N/A Scope for HW50?

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SpiralGroove said:
Hey Bear,
I would love to get an Arken scope, but don't they have a minimum focus of 25 Yards?
This is perfect for shooting at 25 yards +, but pretty limiting unless your a long range shooter ..... only.
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the Arken EPL4 is lighter and claims a 10 yd parallax , but is in reality a 12 to 13 yd min
 
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doninva said:
Thanks for all the suggestions, I decided on the Hawke Airmax 3-9x40 AO. Don
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That will be a great scope for that rifle! I love it on mine, let us know what you think. This is mine in Sportsmatch T02C rings, hasnt moved yet. Sorry about the picture, im not very good at it.
IMG_2421.jpg
 
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KWK said:
Did you check out Dvor? $178. And free shipping ends tonight. Many other scopes available. $100 for a 3-9 x 40 Vantage Mildot
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I got the same vantage that I can't kill and bought a second a while ago as back up not long ago when DVOR had them for 80 dollars. A really good scope for the money. I have one on the wife's 22 CZ American and a Vantage 4-12 AO on her 17HMR. We have 2-7 non AO Vantages on three of our deer rifles.
 
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KWK said:
I didn't pass up that $80 deal at Dvor. Picked up one NIB on eBay for $61 and just bought another for $100 free shipping at Dvor. Decent fun scopes for very reasonable $ My magnum guns get Airmax.
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Agreed all but two of my springers have Airmax scopes. The glass is better than the Vantage and I like the reticle a lot. Unfortunately the turrets are hit or miss on the Airmax. They're sometimes mushy and or inaudible.

The Vantage turrets are predictably better. Then again the caps are have way too many threads. Takes seemingly forever to spin them on or off. Luckily in both cases I do the least amount of dialing I can.
 
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Mycapt65 said:
The hw50 shoots well at factory levels of 12 fpe in 177. I've "tuned" several of these guns with PG2-PG4 Vortek kits. One 22 caliber 50 I personally owned made 14 FPE with a now discontinued Vortek PG2 SHO kit. That's clean without dieseling. It was too much and I swapped out the kit with a then PG2 HO kit. It made a very nice 12 FPE. I didn't care for the loopy 600 fps so I sold it to a forum member. I believe it's since dipped to 11 FPE as many Vortek kits do over a long time. Fwiw it's one of two springers that he kept after going to the darkside.

My personal 177 HW50 is my most consistent springer. First shot is always dead on. It's my go to squirrel gun. It started a little over 12 FPE and then it too sank close to 11 FPE.

The 22 I sold had my lowest extreme spread of any springer I've owned. It had an ES of three over ten shots. So I guess I might call it "tuned". Maybe he'll chime in to verify it's current condition.
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I have the pg4 kit in my 22, making 13.5 with ftt..... think I should chop a coil off
 
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camd said:
I have the pg4 kit in my 22, making 13.5 with ftt..... think I should chop a coil off
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If that's a question. No.
Chances are some of that's power is from dieseling. That should subside in a little bit if there's no damage to to the seal or tube. The Vortek spring will also soften a little bit in a few tins.

A 22 Hw50 can be very accurate at 13 fpe. I just did one for someone it was making 13.25 fpe with FTTs and 13.75 with RWS SHPs. It shot five shot groups at 30 yards you could completely cover with a nickel with both pellet types. That was clean power. Meaning no dieseling or twang. I try to build rifles that have no detectable dieseling. Dieseling can have a negative effect on accuracy. I ran over 500 shots through it during testing to ensure it was settled in well. When done this Hw50 also had extreme spreads between 6 and 9 fps on ten shot strings. Great guns. Just too loopy for my poor ranging skills.
 
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Mycapt65 said:
If that's a question. No.
Chances are some of that's power is from dieseling. That should subside in a little bit if there's no damage to to the seal or tube. The Vortek spring will also soften a little bit in a few tins.

A 22 Hw50 can be very accurate at 13 fpe. I just did one for someone it was making 13.25 fpe with FTTs and 13.75 with RWS SHPs. It shot five shot groups at 30 yards you could completely cover with a nickel with both pellet types. That was clean power. Meaning no dieseling or twang. I try to build rifles that have no detectable dieseling. Dieseling can affect a negative effect on accuracy. I ran over 500 shots through it during testing to ensure it was settled in well. When done this Hw50 also had extreme spreads between 6 and 9 fps on ten shot strings. Great guns. Just too loopy for my poor ranging skills. I appreciate your reply, I fund your posts and comments really helpful
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No detectable dieseling I used tbt high content moly on the rebuild with a vortek piston seal. Ive had 2-3 tins of pellets through it now. The extreme spread was 10 fps *low 639 high 649. My thoughts to lowering the power was for more tame shot characteristics as it is a little jumpy and moves off target after firing.
 
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camd said:
No detectable dieseling I used tbt high content moly on the rebuild with a vortek piston seal. Ive had 2-3 tins of pellets through it now. The extreme spread was 10 fps *low 639 high 649. My thoughts to lowering the power was for more tame shot characteristics as it is a little jumpy and moves off target after firing.
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That is a little hot. The vortek spring will soften in time in few thousand rounds. If you don't like the shot cycle or accuracy and you don't need the power by all means cut a coil off it. It's easily done on the PG4 kits.

The gun I just did shot nearly as hot and was a puppy dog to shoot. Probably one of my best tunes. It was deceptively powerful. You'd think by the way it felt that it was lucky to be shooting 10 fpe. Meanwhile the chronograph and holes blowing through the plywood backing board said 13 plus. Smooth and quiet.

Forgive the question as I'm not familiar with you, but are you experienced with springers? Hold can make a huge difference in recoil management.
 
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Mycapt65 said:
That is a little hot. The vortek spring will soften in time in few thousand rounds. If you don't like the shot cycle or accuracy and you don't need the power by all means cut a coil off it. It's easily done on the PG4 kits.

The gun I just did shot nearly as hot and was a puppy dog to shoot. Probably one of my best tunes. It was deceptively powerful. You'd think by the way it felt that it was lucky to be shooting 10 fpe. Meanwhile the chronograph and holes blowing through the plywood backing board said 13 plus. Smooth and quiet.

Forgive the question as I'm not familiar with you, but are you experienced with springers? Hold can make a huge difference in recoil management.
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I've been shooting springers for the last 10 years. Still trying to master the artillery hold. I had a tbt kit in it originally and that was averaing 10.2 but wanted a bit more power so the trajectory wasn't so loopy. I'm in Aus so now power restrictions.
Do you have an idea of how much power will reduce per coil removed?
 
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camd said:
I've been shooting springers for the last 10 years. Still trying to master the artillery hold. I had a tbt kit in it originally and that was averaing 10.2 but wanted a bit more power so the trajectory wasn't so loopy. I'm in Aus so now power restrictions.
Do you have an idea of how much power will reduce per coil removed?
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Every rifle spring is different. It really depends on how oversprung it is to begin with. It could be between 0 and pound and a half. With that pg4 kit I'd guess a little under a pound on the first coil cut.

I just checked my notes. I was wrong earlier about the output of that last 50 I did. It was 12.75 fpe with FTTs and 13.25 with SHPs. Sorry if I mislead you.
 
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