Sheridan Sheridan Blue Streak: Oiling the bolt?

[CGoody]

Hey. New Sheridan Blue Streak owner here. I recently acquired two of them, and one of them is a bit harder for me to cock, and just doesn't feel as smooth.

Dumb question: would it be a bad idea to lube the bolt with some pellgun oil or something on the back end, let it work in and see what that does? Or would that possibly be detrimental in some way?

Another dumb question; is Mac 1 still doing his thing? Seems the website is down, haven't tried calling due to the holidays, but was curious if he was still doing the Lord's work for these things. The one with the not-as-satisfying bolt action was maintained by the previous owner dropping oil in the "oil hole under the pump arm", and that one seems to be noticably less powerful with the same # of pumps. Was thinking of using that as an excuse to send it off to be resealed, drilled for a peep site, and juiced to the gills (erm, air tube?)

 

[Frank in Fairfield]

It is very easy to remove the bolt and clean it up.
You need to only oil the cocking linkages of the Bluestreak.
The oil will then migrate into the intended locations.
Do not put oil in the “hole”.
The rifle should already have the holes (remove the small plate) for the peep sight.
Tim has a YouTube video about lubing the Bluestreak.

 

[CGoody]

It is very easy to remove the bolt and clean it up.
You need to only oil the cocking linkages of the Bluestreak.
The oil will then migrate into the intended locations.
Do not put oil in the “hole”.
The rifle should already have the holes (remove the small plate) for the peep sight.
Tim has a YouTube video about lubing the Bluestreak.

I thought only Blue Streaks post 1988 were already drilled for the peep sight?

 

[Treefrog]

Tim (Mac-1) is still around. He's currently playing catch up because he was in a bad accident a while back. He's setting up a new web site, too.

He always told me to just lube the pivot-points and to let the oil migrate from there.

Cheers,

J~

 

[Bear-of-Grayling]

I always put an occasional drop of a heavy oil on the bolt. Then with my finger work it thoroughly around the entire bolt. I think it’s very important because when cocking the bolt, lateral force is being applied from a steel bolt to a soft brass receiver. Smooths out the cocking effort and reduces the binding, which also reduces wear. An occasional bolt and receiver cleaning is necessary to keep dirt out of the oil. No different than any other bolt action rifle. I’ve held some Sheridan’s with a receiver that was worn terribly from a dragging bolt. Probably won’t effect the shooting but why let it get this loose. I just acquired a Benjamin 392 used and someone wisely changed the bolt handle to a knurled knob. Always pulling directly straight back. It was dry and a drop of oil made all the difference. It would need to be explained to me just how a couple drops of oil on the pivot joints on the muzzle end/arm would migrate to the bolt on the receiver.

 

[.20calguy]

I thought only Blue Streaks post 1988 were already drilled for the peep sight?

Yes the later Crosman versions may have been drilled not the early Sheridan ones.

 

[.20calguy]

Oil, carrying grit has made its way into a few sheridan valves causing leaks that wind up at a repair center for a valve change, some of which could have just been cleaned. I brought one back to life by flushing it with degreasing cleaner and silicone oil, until it successfully held air.
The pump cup usually hardens and needs to be replaced.

 

[Treefrog]

I've followed Tim's advice since about 1990 and my Sheridans still run fine, so I guess he knows what he's talking about. Considering that he had to offer something that would work for everyone, it makes sense.

Cheers,

J~

 

[Revoman]

Knowing that this is an older post (but not too old), I would offer that if you remove the bolt, make certain that you have your hand or a rag/towel wrapped around the removal as there is a very tiny spring opposite of the .125" bolt that must be removed to take the pellet bolt out. It can very easily fly off into the abyss forever.
Also, if the rocker safety (if it has one) sometimes goes out of adjustment if the screws are loose, allowing the tab that stops the trigger from firing, to partially touch the trigger assembly which makes cocking difficult.

Mike

 

[bf1956]

I always put an occasional drop of a heavy oil on the bolt. Then with my finger work it thoroughly around the entire bolt. I think it’s very important because when cocking the bolt, lateral force is being applied from a steel bolt to a soft brass receiver. Smooths out the cocking effort and reduces the binding, which also reduces wear. An occasional bolt and receiver cleaning is necessary to keep dirt out of the oil. No different than any other bolt action rifle. I’ve held some Sheridan’s with a receiver that was worn terribly from a dragging bolt. Probably won’t effect the shooting but why let it get this loose. I just acquired a Benjamin 392 used and someone wisely changed the bolt handle to a knurled knob. Always pulling directly straight back. It was dry and a drop of oil made all the difference. It would need to be explained to me just how a couple drops of oil on the pivot joints on the muzzle end/arm would migrate to the bolt on the receiver.
View attachment 421295

Kind of like waving the Vermuthe over over the Marttini?

 

[bf1956]

Kind of like waving the Vermuthe over over the Marttini?

Vermouth that is...