Semi worthless thread about Taipan accuracy issues.

So I bought a Taipan Long in .22

It shot pretty damn well honestly, but seemed to be somewhat finicky with a flier pretty regularly. And being overly critical, I thought it could do better. As I like to do with any new gun I pulled the barrel to give her a good look over and push a pellet through to feel it out. The last couple CZ barrels I've dealt with had really tight chokes, but were otherwise very nice. That's exactly what I felt with this one, except I noticed the pellet didn't slip right out of the muzzle. More like it hung up and then "popped" out. I've seen this before in barrels that I cut a crown on myself, and the bit didn't cut just right and left a smeared cut/burr.

In my prior experiences with hacking around with different barrels, I knew this was a red flag.

So I turned a pilot to indicate the bore and get the barrel running true in the lathe. I faced off around .100" from the muzzle, and cut a new crown and gave it a quick deburr with some 600 grit lapping compound on a big Qtip.

Then I flipped the barrel around, and added a slightly shallower radius to the leade/breech/entry/whatever, just to ease loading.

Turned out okay I guess considering the equipment:

Crown:
taipan crown2.jpgtaipan crown.jpg

Leade/Inlet/Entrada:
taipan leade.jpg


And here's why this thread is mostly useless.......I didn't take any pics of the barrel or groups beforehand. Facepalm.

BUT!

I did take a pic of a pushed pellet before and after the hackjob. So there's that.

Left is before, right is after.
PXL_20230110_001416449.jpg
PXL_20230110_001346401.jpg


And here's the result in the groups. Barrel was dirty/seasoned and just had the chips blasted out with air and a cotton swab fired through with shop air. Rested the forearm on a cooler, sitting on my butt at 25 yards. 5 shot group:
PXL_20230108_225203828.jpg

PXL_20230108_225149242.jpg


PXL_20230108_225144738.jpg


With a good solid rest, and a cleaned barrel, I think we might have something here! :)

Sitting on the couch bored, thought I'd post this rambling in case you were bored too.
 
I don't understand all of this cool new chamfering work done, then leaving a sharp edge to cut into the pellet.

And...why is the O.D. of the chamfer so...large ? It only needs to be a few thousandths larger than the skirt of the pellet. Then polish, then remove the sharp edge from the inner hard corner.
The hard corner "cuts" into the pellet. It would be better to have the pellet dig into the rifling as it travels down the barrel for a more "even" and accurate fit in the rifling.

Mike
 
I don't understand all of this cool new chamfering work done, then leaving a sharp edge to cut into the pellet.

And...why is the O.D. of the chamfer so...large ? It only needs to be a few thousandths larger than the skirt of the pellet. Then polish, then remove the sharp edge from the inner hard corner.
The hard corner "cuts" into the pellet. It would be better to have the pellet dig into the rifling as it travels down the barrel for a more "even" and accurate fit in the rifling.

Mike
Considering the Taipan in factory form loads the pellet a good 2-3 pellet lengths fully into the bore, I think it's about as dug in as it's going to get before any air even hits it.

The factory chamfer was a little smaller than this, but it had a bit of a smeared burr that you could feel when loading, and I needed to get rid of it. My preferred way would have been to face the barrel off, and make a new one from the get-go. But the way it threads into the breech, I didn't want to risk messing with that. Yeah, I could have just rounded it off with some abrasive or something but I like a more controlled or even approach when I can. Even if it's left sharp as you say.

Right or wrong good or bad, it certainly chambers smoother and shoots better. That's all I'm worried about.
 
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