Seneca Dragon Fly 22

I shot my DFM2 some more today and did find the trigger very good for a modest cost air gun and the open sight also worked very good for my 83 year old eyes. It just takes a long arm to make the pumping work. Once I got use to that pumping which was very easy and not tiring for a good number of shots. As of now I very happy with the rifle. Charles
Niccccce! That's great information!🤗 my lady is pretty petite and I've been thinking about getting one if these. She can barely 10 pump a 760 but I would pump it for her*I want to get a setup for .22 multipump that isn't too much effort to pump. She can do 8 real easy on a 760 so I think 10on the dragon fly would be doable for her and 15 would be OK for me
 
I shot my DFM2 some more today and did find the trigger very good for a modest cost air gun and the open sight also worked very good for my 83 year old eyes. It just takes a long arm to make the pumping work. Once I got use to that pumping which was very easy and not tiring for a good number of shots. As of now I very happy with the rifle. Charles
Yes that is a pretty useable open sight picture for a hunter to be sure. I am working on cataracts at 70 and found them useable enough that I would not have refused to take a 25 yard shot at a squirrel with them. Younger eyes could use them just fine at any reasonable range.
 
Niccccce! That's great information!🤗 my lady is pretty petite and I've been thinking about getting one if these. She can barely 10 pump a 760 but I would pump it for her*I want to get a setup for .22 multipump that isn't too much effort to pump. She can do 8 real easy on a 760 so I think 10on the dragon fly would be doable for her and 15 would be OK for me
If she can do the first stroke she will be able to do 15 because the effort does not change at all. It takes about 17 pounds to put a stroke on the gun every single time.
 
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OS
I use Ballistol oil on every pivot point, at the top of the pump rod joints, lay the rifle with the pump open as far as possible, with the pump handle up, laying across your legs.
I have a needle oiler, long tip, I place 3 drops on each side at the top of the pump rod, where the pump rod and outside of the pressure tube meet, just down from the middle leg of the levers attach, about 2", then place another drop about an inch below that and then another inch down.

With use the pump rod will show rubbing at the top and bottom of it.

On the bottom of the pump rod about an inch apart starting at the foam oil ring/alum ring and going up the pump rod, and then place 3-4 drops on the foam oiler ring.

Then I carefully open the pump handle and just before the middle alum ring
starts to go past the breather hole, I place a couple drops of Silicone oil on the open breathing/air hole and open the pump handle fully, which will cause the silicone oil to be sucked down and around the "O" ring at the pump rod head.

I place 1 small drop at the very back and top of the bolt rod, there is a rubber ball trapped there to control the looseness of the bolt operation.

Then work the pump handle 3-4 time to distribute the oil. If the rifle sets for a couple days, I always open/close a couple time before cocking the bolt, to spread out the oil again.

When I first got my rifle, I could barely open and operate the pump handle,
it was so dry and was the reason it was return, I think.
HTH's
Don
 
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The Good🧚‍♀️, the Bad👺, the Ugly💩... and THE REALITY:unsure:

I got out yesterday to take advantage of very light wind conditions for a little more accuracy testing of my .22 Dragonfly M2. But this time I decided on (more realistic for multi-pump guns) three-shot groups at 50 yards; not only for the sake of better concentrating on each shot, but to reduce wear and tear... on the shooter!

Parcel to seeking the best possible accuracy results, (for the first time) I lubed all pump-pivots with DriSlide moly lube, the pump felt and chamber with pure silicon oil. The lubing did lighten and smooth the stroking effort.

Another attempt to reduce wear and tear on the shooter was reducing the number of strokes per shot from my previous 12, to the more realistic maximum of 11 strokes. However, for sort of a 'control', I decided to shoot the first group with 12 strokes. That group measured a promising .90" center-to-center (top-center below).

The next group, the first of six groups on 11 strokes, proved the tightest of the exercise. It measured a scant .40" c-t-c (top-right below)! When the next group went .60" (top-left), I figured I'd found what reloaders call my "accuracy load".

Alas, the next group was one of the two largest; both at .92" c-t-c. Mind you, since I was hoping to achieve a 1" c-t-c (or better) AVERAGE group size, the two largest groups still fell comfortably within my goal. The other two groups measuring .75" and .51" contributed nicely to a calculated AVERAGE group size (of all seven groups) of .72" center-to center; less than the diameter of a penny, and easily completely covered by a quarter. The two smallest groups can be completely covered by a penny, and the smallest by a dime.

For size reference a dime sits between the .40" and .51" groups, and a quarter sits left of the .90" group (shot on 12 pumps). Suffice to say I am very happy with the accuracy results.

Dfly .72 at 50 copy.jpg


Unfortunately about half-way through the testing the pumping action started progressively getting harder due to an audible scraping feel. No effort to solve the issue with inspections and lubing suspected areas, neither during or after the session, did more than reduce the issue temporarily. In frustration, I set the Dragonfly aside.

At this point I am compelled to repeat my previous statement in this thread- "Make no mistake, it's a Chinese airgun".

And I'll now expound on that statement with this- I've owned several multi-thousand-dollar European-made airguns that exhibited 'character flaws' just as quickly and egregious as the Dragonfly🤬...

And were less accurate! 😱

Happy(?) Shooting Y'all,
R
 
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That's solid data. Thanks for generating and posting it, AGM. You've got you a shooter!

The chinese can make accurate airguns, they just don't bother with quality control as much as the europeans do. (Slave labor aside...) I do think that you rarely get a chinese gun that doesn't need some sort of improvement from the get-go. It took a year and a half of messing around before I was happy with the QB78 while the original QB77 and QB22 were both great from the start.

I feel you on minimizing personal wear. The Sheridan rarely see 8 pumps these days for that very reason.

Cheers,

J~
 
The Good🧚‍♀️, the Bad👺, the Ugly💩... and THE REALITY:unsure:

I got out yesterday to take advantage of very light wind conditions for a little more accuracy testing of my .22 Dragonfly M2. But this time I decided on (more realistic for multi-pump guns) three-shot groups at 50 yards; not only for the sake of better concentrating on each shot, but to reduce wear and tear... on the shooter!

Parcel to seeking the best possible accuracy results, (for the first time) I lubed all pump-pivots with DriSlide moly lube, the pump felt and chamber with pure silicon oil. The lubing did lighten and smooth the stroking effort.

Another attempt to reduce wear and tear on the shooter was reducing the number of strokes per shot from my previous 12, to the more realistic maximum of 11 strokes. However, for sort of a 'control', I decided to shoot the first group with 12 strokes. That group measured a promising .90" center-to-center (top-center below).

The next group, the first of six groups on 11 strokes, proved the tightest of the exercise. It measured a scant .40" c-t-c (top-right below)! When the next group went .60" (top-left), I figured I'd found what reloaders call my "accuracy load".

Alas, the next group was one of the two largest; both at .92" c-t-c. Mind you, since I was hoping to achieve a 1" c-t-c (or better) AVERAGE group size, the two largest groups still fell comfortably within my goal. The other two groups measuring .75" and .51" contributed nicely to a calculated AVERAGE group size (of all seven groups) of .72" center-to center; less than the diameter of a penny, and easily completely covered by a quarter. The two smallest groups can be completely covered by a penny, and the smallest by a dime.

For size reference a dime sits between the .40" and .51" groups, and a quarter sits left of the .90" group (shot on 12 pumps). Suffice to say I am very happy with the accuracy results.

View attachment 356437

Unfortunately about half-way through the testing the pumping action started progressively getting harder due to an audible scraping feel. No effort to solve the issue with inspections and lubing suspected areas, neither during or after the session, did more than reduce the issue temporarily. In frustration, I set the Dragonfly aside.

At this point I am compelled to repeat my previous statement in this thread- "Make no mistake, it's a Chinese airgun".

And I'll now expound on that statement with this- I've owned several multi-thousand-dollar European-made airguns that exhibited 'character flaws' just as quickly and egregious as the Dragonfly🤬...

And were less accurate! 😱

Happy(?) Shooting Y'all,
R
That would be the silicone (tacky) oil in the pump tube. This happened to me twice. For an instant fix without disassembly, put a few drops 10w30 synthetic motor oil in the pump tube & o-ring.

Moly lube or synthetic oil (mobil1) work about the same, I get the lowest effort & smoothest pumping with Mobil1. Check your linkage-to-pump tube screws often too. Keep that silicone oil far away from the Dragonfly.
 
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That would be the silicone (tacky) oil in the pump tube. This happened to me twice. For an instant fix without disassembly, put a few drops 10w30 synthetic motor oil in the pump tube & o-ring.

Moly lube or synthetic oil (mobil1) work about the same, I get the lowest effort & smoothest pumping with Mobil1. Check your linkage-to-pump tube screws often too. Keep that silicone oil far away from the Dragonfly.

Thanks for the tips, HPP. I'd definitely like to avoid returning the gun for replacement, given how well I've got the trigger and accuracy performing.

One question. Reckon a few drops of DriSlide moly in the pump tube would accomplish about the same results as Mobil1? The thin liquid carrying agent in DriSlide would penetrate into the compression-chamber works and silicon oil well, then evaporates off.

Thanks again.
 
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Thanks for the tips, HPP. I'd definitely like to avoid returning the gun for replacement, given how well I've got the trigger and accuracy performing.

One question. Reckon a few drops of DriSlide moly in the pump tube would accomplish about the same results as Mobil1? The thin liquid carrying agent in DriSlide would penetrate into the compression-chamber works and silicon oil well, then evaporates off.

Thanks again.
Ive only used moly grease once in the pump tube, after I disassembled & cleaned. Never tried DriSlide. Last shooting session I mistakenly used silicone oil & after about 20-30 pumps, I could feel that something was wrong. If you dont want to disassemble & clean, a good motor oil will get you shooting after a few pumps.
 
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Ive only used moly grease once in the pump tube, after I disassembled & cleaned. Never tried DriSlide. Last shooting session I mistakenly used silicone oil & after about 20-30 pumps, I could feel that something was wrong. If you dont want to disassemble & clean, a good motor oil will get you shooting after a few pumps.
🤔😅does this apply to all pumpers?🥴I've tried various oils on various pumpers. I'd love to hear of a great solution 🤗🎩🤙
 
A question about mounting a scope on the rifle. The rear sight is in the way of my scope and was wondering how to remove it? I did take out the elevation screw but I don't see how to get to fold over or how to just remove it? Any help would be appreciated? Charles
Charles,
Take out the screw and spring, carefully stand the main sight straight up, then take a wooden block and place on the base of the sight base, tap off towards the front sight, there is a dovetail groove there.. Save the parts to replace if needed. HtH's
 
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