So i have come across this problem with two different scopes now. my new Nikko sterling arrived today. i mounted it and whent to zero it in. I ended up maxing the vertical turret out completely but my pellet was still dropping about 2 mill dots too low. (18 yards distance). this cannot be right at all. i think my gun may have a defect with the structure or barrel. last time, i solved it by putting a strip of thing cloth under the rear pillar and remounting the scope so it was slightly tilted downward. but over time it ended up sliding back little by little. Any idea why this is happening and any solutions. Thanks Good day
N/A scope problem turrent wont turn anymore!
- Thread starter Hugo11213
- Start date
You honestly NEED TO zero scope at pellet apex.
Pending scopes height above bore, this will fall between @ 25 to 35+ yards.
When INSIDE this established zero range you apply hold over
If you absolutely requires a crosshair zero at closer distances, Get some elevation adjustable rings Such as Sports Match or FX ... or uses a MOA corrected scope rail or MOA corrected one piece mount & ring combo.
Pending scopes height above bore, this will fall between @ 25 to 35+ yards.
When INSIDE this established zero range you apply hold over
If you absolutely requires a crosshair zero at closer distances, Get some elevation adjustable rings Such as Sports Match or FX ... or uses a MOA corrected scope rail or MOA corrected one piece mount & ring combo.
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I understand what your saying however, logically, if I did that then the pellet would be falling even more and I would need even more verticals adjustment (which I don’t have) so wether I’m at 15 or 25 yards I will still need to put something on the back pillar to tilt the scope down a little
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If you're dealing with a break barrel, chances are good that you're dealing with "barrel droop". It's oten times visible with the aid of a straight edge. As Motorhead already mentioned, there are mounts available to compensate for the droop. Although I've never attempted it, bending the barrel isn't as scary as I imagine it would be according to those have done it. I've heard numerous stories of barrels being bent slightly to correct barrel droop.
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IF you're going to shim, try plastic from a milk jug. Won't mar surfaces & should easily make up for that 2 mildot drop. DON'T overtighten the ring that you shim.
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I had just erased that seconds before noticing your post (because I realized I was wrong). Slept late & hadn't had COFFEE yet!
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Been there done thatI had just erased that seconds before noticing your post (because I realized I was wrong). Slept late & hadn't had COFFEE yet!
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You have 2 problems. An alignment problem and a scope slip problem. The scope slip is caused by your solution to the alignment problem.
You need more angle to your scope without having to shim. Shims can slip and cause constant problems. I've used brass shim stock, beer cans, gorilla tape, plastic, rubber sheeting and epoxy bedding to get more angle and all of them work o.k. for a while.They will all slip sooner or later on a spring gun. And you can crimp a scope tube easily using a shim.
Do yourself a favor and buy an angled rail or adjustable mounts and do it right. Get your scope at optical center and zero at 25 yards at the lowest magnification. Then shoot a target at 18 and see where your POI is. You can probably zoom up a little so the first dot under the crosshair hits the target at 18.
You need more angle to your scope without having to shim. Shims can slip and cause constant problems. I've used brass shim stock, beer cans, gorilla tape, plastic, rubber sheeting and epoxy bedding to get more angle and all of them work o.k. for a while.They will all slip sooner or later on a spring gun. And you can crimp a scope tube easily using a shim.
Do yourself a favor and buy an angled rail or adjustable mounts and do it right. Get your scope at optical center and zero at 25 yards at the lowest magnification. Then shoot a target at 18 and see where your POI is. You can probably zoom up a little so the first dot under the crosshair hits the target at 18.
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Greetings Hugo
I have a Sterling on my HW30. It is zeroed at 30 yards and I still have room for more up on it.
I use moa adjustable rings on the 75 yard shooters. With a springer you need rings with stop pins.
If you wind up need to adjust your rings you'll need a set of moa adjustable rings, but most of those don't have pins. I hear that AoA may have some, Sports Match moa adjustable with pins?
Here you go.
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Burris Signature rings with inserts. With the # 20 inserts you can get up to 40 min of elevation depending on the distance between the rings. They will also help with saving your scope from damage.
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DON'T TELL THEM! If done CORRECTLY (with no overtightening or marks on scope) how would they know?
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If it needs warranty work because of damage caused by the shims, that would be a good clue.
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Adjustable rings are the solution. Shims are to risky in my opinion. You risk bowing the scope tube and can lead to parallax adjustment issues.
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That will probably work great.
You can use about any metal shim. An aluminum can, a steel can... Try different things until you get the right height. Cut the shims to go a little less than half way around the scope. When you get it perfect take it all apart and put it back together with a thin coat of lacquer.
It will work. Just keep an eye on it. I put a piece of vinyl bumper sticker on the scope as a reference. You can scratch a mark. If you use hot pink nail polish to glue the shims in there you can see that. The point is as soon as things start slipping fix it before the rings start hammering on the turrets or objective bell.
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How much did you pay for your scope ? Isn't it worth doing the mount correctly using the correct mounting hardware ? OR would you rather take the chance, damage your new scope and need to go through the hassle of repair or buying a new scope ?
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As someone with a tendency toward hand-wringing about doing things that could potentially damage my belongings, I will just say that modestly shimming a scope on a PCP is not among these things.
If we are talking about a hard-recoiling springer, that's a different story...often they need to be tightened right up to the ragged edge of crushing the tube. But on PCPs I've shimmed in the ballpark of 100 scopes, in amounts ranging anywhere from 0.010 - 0.025", and not only have I not damaged a scope, the tubes look and feel no different than a myriad of scopes that were mounted with no shims.
The way I do it is with progressively larger strips cut from a soda can:
Form each strip into a crescent so they lie neatly in the ring. If they want to move around as you're placing the scope, make the last shim a piece of electrical tape.
If we are talking about a hard-recoiling springer, that's a different story...often they need to be tightened right up to the ragged edge of crushing the tube. But on PCPs I've shimmed in the ballpark of 100 scopes, in amounts ranging anywhere from 0.010 - 0.025", and not only have I not damaged a scope, the tubes look and feel no different than a myriad of scopes that were mounted with no shims.
The way I do it is with progressively larger strips cut from a soda can:
Form each strip into a crescent so they lie neatly in the ring. If they want to move around as you're placing the scope, make the last shim a piece of electrical tape.
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As long as both rings maintain the correct angle on the scope. I'm sure they do it is Hawke!
The four inserts will be the front, back, top and bottom.The front top should match the rear bottom and vice versa.
Think of it this way, if you were to raise just the back you would have a pinch point in two locations on the front ring. That would exert all the rings clamp force into two small locations of the front ring.
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