As mentioned by others, learning and practicing consistent cheek weld will reduce parallax errors to an extend. But a fuzzy scope image does not get clearer with a better cheek weld.... (I know, bummer.)



🔶 If you tell us a bit more about your shooting scenarios, we'll be able to help you more specifically:

▪Minimum and maximum ranges

▪Targets, hunting, or both

▪Power and caliber of your gun

▪FFP or SFP?

▪Do you dial turrets, or holdover?





🔶 I haven't been able to try field target, but there is at least one FT discipline where the shooters cannot change anything on the scope after the competition starts. Ask on the FT forum about this particular discipline — and then ask for scope recommendations that give a fairly sharp scope image without parallax adjustments.

🔸 I do remember one scope that was particularly developed for this type of FT: 

The Optisan CP 3-12x32P

FoV 36-9ft (@100y) | SFP | springer tough | capped 10mil turrets | gridded reticles in mil, calibrated at 10x | 17.2oz | 9.5" short

$330 to 360


Matthias

 
Upvote 0
I'm unclear on what the original question is asking.

Are you looking for a scope that is fixed focus? OR an alternative to having the focus setting on the objective lens?



If it's the the former, set your AO to 100mm and that's basically going to behave the same as 90% of all fixed focus scopes made.

Or, buy a scope that does not allow you to adjust focus. My Nikon is like that and it's a magnificent scope! Sucks at 10 yards though! :)
 
Upvote 0
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom
Back
Home
Forums
Resources
Menu