Sheridan C Series not holding air

I have an older Sheridan C Series (details & picts. below). Despite having lots of “age marks” I consider this a beautiful vintage gun. About 6-8 years ago it used to shoot healthy. Then it was stored away for some years. Now it doesn’t hold air.

Are there any tricks that I can try, to restore it, without opening it?

Maybe I just need to open it and replace seals (there are some repair kits for sale on eBay).

I have researched the web a bit about repair kits and found some repetitive complaints: some seals in the kit won’t fit, and to solve this you have to reuse old parts, or reshape/adapt parts of the kit, or even get extra Orings elsewhere.

Can you please direct me to a good/useful kit?
Any additional parts to get for a successful reseal?
Also, can you please tell me about precautions to take in the disassembly or assembly process?

Your advice is much appreciated.
Thanks!!
Rodrigo

***************

C series 20 cal. Sheridan blue streak. Rocker safety round top. No serial number. Estimated from the end of the 70s or beginning of the 80s.
Someone once told me this is called a “CBW” (the extra W is because it has a Williams peep as a factory option?).
Sorry if the info. is redundant, not an expert here in these pumpers...

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That's a nice one. It looks like someone spent a lot of happy-time with it.

Have you tried cocking it before pumping it up? Sometimes the hammer-spring is strong enough to keep the valve from completely closing on the older ones. Mine does that on occasion. If that doesn't do it, I'd try an alcohol flush. Search the web for it and you'll see how it's done.

You'll need good parts and a valve tool to rebuild it. A search will turn them up. I've never had to do the seals in one, so I can't comment on that.

Luck,

J~
 
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I have an older Sheridan C Series (details & picts. below). Despite having lots of “age marks” I consider this a beautiful vintage gun. About 6-8 years ago it used to shoot healthy. Then it was stored away for some years. Now it doesn’t hold air.

Are there any tricks that I can try, to restore it, without opening it?

Maybe I just need to open it and replace seals (there are some repair kits for sale on eBay).

I have researched the web a bit about repair kits and found some repetitive complaints: some seals in the kit won’t fit, and to solve this you have to reuse old parts, or reshape/adapt parts of the kit, or even get extra Orings elsewhere.

Can you please direct me to a good/useful kit?
Any additional parts to get for a successful reseal?
Also, can you please tell me about precautions to take in the disassembly or assembly process?

Your advice is much appreciated.
Thanks!!
Rodrigo

***************

C series 20 cal. Sheridan blue streak. Rocker safety round top. No serial number. Estimated from the end of the 70s or beginning of the 80s.
Someone once told me this is called a “CBW” (the extra W is because it has a Williams peep as a factory option?).
Sorry if the info. is redundant, not an expert here in these pumpers...

View attachment 362704

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View attachment 362708

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View attachment 362709
you might use neatsfoot oil to rejuvenate the leather or felt seal .
 
That's a nice one. It looks like someone spent a lot of happy-time with it.

Have you tried cocking it before pumping it up? Sometimes the hammer-spring is strong enough to keep the valve from completely closing on the older ones. Mine does that on occasion. If that doesn't do it, I'd try an alcohol flush. Search the web for it and you'll see how it's done.

You'll need good parts and a valve tool to rebuild it. A search will turn them up. I've never had to do the seals in one, so I can't comment on that.

Luck,

J~

I tried pumping with the bolt cocked, but no success.
I will try the alcohol flush.
Thanks Treefrog!!
 
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I have an older Sheridan C Series (details & picts. below). Despite having lots of “age marks” I consider this a beautiful vintage gun. About 6-8 years ago it used to shoot healthy. Then it was stored away for some years. Now it doesn’t hold air.

Are there any tricks that I can try, to restore it, without opening it?

Maybe I just need to open it and replace seals (there are some repair kits for sale on eBay).

I have researched the web a bit about repair kits and found some repetitive complaints: some seals in the kit won’t fit, and to solve this you have to reuse old parts, or reshape/adapt parts of the kit, or even get extra Orings elsewhere.

Can you please direct me to a good/useful kit?
Any additional parts to get for a successful reseal?
Also, can you please tell me about precautions to take in the disassembly or assembly process?

Your advice is much appreciated.
Thanks!!
Rodrigo

***************

C series 20 cal. Sheridan blue streak. Rocker safety round top. No serial number. Estimated from the end of the 70s or beginning of the 80s.
Someone once told me this is called a “CBW” (the extra W is because it has a Williams peep as a factory option?).
Sorry if the info. is redundant, not an expert here in these pumpers...

View attachment 362704

View attachment 362705

View attachment 362708

View attachment 362706

View attachment 362707

View attachment 362709
Beautful gun!
If it hasn't any serial numbers, that would make it late sixties if I remember correctly. They started by putting prodution dates on the breach backwards, then started serial numbers in mid 72.
Baker Airguns has kits, along with Mac1 airguns.
If youre going to do the job youll need the tools from Baker Airguns. There how to videos on YouTube. I've done one so far.
Secondly you can put 90% Isopropyl Alcohol in it and stand it in a corner, and wait a week, to see if it'll pump up enough for testing.
Generally you can get the valve working but the pump plunger always needs a replacement. That could save you trouble of getting the valve out.

 
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That's an early seventies post serial number model. The round-top receiver gives it away. There are no leather seals. Lead seals, though...

Here is a reference I found online. -

Although less costly to produce when compared to the Super and Sporter Grade, the Model C were still well constructed Airguns using quality materials. They utilized walnut stocks, aluminum receiver, bronze barrel and pump tube.

A different valve mechanism was used in the Model C than in the previous Model A and B. It was dubbed the 'Streaks' with the Silver Streak being first with its Nickel finish, followed by Blue Streak in a black oxide finish in 1952. The only difference between the two steaks is the finish. MSRP 19.95 at introduction and was soon selling for $23.95 (1949–50).
Sheridan Products Inc was acquired by its competitor, the Benjamin Air Rifle Company in 1977, thus ending the original line of Sheridan Model C's in 1976. (Benjamin Air Rifle Company continued producing Model C's until 1992 when the company was purchased by competitor Crosman Corporation.

Changes to the design of the Model C were made by both Benjamin and Crosman.) Model F (1975-1990) Total Production: Unknown. Velocity: Approx. 5mm or.20 caliber, single shot, bolt action. Though very similar to the Model C, the Model F is powered via CO2.

With a Walnut stock and rocker-type thumb safety, this airgun is a great collector’s rifle, known for its accuracy. As previously noted, in 1977 Sheridan Products Inc. Was acquired by the Benjamin Air Rifle Co., also ending line of original Sheridan Model F's in 1976. For help in dating your model, find the Serial number on the barrel. Then utilize the Benjamin & Sheridan Product Dates of Manufacture charts found at: Dating a Vintage Sheridan Model C (Streak) 1949 - 1976 (be aware that changes often cannot be pinpointed exactly, so most changes will only be list by year they first appeared) Date stamps on 1964 to 1971 and serial numbers on 1972- 1985 easily pinpoint manufacture dates for these years. This change chronology is most useful for identifying approximate manufacture dates for Model C 'Streaks' produced from 1949 to 1963, the 'Thumb Safety' version of the Model C Streaks.

1949 - First production Silver Streak Introduced. (Sept 1949). Slab sided stock (1949 only). Rear sights are aperture style (1949–1951). Tube stamped 'SHERIDAN PRODUCTS INC.RACINE WIS- on right side (1949 - 1951). Forearm attached with screws (1949 - 1951/52). Knurled windage adjustment for rear sight (1949 - 1952).
Straight end Butt stock (1950 - 1954). Rear sight soldered on to barrel ( 1949 - 1955). High Comb stock (1950 - 1958). Slim trigger guard attached with two screws (1949 - 1959).
Download free sonny j disastro rarity. Forearm is slim style (1949 - 1960). Straight bolt arm (1949 - 1960). Hold-down thumb safety (1949 - 1962). Sculpted front blade sight (1949 - 1963). Grooved receiver (1949 - 1967).
Pump Tube stamped 'SILVER STREAK' on left side. 1950 - One change. Slab sided stock discontinued. 1951 - Two changes.
Patridge rear sight introduced. (introduced late 1951). Hole on right side receiver (allows pin removal on Bolt) (1951–1956) 1952 - Three changes.
Blue Streak model introduced (May 1952). Forearm attached with roll pins. Pump tube now has 'MADE IN USA' stamped on right side after RACINE, WIS. 1953 - One change.
Knurled Windage knobs discontinued 1954 - No changes 1955 - One change. Crescent butt stock replaces straight butt stock.
1956 - Two changes. Rear sight now attached with set screw and two dimples, and is no longer soldered to barrel. (May 1956 - May 1961).
Hole on right side of receiver removed (Mid - Late 1956) 1957 - No changes 1958 - No changes 1959 - One change. Introduce lower comb on Stock. 1960 - Three changes. Trigger guard now wider and attached with Rivet and one screw.
Sheridan blue streak serial numbers age
(Aug 1960). Introduce new stamped lettering on pump tube '5 M/M CAL' now stamped on left side of Tube. Blue Streak models now have 'BLUE STREAK' stamped on the pump tube. 1961 - Three changes.
Introduce larger 'Beaver tail' style Forearm. Change from straight bolt to curved bolt handle with hole on ball-end and pinned to Bolt. (May 1961).
Sheridan Serial Number Identification
Rear Sight now attached with 2 set screws. (June 1961 - May 1971) 1962 - One change. Hand Guard introduced 1963 - One change.
Rocker Safety introduced. (Feb 1963) 1964 - Two changes. Inspection dates now stamped (backwards and alphabetically) on the left side of the receiver. (Jan 1964 - Apr 1972).
Front sight changed to a large forward serrated ramp style 1964 - 1977) 1965 - No changes 1966 - No changes 1967 - One change. Trigger guard now attached by two rivets 1968 - Two change. Grooves removed from the Receiver (now smooth flattop receiver). (Mar 1968 - Feb 1978).
Curved bolt handle now welded to bolt. 1969 - No changes 1970 - No changes 1971 - Two changes. Left-handed version introduced (Jul 1971) ( Approx 400 made). Rear sight now clip-on attachment.
(April 1971) 1972 - Two changes. Stamped Serial numbers introduced ( 000001 - 025650).
(Apr 1972). Hole in bolt handle made shallow (1972–1974) 1973 - No changes. Serial numbers ( 025651 - 060550) 1974 - No changes.
Serial numbers ( 060551 - 100780) 1975 - One change. Serial numbers ( 100780 - 141460). Hole in bolt handle eliminated.
1976 - No changes. Serial numbers ( 141461 - 175840) Last year of the Original Sheridan Products Inc. Produced Streaks, before being purchased by its competitor the Benjamin company. BENJAMIN / SHERIDAN 1977 - Two changes. Serial numbers ( 175841 - 211020) - First year of the Benjamin/Sheridan Streaks. 'C SERIES' now stamped on left side of tube. (Apr 1977).
Barrel now extends over muzzle cap. 1978 - Two changes. Serial numbers ( 211021 - 257460). Introduce short ramp front sight. (Feb 1978).
Round top receiver. (Feb 1978) 1979 - Two changes. Serial numbers ( 257461 - 308340) -.
Introduce 'AIR HOLE DO NOT OIL' stamped on bottom of tube. (Jun 1979).
Double sear trigger introduced. (Sept 1979) 1980 - No changes. Serial numbers ( 308341 - 346820) 1981 - No changes. Serial numbers ( 346821 - 381450) 1982 - No changes. Serial numbers ( 381451 - 401050) 1983 - No changes.
Serial numbers ( 401051 - 417410) 1984 - One change. Serial numbers ( 417411 - 437800). Receiver drilled for Williams Peep Sight. (Jan 1984) 1985 - No changes.

J~
 
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I have an older Sheridan C Series (details & picts. below). Despite having lots of “age marks” I consider this a beautiful vintage gun. About 6-8 years ago it used to shoot healthy. Then it was stored away for some years. Now it doesn’t hold air.

Are there any tricks that I can try, to restore it, without opening it?

Maybe I just need to open it and replace seals (there are some repair kits for sale on eBay).

I have researched the web a bit about repair kits and found some repetitive complaints: some seals in the kit won’t fit, and to solve this you have to reuse old parts, or reshape/adapt parts of the kit, or even get extra Orings elsewhere.

Can you please direct me to a good/useful kit?
Any additional parts to get for a successful reseal?
Also, can you please tell me about precautions to take in the disassembly or assembly process?

Your advice is much appreciated.
Thanks!!
Rodrigo

***************

C series 20 cal. Sheridan blue streak. Rocker safety round top. No serial number. Estimated from the end of the 70s or beginning of the 80s.
Someone once told me this is called a “CBW” (the extra W is because it has a Williams peep as a factory option?).
Sorry if the info. is redundant, not an expert here in these pumpers...

View attachment 362704

View attachment 362705

View attachment 362708

View attachment 362706

View attachment 362707

View attachment 362709
That is a beautiful Sheridan. 👍
Here are two 1972 Sheridan's, one with the backards production date, and the other with a very early 72 serial number.

Screenshot_20230607_144821_Gallery.jpg
 
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That's an early seventies post serial number model. The round-top receiver gives it away. There are no leather seals. Lead seals, though...

Here is a reference I found online. -

Although less costly to produce when compared to the Super and Sporter Grade, the Model C were still well constructed Airguns using quality materials. They utilized walnut stocks, aluminum receiver, bronze barrel and pump tube.

A different valve mechanism was used in the Model C than in the previous Model A and B. It was dubbed the 'Streaks' with the Silver Streak being first with its Nickel finish, followed by Blue Streak in a black oxide finish in 1952. The only difference between the two steaks is the finish. MSRP 19.95 at introduction and was soon selling for $23.95 (1949–50).
Sheridan Products Inc was acquired by its competitor, the Benjamin Air Rifle Company in 1977, thus ending the original line of Sheridan Model C's in 1976. (Benjamin Air Rifle Company continued producing Model C's until 1992 when the company was purchased by competitor Crosman Corporation.

Changes to the design of the Model C were made by both Benjamin and Crosman.) Model F (1975-1990) Total Production: Unknown. Velocity: Approx. 5mm or.20 caliber, single shot, bolt action. Though very similar to the Model C, the Model F is powered via CO2.

With a Walnut stock and rocker-type thumb safety, this airgun is a great collector’s rifle, known for its accuracy. As previously noted, in 1977 Sheridan Products Inc. Was acquired by the Benjamin Air Rifle Co., also ending line of original Sheridan Model F's in 1976. For help in dating your model, find the Serial number on the barrel. Then utilize the Benjamin & Sheridan Product Dates of Manufacture charts found at: Dating a Vintage Sheridan Model C (Streak) 1949 - 1976 (be aware that changes often cannot be pinpointed exactly, so most changes will only be list by year they first appeared) Date stamps on 1964 to 1971 and serial numbers on 1972- 1985 easily pinpoint manufacture dates for these years. This change chronology is most useful for identifying approximate manufacture dates for Model C 'Streaks' produced from 1949 to 1963, the 'Thumb Safety' version of the Model C Streaks.

1949 - First production Silver Streak Introduced. (Sept 1949). Slab sided stock (1949 only). Rear sights are aperture style (1949–1951). Tube stamped 'SHERIDAN PRODUCTS INC.RACINE WIS- on right side (1949 - 1951). Forearm attached with screws (1949 - 1951/52). Knurled windage adjustment for rear sight (1949 - 1952).
Straight end Butt stock (1950 - 1954). Rear sight soldered on to barrel ( 1949 - 1955). High Comb stock (1950 - 1958). Slim trigger guard attached with two screws (1949 - 1959).
Download free sonny j disastro rarity. Forearm is slim style (1949 - 1960). Straight bolt arm (1949 - 1960). Hold-down thumb safety (1949 - 1962). Sculpted front blade sight (1949 - 1963). Grooved receiver (1949 - 1967).
Pump Tube stamped 'SILVER STREAK' on left side. 1950 - One change. Slab sided stock discontinued. 1951 - Two changes.
Patridge rear sight introduced. (introduced late 1951). Hole on right side receiver (allows pin removal on Bolt) (1951–1956) 1952 - Three changes.
Blue Streak model introduced (May 1952). Forearm attached with roll pins. Pump tube now has 'MADE IN USA' stamped on right side after RACINE, WIS. 1953 - One change.
Knurled Windage knobs discontinued 1954 - No changes 1955 - One change. Crescent butt stock replaces straight butt stock.
1956 - Two changes. Rear sight now attached with set screw and two dimples, and is no longer soldered to barrel. (May 1956 - May 1961).
Hole on right side of receiver removed (Mid - Late 1956) 1957 - No changes 1958 - No changes 1959 - One change. Introduce lower comb on Stock. 1960 - Three changes. Trigger guard now wider and attached with Rivet and one screw.
Sheridan blue streak serial numbers age
(Aug 1960). Introduce new stamped lettering on pump tube '5 M/M CAL' now stamped on left side of Tube. Blue Streak models now have 'BLUE STREAK' stamped on the pump tube. 1961 - Three changes.
Introduce larger 'Beaver tail' style Forearm. Change from straight bolt to curved bolt handle with hole on ball-end and pinned to Bolt. (May 1961).
Sheridan Serial Number Identification
Rear Sight now attached with 2 set screws. (June 1961 - May 1971) 1962 - One change. Hand Guard introduced 1963 - One change.
Rocker Safety introduced. (Feb 1963) 1964 - Two changes. Inspection dates now stamped (backwards and alphabetically) on the left side of the receiver. (Jan 1964 - Apr 1972).
Front sight changed to a large forward serrated ramp style 1964 - 1977) 1965 - No changes 1966 - No changes 1967 - One change. Trigger guard now attached by two rivets 1968 - Two change. Grooves removed from the Receiver (now smooth flattop receiver). (Mar 1968 - Feb 1978).
Curved bolt handle now welded to bolt. 1969 - No changes 1970 - No changes 1971 - Two changes. Left-handed version introduced (Jul 1971) ( Approx 400 made). Rear sight now clip-on attachment.
(April 1971) 1972 - Two changes. Stamped Serial numbers introduced ( 000001 - 025650).
(Apr 1972). Hole in bolt handle made shallow (1972–1974) 1973 - No changes. Serial numbers ( 025651 - 060550) 1974 - No changes.
Serial numbers ( 060551 - 100780) 1975 - One change. Serial numbers ( 100780 - 141460). Hole in bolt handle eliminated.
1976 - No changes. Serial numbers ( 141461 - 175840) Last year of the Original Sheridan Products Inc. Produced Streaks, before being purchased by its competitor the Benjamin company. BENJAMIN / SHERIDAN 1977 - Two changes. Serial numbers ( 175841 - 211020) - First year of the Benjamin/Sheridan Streaks. 'C SERIES' now stamped on left side of tube. (Apr 1977).
Barrel now extends over muzzle cap. 1978 - Two changes. Serial numbers ( 211021 - 257460). Introduce short ramp front sight. (Feb 1978).
Round top receiver. (Feb 1978) 1979 - Two changes. Serial numbers ( 257461 - 308340) -.
Introduce 'AIR HOLE DO NOT OIL' stamped on bottom of tube. (Jun 1979).
Double sear trigger introduced. (Sept 1979) 1980 - No changes. Serial numbers ( 308341 - 346820) 1981 - No changes. Serial numbers ( 346821 - 381450) 1982 - No changes. Serial numbers ( 381451 - 401050) 1983 - No changes.
Serial numbers ( 401051 - 417410) 1984 - One change. Serial numbers ( 417411 - 437800). Receiver drilled for Williams Peep Sight. (Jan 1984) 1985 - No changes.

J~
Lol
Saved me from having to go find this!
👍
 
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Beautful gun!
If it hasn't any serial numbers, that would make it late sixties if I remember correctly. They started by putting prodution dates on the breach backwards, then started serial numbers in mid 72.
Baker Airguns has kits, along with Mac1 airguns.
If youre going to do the job youll need the tools from Baker Airguns. There how to videos on YouTube. I've done one so far.
Secondly you can put 90% Isopropyl Alcohol in it and stand it in a corner, and wait a week, to see if it'll pump up enough for testing.
Generally you can get the valve working but the pump plunger always needs a replacement. That could save you trouble of getting the valve out.

Definitely I will give a try to the alcohol flush thing.
Will check kits with Baker and Mac1.
Thank you .20calguy!!
BTW, great accuracy on your video!!
 
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That's an early seventies post serial number model. The round-top receiver gives it away. There are no leather seals. Lead seals, though...

Treefrog:
Is it early 70s or late 70s? ----> Round top receiver. (Feb 1978)
Also a note; mine does not have the text 'AIR HOLE DO NOT OIL' stamped on bottom of tube.
Thanks!!
 
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Treefrog:
Is it early 70s or late 70s? ----> Round top receiver. (Feb 1978)
Also a note; mine does not have the text 'AIR HOLE DO NOT OIL' stamped on bottom of tube.
Thanks!!

No worries. I love these things.

I think so. Search it very closely for a serial number. It looks like some of it's been painted and it may be hidden. That would nail it down for you.

J~
 
If you tackle a rebuild yourself, be very careful threading the valve retaining nut into place. You're pushing against the valve spring which I found makes it tricky to feel if the threads are lined up. I built up the diameter of my valve tool with masking tape to help line things up and still got a brass sliver in the valve which fortunately I was able to get out and the second assembly was successful.
 
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If you tackle a rebuild yourself, be very careful threading the valve retaining nut into place. You're pushing against the valve spring which I found makes it tricky to feel if the threads are lined up. I built up the diameter of my valve tool with masking tape to help line things up and still got a brass sliver in the valve which fortunately I was able to get out and the second assembly was successful.
OK!!
Thanks for the advice John57!!