Always kinda exciting to go through the steps for a new rig. I installed a ScopeWerks wheel last night, now comes marking up the wheel and shooting for dope.
Setting up a new rig...
- Thread starter Franklink
- Start date
Be sure to *DO THIS 
Set your ocular focus first ... Tape its position, mark with paint dots etc ....
** For if you adjust ocular AFTER setting up your SF wheel, the markings won't be right
Set your ocular focus first ... Tape its position, mark with paint dots etc ....
** For if you adjust ocular AFTER setting up your SF wheel, the markings won't be right
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Be sure to *DO THIS
Set your ocular focus first ... Tape its position, mark with paint dots etc ....
** For if you adjust ocular AFTER setting up your SF wheel, the markings won't be right
For sure Scott. That was last night when I mounted the wheel.
Found this out the hard way once. I let somebody take a look through the scope and they cranked on the ocular. I sadly didn't have a witness mark and all the distance marks on my wheel didn't match anymore. Getting everything good again was too much work. I have witness marks now.
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You know that's an excellent point. I've heard so many ways of setting your ocular up it gets kind of confusing on what is the best way. Would you mind telling me how you like to do it? It never was a huge deal for me and PRS because we knew the distance and I was just trying to clear up the reticle when I first mounted the scope on the rifle(rimfire) however since I started this journey in Field Target it is very important. I was told in the centerfire world that you put your parallax at infinity and your scope on its highest setting and adjust looking at a blank whatever sky etc. I was told not to focus real hard for too long because your eyes adjust and will correct the blurriness if they can on their own. I was also told to make sure that the Reticle was not only in focus in the center but also on the edges as well. I thought if the center was focused the edge of the reticle crosshair would be in focus as well . That's why I would like some clarification on the best way to do it for Field Target ranges.Be sure to *DO THIS
Set your ocular focus first ... Tape its position, mark with paint dots etc ....
** For if you adjust ocular AFTER setting up your SF wheel, the markings won't be right
Thanks
Jon
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In the FT world & generally with Field guns the Mag ( X ) you will shooting at is a known & as such set optic to that X and then adjust ocular for crisp reticle.
As a Hunter Class FT shooter that is 16X, most of my field guns are set up to match my binoculars view being 8 or 10X and therefor ocular adjusted at that @ X factor.
Primary idea in FT set up is that the POA within the optic ( Cross hair or dot ) needs to be crisp so with the parrilax is moved the actual image as viewed fuzzes out or becomes crisp as the cross hairs & defines @ correct parrilax setting.
Confirming if correct or not done by bobbing your head around a bit within the eye box and noting if retical is stationary or also moving position with your head/ eye position shifts ?
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@Franklink & Motorhead. Always admired you guys that shoot Ft. My question is. How close can you come to duplicating what you are during with a ballistics program like Strelok pro or Chair gun. Thanks in advance guys.
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Been using chair gun for years in Hunter Class set up which is Hold over game and NOT turret clicking.
While program is fixed for default values, they can be changed / manipulated to correspond with ACTUAL trajectory profile data.
Starts with getting Rifle / Pistol set up correctly so view to how held is correct, no scope cant etc ....
Within Chair Gun Enter Scope height, Velocity, Pellet & Weight, type retical into the use parameters.
Find using "Tools" where optimal single zero hold distance is at and go zero the scope to that distance.
Now move up to 10 yards and holding at Crosshair center take a few shots, use retical scaling to read how low shots went, Write this down ! Next do the same at 50 yards shooting at cross hair center and again using retical scale read how far your dropping ... Write it down !
So now you have 3 data points ... Where Zeroed, Drop at 10y and Drop at 50y
* Point to understand .. The DROP measured equates to the Hold Over required as this figure is simply inverted. ( As in 2.3 mil of drop is 2.3 mil of hold over )
Back into chair gun program DOES THE ACTUAL trajectory of what gun does match the Range Card Data ?
If it does not Up close ? .. likely a Scope height measurement error, Tweak the height figure a bit and it should fall in place nicely.
As to the far 50y distance .... if your actual shots DO NOT drop as far as data says, raise the default BC value some and see if you can get data to match actual POI.
If shots are DROPPING further than data says, REDUCE the BC value a bit again seeing where numbers crunch of actual shooting too data card info.
Just a quick basic how too
PS. When you can get actual shots to Range Card data at the extreme ends of the trajectory profile, all the distances and hold numbers in between will be likely closer than you can hold em !!!
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I play with Strelok as I'm working up a gun, but typically dont reference it during a match.
My process is similar to Scotts, but it sounds like I shoot more distances.
I zero @ 30 yards and then shoot evey yard from 10 to 20, sometimes 22 or 23 yards, depends on scope height, but basically shoot every yard til the beginning of the zero. With a 30 yard zero, most .177s shooting 19ish fpe will have a zero from 23ish to 36ish yards. Out past the zero I shoot in 5 yard increments. So that's usually 35, 40, 45, 50, 55.
Of course paying attention to impact points and how variations in holding the gun affect the vertical. For example, moving the sticks fore or aft can alter impact points, usually vertically.
Shooting all the distances is great practice. Getting up to move the targets simulates getting up and down and resetting at each lane during a match. And shooting all the distances gives me an idea of wind hold off for varying wind speeds and directions.
It also teaches me how many shots a particular barrel can take before it needs cleaned. Shooting paper allows a guy to witness the accuracy decay.
As for how close actual matches Strelok.....it's close, but not perfect. Scott mentioned playing with the BC. The scope height and zero distance can also be tinkered with in the programs to try to get actual to match predicted.
All of the above also builds confidence in the gun, pellet, and scope.
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How do you set your wheel up. I usually mark every yard to my zero and then every 2 yards from there to 55. I do this for my tx200 but don't know if it's needed for my pcp at 19.5fpe. I have a sightron FT with the moa-h reticle. I am thinking about just doing it every 5 yards after my zero(30) with it.
Jon
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Yardage marks on wheel are every yard from 10 to 20. Then marks at 22.5, 25, 27.5, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55.
Guys get all bent out of shape about ranging to the yard on the far ones, but the trajectory of 19fpe is not so curved that you need to know if it's 52 or 54 yards. Use your 50 dope for 52 and your 55 dope for 54 and the target will fall.
Wind causes more misses @ 50 and 55 yards then misranging by a couple yards.
From 10 to 20 it's pretty important to be able to accurately discern each yard though.
Guys get all bent out of shape about ranging to the yard on the far ones, but the trajectory of 19fpe is not so curved that you need to know if it's 52 or 54 yards. Use your 50 dope for 52 and your 55 dope for 54 and the target will fall.
Wind causes more misses @ 50 and 55 yards then misranging by a couple yards.
From 10 to 20 it's pretty important to be able to accurately discern each yard though.
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I use Strelok (and Chairgun) as a shortcut when setting up a new scope or testing pellets, but it is not a replacement for real-world shots on paper. Basically I set up my data in Strelok, and then I go shoot. Strelok will say "12 yards is a 1.4 mil hold over" so I'll start at 1.4. If it turns out to be 1.2, I'll adjust my dope chart and move on to the next yardage.
I don't use my phone during a competition because I have enough going on without adding a phone to the mix. I believe it's not allowed to use a phone during European/International FT matches.
Fortunately, my current set up is flat from 22 to 38 yards, so I go every yard from 10 to 20, then every 5 yards to 55. Then I take a highlighter and put a stripe from 22 to 38 yards. That way, I can see at a glance that the target is in my zero range.
I don't use my phone during a competition because I have enough going on without adding a phone to the mix. I believe it's not allowed to use a phone during European/International FT matches.
Fortunately, my current set up is flat from 22 to 38 yards, so I go every yard from 10 to 20, then every 5 yards to 55. Then I take a highlighter and put a stripe from 22 to 38 yards. That way, I can see at a glance that the target is in my zero range.
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