Self healing, POI temporary color changing polymer targets. Wad cutters and hollow points are a no-no though.
https://www.da-targets.com/collections/all
https://www.da-targets.com/collections/all
Self healing targets?
- Thread starter SqrlHntr
- Start date
I found a self healing prairie dog target when out hiking once. For some reason I never used it and then took it with me this past weekend.
Even at low-ish power it made a pleasing smack at 40 yards. I'll definitely being buying more of these. Thank you for the link.
Even at low-ish power it made a pleasing smack at 40 yards. I'll definitely being buying more of these. Thank you for the link.
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Thank you for the mention, SqrlHntr. The forum members lit up our Google Analytics, so I figured I'd come and see what spurred on the interest. While we haven't done any official testing with air rifles, we've had a few customers report back with their experience and I'll try and summarize what we've heard.
In general, you'll get the best results (target movement and color flare) with larger calibers, but any caliber will do as long as you keep the velocity ~800fps+ to make sure you penetrate and not bounce. Our 4" targets are probably best for smaller calibers to get the best movement. For our knockdowns, which are thicker, you'll need more velocity to be sure the projectile fully penetrates. For reference, here is a video where we were shooting a 4" target with subsonic .22lr at about 900fps https://youtu.be/lJ8XQPRdiGg.
For projectiles, we always recommend that you "keep it round or pointy" (no wadcutters, hollow-points, or flat tips as mentioned in the original post). Something the shape of a JSB Diablo Exact Express or Beast should work well. Don't use something like a Predator Metalmag, as they will tear up the target. In general, really aggressive profiles may damage the color changing component, preventing it from returning to the original color, so smoother is better.
Thanks again to everyone for giving us a look.
In general, you'll get the best results (target movement and color flare) with larger calibers, but any caliber will do as long as you keep the velocity ~800fps+ to make sure you penetrate and not bounce. Our 4" targets are probably best for smaller calibers to get the best movement. For our knockdowns, which are thicker, you'll need more velocity to be sure the projectile fully penetrates. For reference, here is a video where we were shooting a 4" target with subsonic .22lr at about 900fps https://youtu.be/lJ8XQPRdiGg.
For projectiles, we always recommend that you "keep it round or pointy" (no wadcutters, hollow-points, or flat tips as mentioned in the original post). Something the shape of a JSB Diablo Exact Express or Beast should work well. Don't use something like a Predator Metalmag, as they will tear up the target. In general, really aggressive profiles may damage the color changing component, preventing it from returning to the original color, so smoother is better.
Thanks again to everyone for giving us a look.
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when it says self healing, does it mean it will give the same resistance to the pellet each time?
when i am stacking pellets in the same hole, it doesn't matter how much foam or duct seal i use in my box, the pellets eventually make a hole and get through.
because it gets hot here, i decided to try the black. i am more interested in the healing part than the visual part.
when i am stacking pellets in the same hole, it doesn't matter how much foam or duct seal i use in my box, the pellets eventually make a hole and get through.
because it gets hot here, i decided to try the black. i am more interested in the healing part than the visual part.
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The material essentially snaps back into place, so you'll get a similar reaction even with many stacked shots. The big variable here is the projectile shape. Having a nice smooth projectile will let it slip through the material without taking any with it. I'll see if I can dig up one of the display targets we take to shows. One of them has over 100 rounds of 9mm in a 1.5" group and there is still material there.
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http://youtu.be/VO7e5lIqxug
Here is the video from the day I shot the targets we took to the Great American Outdoor Show in February. It was obviously below the minimum 60F for the warm weather target in the front and you can see how the stacked rounds add more and more heat to the target, providing the visual feedback. The added heat would correlate to the energy absorbed from the round that would also be causing the target to move.
All that is a long way to say that while there is a limit, I think you'll be pleased with the durability, especially in comparison to any other polymer target on the market.
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Mine arrives tomorrow. Ordered a 4” black for the Texas heat. Should be fun.
Just thinkin’ out loud here, maybe incorporate the knockdown version into a FT target paddle? Might be better than paint.
Just thinkin’ out loud here, maybe incorporate the knockdown version into a FT target paddle? Might be better than paint.
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Thanks SqrlHntr! I received your PM but haven't hit the threshold for PM usage yet to respond. I will be picking up a PCP rifle for R&D, given the interest. Any suggestions on caliber?
As for the FT, I'll start doing some research there. I wasn't even aware that it was a thing, but looks like a lot of fun.
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These are just too dang cool. Here’s what I got on a 4” target from .177 at 880 fps, 10.5 gr AA Diablo Heavy at 21yds. Red dispersed totally after a few min, the white not too long after, leaving little dots of white. Looks like they are healing up too, just slower. Temps are 74 deg, 75 % humidity, breezy. What I like is you can see exact POI. Tiny bit of material pushed through, but I expect thats normal. 5 shots both groups, right group was purposely not stacked. Pellet in pic is a new 177 for reference, not collected after being shot. No idea how much energy it absorbed. Tomorrow it will be on the FT sight-in range and see how it does. Nice thwap when hit too. Larger calibers should be fun too. 
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i got one in black but haven't tried it out yet. just wanted to thank the vendor for answering my question.
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SqrlHntr, thanks for the detailed post. Looking at the pics, there does appear to be some permanent color damage, unfortunately. I would not have expected to see that with a domed pellet. [Engineer hat engaged] Out of curiosity, was the target free to move backwards on impact or resting against a backstop when those shots were taken?
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Doh! Did not think of that…Lemme shoot it again, but this time hanging. It was resting on corrugated sign board, small clamp at the top. Did not think to include that detail or even consider it. Behind the signboard is a 3” gap and then the pellet trap. Maybe this evening, but definitely by tomorrow am i’ll hang it, shoot it again w the same rifle and pellets, and post some more pics. It made it to the FT match but it was not set up, my apologies, I was so focused on running the match I forgot.
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Don't apologize! The hanging guidance is buried deep in the FAQ, so it's on us to make it more prominent. I'm not 100% sure that's the issue, but it would make sense to be a contributor.
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These are just too dang cool. Here’s what I got on a 4” target from .177 at 880 fps, 10.5 gr AA Diablo Heavy at 21yds. Red dispersed totally after a few min, the white not too long after, leaving little dots of white. Looks like they are healing up too, just slower. Temps are 74 deg, 75 % humidity, breezy. What I like is you can see exact POI. Tiny bit of material pushed through, but I expect thats normal. 5 shots both groups, right group was purposely not stacked. Pellet in pic is a new 177 for reference, not collected after being shot. No idea how much energy it absorbed. Tomorrow it will be on the FT sight-in range and see how it does. Nice thwap when hit too. Larger calibers should be fun too.
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Do you think an adhesive will stick to it? Just thinking that I want a smaller aiming point.
Also tempted to attach these to the back of my steel swinging targets, then I get the feedback from hitting the steel but also track misses.
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Just saw the post about the adhesive stickers. I think it will depend a lot on the adhesive. When the target is struck, it stretches around the projectile, so that may unstick the sticker. You may also try a paint pen or something like white-out to add a small point of aim. Obviously, you'd need to touch it up after some hits, but you'd need to replace the sticker in the same manner.
Regarding the steel target, you'll want a gap between the two targets to allow the polymer to flex and also to give the lead fragments a place to go, other than embedding in the polymer.
Regarding the steel target, you'll want a gap between the two targets to allow the polymer to flex and also to give the lead fragments a place to go, other than embedding in the polymer.
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