SCOPE LEVELING WITH FLASHLIGHT

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BackStop said:
Apparently, you did not read what was posted in this thread about how to accurately mount a scope and level.

The device, like many before, makes assumptions that the reticle and the base of the scope are perfectly aligned.

No to mention that it is an unnecessary expense to do something that can be done without those assumptions at NO cost.

READ the method posted by starlingassn. It is easy, reliable and accurate. And doesn't cost a thing, except your time.

I have never blocked anyone, but you are making me think about it.

All my best!

Kerry
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Blocking me because of another mentioning a method that has worked very well and can be quick and easy? But one youve not used or like? That's rather sad tbh.

Show me one point where I was critical or rude to you or your methods? I simply offered another tried and true method. However you over reacted and jumped down my throat over suggesting it here.

Yes it is dependent on the flat and crosshairs being aligned. Most quality scopes will have this. However a level also requires the assumption that the crosshairs are aligned with level.

Like a wise person said, what works for one person, may not work for another. Listen to various methods and advice. Learn what works for you and and discard what doesn't. However don't dismiss it simply because it doesn't work as well for you or it's different.

As Patton said, "if everyone is thinking the same, someone isn't thinking." This is why it's helpful listening to various ideas or methods.
 
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Bye Bye!
MysticalDragon said:
Blocking me because of another mentioning a method that has worked very well and can be quick and easy? But one youve not used or like? That's rather sad tbh.

Show me one point where I was critical or rude to you or your methods? I simply offered another tried and true method. However you over reacted and jumped down my throat over suggesting it here.

Yes it is dependent on the flat and crosshairs being aligned. Most quality scopes will have this. However a level also requires the assumption that the crosshairs are aligned with level.

Like a wise person said, what works for one person, may not work for another. Listen to various methods and advice. Learn what works for you and and discard what doesn't. However don't dismiss it simply because it doesn't work as well for you or it's different.

As Patton said, "if everyone is thinking the same, someone isn't thinking." This is why it's helpful listening to various ideas or methods.
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Some people are "teachable", you apparently are not.

Bye Bye!
 
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MysticalDragon said:
I got the fix it sticks jack. With a scope with flats on the bottom, it was easy to line up. I even got a small dovetail to picatinny adapter to use it on my dovetail rifles.
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nope,that wont align your crosshairs to the bore.

but the mirror method as described above will.


all the scope leveling gadgets are snake oil lol
 
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MysticalDragon said:
Look up the fixit jack. They have them at pa and there's many videos on it.

You put your scope into the rings attacked to the rifle (if it has a flat on the bottom of the scope.) Attach the jack to the rail underneath then raise the jack to the scope. It will either rotate the scope, or allow you to rotate it to perfectly level with the rail. Then you tighten the scope, verify its still level with the jack, then remove it.

I mounted 3 scopes so far with this and each were shooting same hole at 25 yards and very accurate groups at longer ranges
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i cant say that device won't get you close.

but take it out to longer distances,
and youll probably see your shots drifting off to one side or the other.

sometimes,
we have to be open to doing things a better way :cool:
 
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starlingassn said:
i cant say that device won't get you close.

but take it out to longer distances,
and youll probably see your shots drifting off to one side or the other.

sometimes,
we have to be open to doing things a better way :cool:
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He still doesn't get it. I like helping folks, but I draw a line where I find people who refuse to learn.

Thanks again for posting "the method" much better than I could.

All my best!

Kerry
 
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MysticalDragon said:
Because I've seen it work and many others see it work to and it's very easy to use. So it's hardly "crap"

I've seen errors using a level method, first hand and others experiences. Sometimes it's difficult to find a good place on the rifle or scope for the levels.

The jack provides another option and method that is easy to use and accurate. Do what works for you. But just because someone uses another effective method doesn't make it "crap"
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fyi,no levels need to be involved in aligning the crosshairs to the bore.

and after aligning,
a scope tube level (rail mounted levels suck because you cant adjust them)
can be used with a plumb line to adjust the level to read level.


levels placed on turrets/flats on the gun dont work properly either.
(reticles can be rotated in the tube and not square to the turrets)

i say an experiment is in order,
maybe you should take the mirror method test.

its really simple if you do as i mentioned above.

if it doesnt look like this then youre already setup to fix it properly..

20230805_120834.jpg
 
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naaa,i have zero patience brother lol

im just very adamant about doing things the right way.

i mean you can eyeball it if you just want to shoot a few groups at a fixed range,
but then switch distances and youll wonder why your shots are drifting off to one side or the other.

i learned the mirror method from "nervoustrigger" who learned it from someone else,
and it is brilliant!

and i try to pass on that knowledge to those who havent discovered it yet.

it really is the best way to mount and level a scope,backed by science :cool:
 
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Backstop sorry nobody was refusing to learn, or even listen for that matter (despite your attitude)

I was just giving another viable alternative to those unable to use a mirror. Or to have in their range bag in case they need to do something with their optic in the field.

Are there other sometimes superior ways of leveling? Of course. I never once discredited those or those that use them. However sometimes it's not an option or someone doesn't need the extreme precision offered by them.
 
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Credit to Scott Hull (@Scotchmo) for introducing us to the mirror approach for aligning the reticle to the bore some years ago. It's one of those rare gunsmithing things where you need no special tools to achieve equal or better results than a purchased jig. And you do so by directly viewing the two things that matter--the reticle and the bore.

Having grown up around hunters and sport shooters, countless times I had seen them using levels to install a scope. So imagine my surprise to learn years later that levels are completely unnecessary to install a scope, and in fact will only yield a properly aligned scope if about a dozen assumptions about the perfectness of the gun and rings and scope happen to be true.

I think the common phrase "leveling a scope" is part of the problem. The only leveling we need to do is after the scope is installed and we are actually shooting. When we are installing the scope, what we are really doing is leveling the scope aligning the scope...or more specifically, aligning the reticle to the bore.
 
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only had the mirror method not work 2 times
1: on a chinese springer that looked like a "tactical assault" had a plastic pic rail held with 2 sheet metal screws into a plastic receiver cover,,, junk gun that found a garbage can due to junk internals that failed to latch the after a little use
2: Diana 34 T01 had a side bent barrel,, I had to bend the barrel back
 
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jarmstrong said:
only had the mirror method not work 2 times
1: on a chinese springer that looked like a "tactical assault" had a plastic pic rail held with 2 sheet metal screws into a plastic receiver cover,,, junk gun that found a garbage can due to junk internals that failed to latch the after a little use
2: Diana 34 T01 had a side bent barrel,, I had to bend the barrel back
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So, actually the mirror method DID work, but reasons that had nothing to do with the mirror method caused the problems?

Sorry, but I had to correct you. You said the mirror method didn't work 2 times, but in fact it did, both times. You just had other problems that had nothing to do with using the mirror method.

Don't confuse people. (smile)

The mirror method is the best way to accurately mount a scope that I know of. And once the scope is mounted properly, using a plumb line is an easy and efficient and accurate way to mount a bubble level on that scope.

The problems you had, had nothing to do with the mirror method of mounting a scope or the plumb line method of mounting a level.

Unless I missed something?

All my best!

Kerry
 
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well, the mirror showed me that I had a problem,,, until I bent the barrel back. and the scope sat canted with the bent barrel,,, an ugly sight
but the problem had to be resolved before I could properly align the scope and barrel.
both were springers, break barrels

the barrel and dovetail/picatinny must be true to each other , we depend on the mfr to do that part,
sorry I caused you some confusion

now if I say rim and face or reverse dial,,, the Trig will know of what I speak,,, alignment was part of I did as a mechanic in a power plant... align elec motors to pumps after we rebuild the pumps,,, back before we got computer diagnosing lasers to do the thinking for us
 
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jarmstrong said:
well, the mirror showed me that I had a problem,,, until I bent the barrel back. and the scope sat canted with the bent barrel,,, an ugly sight
but the problem had to be resolved before I could properly align the scope and barrel.
both were springers, break barrels

the barrel and dovetail/picatinny must be true to each other , we depend on the mfr to do that part,
sorry I caused you some confusion

now if I say rim and face or reverse dial,,, the Trig will know of what I speak,,, alignment was part of I did as a mechanic in a power plant... align elec motors to pumps after we rebuild the pumps,,, back before we got computer diagnosing lasers to do the thinking for us
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Not sure if I follow you... but still sounds like the mirror method worked both times. My Akela has an Athlon Gen1 8-34 ffp scope mounted on a Monstrum adjustable rail that never did seat right. So, if you look at the gun from front or rear, you can see the cant of the scope. However, I know the scope is centered with the bore and the bubble level is set correct using the mirror and plumb line method.

How do I know? I can shoot with precision (without wind) out to ~96 yards.

So, again, sounds like the mirror method worked just fine but you had other problems that really had nothing to do with the mirror method. Correct?

All my best!

Kerry
 
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BackStop said:
He still doesn't get it. I like helping folks, but I draw a line where I find people who refuse to learn.

Thanks again for posting "the method" much better than I could.

All my best!

Kerry
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My suggestion is for people to experiment by trying a number of different methods. Doing this will allow you to double check your methods against other techniques and it’s also a way to learn a few things along the way.
 
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