Scope Range estimating

[Duckfish]

Do most of you adjust from far to near? Or near to far?

I am certain it needs to be the done the same way every time. just interested in how some do it.

 

[kellycr97]

Near too far is the way I do it, that way I can see what the mirage is doing before the target.

 

[scotton]

I think the common knowledge is to go far to near, but I go near to far. The reason for this is because the target order is near to far so I find it easier to be consistent if I start every lane at 10 yards and work towards the first target. This also helps if you have two targets and can't tell which one is the closer target.

I think as long as you do it the same way every time, it's fine. The bigger concern is how you do the focus dance. Do you stop turning the wheel as soon as the target is in focus? Or do you keep turning until the target starts to blur, then come back, then go forward, and keep rocking back and forth until you feel like you are in the middle of the "focus range"? I do the later. I used to do the former but it doesn't work as well for me.

 

[chasdicapua]

I do far to near, but just out of habit, no reason. As Duckfish pointed out, the import thing is to do it the same direction every time so that you are seeing that first moment when the pictue becomes clear on the same edge of the range of clarity in your scope. The distance between the two edges of the range of clarity on the scope at longer distances can be (in my experience with my scope) almost 4 yards. 

Chas

 

[DonC]

IMO, the most important improvement in range finding is to have a adjustable pointer/indicator. Burris 8-32 Rimfire/Airgun scope came from the factory with this ability. I own 4 of these scopes and they allow you to calibrate distance for current temperature and conditions..I also have a sidewheel Schmidt and Bender with adjustable pointer from Marestro in UK. Even using stickers for pointers can be used. Just make a pointer mark on the sticker.

 

[OkAirgunner]

I always go from near to far and yes being consistent is critical.

 

[chasdicapua]

Don, I have an adjustable pointer, but I haven't used it because I find that the shift in my scope ranging isn't consistant throughout the 10-55 yard range. I find it ranging say 4 yards higher or lower at 55 yards, but then the shift lessens as the yardage lessens. So if I simply shifted my pointer to compensate at any given range, then the other yardages would be off. Do you find your shift to be the same between 10 and 55 yards?

Chas

 

[Uglyjohn]

Chas I’ve thought the same thing. My SIII is rock solid ay 10 to 40 yds regardless of temp. It’s only at 40 to 55 yds that some temp/range compensation is needed. Uj

 

[thomasair]

Hi Chas....your shift will lessen as your range decreases.....but the distance per yard on the side wheel will also increase as range decrease. If you use the pointer to correct your 50-55....you will be good for the shorter stuff.

In my opinion....the only thing that really matters to a FT shooter is to be very precise on the 50-55y shots. The fudge factor increases a lot at the shorter yardages. If you misrange a 30y target by 4 yards I doubt you will even notice. Misrange a 55 by 4 yards and you have cut your chances of hitting the target very significantly.

Adjustable pointers are an easy way to keep your 50-55 in check over varying temps.

Mike 

 

[Duckfish]

Could you show an example of an adjustable pointer?

I ordered one of these, but in black. Maestro designs.

 

[chasdicapua]

Mike, so use the pointer to compensate for scope shifts as they occur at 50-55 yards and let the rest be, even though it will be off a bit ... Interesting, I give it a try. 

Chas

 

[OkAirgunner]

Uglyjohn

My SIII starts to be off at about 30 yards when the temp gets below 50 degrees.

 

[chasdicapua]

That's where my Slll starts as well. The amount it's off increases as the yardage increases. 

 

[thomasair]

Chas....yes, that’s what I’m saying.

Mike 

 

[thomasair]

Here is some data to show what happens to a full size KZ as you misrange. This is due to the kz being round and hitting lower or higher than ideal.

Range error percentage at 55y

1 yard=2 percent smaller

2yards=7 percent smaller

3yards=17 percent smaller

4yards=33 percent smaller

5yards=64 percent smaller

6yards=100 percent smaller

When shooting 20fpe with a reasonably accurate gun and a good hold....you can click to 44y for any target between 38-48y, and click to 52y for any target between 48-55y and still have a better chance of knocking it down than a 12fpe shooter with a perfect range amd and equally accurate wind estimation. This is based on the drift per mph between the 2 power levels. A full KZ at 55y is 5 mph wide for 20fpe, and 3 mph wide for 12 fpe.

Mike

 

[Exitpupil]

With a scope mounted fairly high as is often the case to clear a large objective or improve head position those 1/4"-3/8" KZ at 10 to 12 yds makes a 1 yd ranging error significant.

 

[thomasair]

Agreed....but a 1 yard difference between the outer diameter of a range finding wheel at 10y is massive. 

Thats why moving the pointer even 1/8” doesn’t matter at the short ranges.

Moving 1/8” at 55 is probably 3-4 yards on a Sightron.

Mike 

 

[chasdicapua]

Got it. Right, the tiny bit one is going to need to move the pointer to compensate for scope shift due to temperature from say 45 and upwards will have basically no effect on say a 10 yard shot because of the huge gap on the wheel between 10 and 11 yards. This will make things much easier. Thanks Mike. 

Chas

 

[Therealld]

Near too far is the way I do it, that way I can see what the mirage is doing before the target.

Though I normally turn the wheel down then up for final focus, I FIRST judge the distance by eye, turn the wheel to the estimated distance (I'm almost always right within a yard or two), then I go back and forth a bit with the pa, coming up finally at the best focus image.

If you don't learn to range by eye somewhat, its a shame, plus you waste time trying to locate the target.