RAW Rapid Sekhmet gauge for HM1000x - Dimensional issue!

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Geneeus

Geneeus

Member
Jun 5, 2024
27
28
Spearfish, South Dakota, USA
Hi,
Just wanted to share my experience with the Sekhmet 28mm gauge and my HM1000x. I know from experience that analog gauges are not as accurate as digital gauges (parallax, internal friction, inertia, hysteresis, etc) so I was pretty excited to get my Sekhmet. I found two issues; one, there was a slight leak. Two, it froze. They provided me with a replacement, which had the updated firmware, and that has solved the freezing issue. However, the new gauge also leaked. I used the o-ring seal under the gauge body as suggested, but I couldn't get it to seal completely.

It turns out that the nipple is too long!!! Upon removing the gauge and inspecting it, I found that the leading edge of the thread had stripped, and there was scratching on the aluminum where the v-block mounts. I did not over-tighten the gauge, so I have to think this is an engineering issue.

I'll communicate this to Sekhmet today, and see what they recommend. Otherwise, I'll just whittle it down some.

Geneeus
 
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Geneeus said:
Hi,
Just wanted to share my experience with the Sekhmet 28mm gauge and my HM1000x. I know from experience that analog gauges are not as accurate as digital gauges (parallax, internal friction, inertia, hysteresis, etc) so I was pretty excited to get my Sekhmet. I found two issues; one, there was a slight leak. Two, it froze. They provided me with a replacement, which had the updated firmware, and that has solved the freezing issue. However, the new gauge also leaked. I used the o-ring seal under the gauge body as suggested, but I couldn't get it to seal completely.

It turns out that the nipple is too long!!! Upon removing the gauge and inspecting it, I found that the leading edge of the thread had stripped, and there was scratching on the aluminum where the v-block mounts. I did not over-tighten the gauge, so I have to think this is an engineering issue.

I'll communicate this to Sekhmet today, and see what they recommend. Otherwise, I'll just whittle it down some.

Geneeus
Click to expand...
I have noticed that the threaded area is shorted on the Sekhmets which means less thread engagement. I have tried to let them know about the short threaded area if that's what you are referring to. I don't think any changes are coming.
But I do know that if you post a picture of one of your airguns somewhere, with one of their gauges installed they will "borrow" it and use it on their website without asking. I still have a few and they work well but I've moved on to the re-chargeable lighted dial ones from Amazon and Aliexpress. They are mostly in the 25mm for lighted and re-chargeable.
 
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Geneeus said:
Hi,
Just wanted to share my experience with the Sekhmet 28mm gauge and my HM1000x. I know from experience that analog gauges are not as accurate as digital gauges (parallax, internal friction, inertia, hysteresis, etc) so I was pretty excited to get my Sekhmet. I found two issues; one, there was a slight leak. Two, it froze. They provided me with a replacement, which had the updated firmware, and that has solved the freezing issue. However, the new gauge also leaked. I used the o-ring seal under the gauge body as suggested, but I couldn't get it to seal completely.

It turns out that the nipple is too long!!! Upon removing the gauge and inspecting it, I found that the leading edge of the thread had stripped, and there was scratching on the aluminum where the v-block mounts. I did not over-tighten the gauge, so I have to think this is an engineering issue.

I'll communicate this to Sekhmet today, and see what they recommend. Otherwise, I'll just whittle it down some.

Geneeus
Click to expand...
Yep, I put my Sekhmet gauges into my lathe and shorten the nipple that threads into the v-block so that it doesn’t bottom out. I only need to use the factory oring and no leaks!
 
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Here are pics of the installed gauge and the one where I shortened the threaded nipple on my lathe. I think I removed about 0.060” so that it didn’t bottom out on the regulator body. I use the factory oring on the nipple to seal it.

IMG_1002.jpeg
IMG_0996.jpeg


I did remove the small burr on the threads shown above after this photo was taken.
 
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Cloud9AG said:
Yep, I put my Sekhmet gauges into my lathe and shorten the nipple that threads into the v-block so that it doesn’t bottom out. I only need to use the factory oring and no leaks!
Click to expand...
You know, when I called and spoke to Nicole Rae several times, she never mentioned that there might be issues. Obviously, if the damn thing bottoms out before the o-ring is fully compressed, you're gonna have a leak. And here's the worst part. The component that the gauge v-block slides onto, which is the regulator, now has scratches on it. So when the v-block is slid onto the regulator, there is the danger of damage to the o-ring. I'll lube it up and slide the assembly together as gently as I can.....

Geneeus
Bramezy said:
I need a visual lol.
Click to expand...
The Sekhmet is 2.5mm (just a shade under .1" longer than the OEM gauge. More than enough to cause scratches on the regulator body, and prevent the gauge from compressing the o-ring.

IMG_0041.JPG


IMG_0047.JPG
 
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Cloud9AG said:
Here are pics of the installed gauge and the one where I shortened the threaded nipple on my lathe. I think I removed about 0.060” so that it didn’t bottom out on the regulator body. I use the factory oring on the nipple to seal it.

View attachment 503389View attachment 503390

I did remove the small burr on the threads shown above after this photo was taken.
Click to expand...
Nice job. Wanna do a few more?
 
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Geneeus said:
You know, when I called and spoke to Nicole Rae several times, she never mentioned that there might be issues. Obviously, if the damn thing bottoms out before the o-ring is fully compressed, you're gonna have a leak. And here's the worst part. The component that the gauge v-block slides onto, which is the regulator, now has scratches on it. So when the v-block is slid onto the regulator, there is the danger of damage to the o-ring. I'll lube it up and slide the assembly together as gently as I can.....

Geneeus

The Sekhmet is 2.5mm (just a shade under .1" longer than the OEM gauge. More than enough to cause scratches on the regulator body, and prevent the gauge from compressing the o-ring.

View attachment 503399

View attachment 503400
Click to expand...
You can polish out those scratches with a fine file and some 400-600 grit sandpaper.
 
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I want to advise other RAW HM1000x owners that Nicole Rae at Sekhmet said there will be a version of the Sekhmet gauge specific to the HM1000x (and other rifles?) that will have a shorter nipple, and be available shortly.
Although I have been somewhat frustrated throughout this process of resolving firmware and engineering issues, I'm very pleased that Sekhmet has responded to each issue with replacements.
 
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Geneeus said:
I want to advise other RAW HM1000x owners that Nicole Rae at Sekhmet said there will be a version of the Sekhmet gauge specific to the HM1000x (and other rifles?) that will have a shorter nipple, and be available shortly.
Although I have been somewhat frustrated throughout this process of resolving firmware and engineering issues, I'm very pleased that Sekhmet has responded to each issue with replacements.
Click to expand...
Thank you for the info as I also have and HMx and EVERY analog guage I have tried is way off but as long as I know how off it is I can live with it...for now....😂👍
 
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Ranchibi said:
Thank you for the info as I also have and HMx and EVERY analog guage I have tried is way off but as long as I know how off it is I can live with it...for now....😂👍
Click to expand...
The only problem with that is that over time the gauge will become more inaccurate due to bumps and/or age. That’s why I have tried to resolve all issues. I really like the product.
 
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