Shimming a scope???

I agree with the above on just getting adjustable scope rings. I have these on 2 guns and they're great. Can adjust 1mm or so at a time if needed but I have both set up so the rear is higher by one notch so I didn't have to dial far away from mechanical zero on the scope to get close to zero on paper at 25/30 yards.

 
Most of my airguns are shimmed with soda can aluminum. My concern about plastic is that it might compress over time and cause problems. May or may not be true, but I have more trust in metal shims. I don't use $1,000 scopes so I don't have concerns about marring them. Some of my airguns have really needed shimming, others are usually shimmed to keep them as close to optical zero as possible(where they work their best.) Another thing that I like to do is mount the scope rings close together on the rails before attaching the scope. Cheap rings may have a small variance in their height and mounting them beforehand will make that obvious. I have never tried adjustable mounts because of the cost -- too many guns, too small a budget.
 
You may wish to look into this thread....
 
For shims I buy 4"x6" brass sheets at the local hobby shop in 5 thousandths of an inch thickness. I cut out my shim with sharp scissors, snip off the 4 sharp corners, and then I clamp a scope ring around an old junker scope or hardwood dowel with the shim to flatten the curled edges from cutting, and to basically pre-form the shim before using it on the actual scope I'm mounting. I've never had a problem with marring or scratching of the scope tube with this method. If 5 thou isn't enough, just double up.
 
Thanks for all the reply’s guys.

After considering the many options suggested here I agree, adjustable mounts are the answer, but where I live options for those are non existant, so I decided to go with a plastic milk jug.

I chose the plastic because it might be ever so slightly compressable, and my reason for wanting it to compress is as follows…

If you have two flat, level surfaces, I.e. the inside of the rings where the tube will sit, and if they are both perfectly flat and level with each other (in an ideal world) the tube should sit flush and make full contact along both surfaces.
If you raise the height of the back surface by placing a shim onto it, the two surfaces may still each be flat and level, but they will not be the same height anymore. If you now place the scope tube onto the rings, the tube is not going to sit flush or make full contact with either surface. If you shimmed (raised) the back ring, the scope tube should now only be making contact with the two rings on the leading (forward edge) of the ring.

Ideally you want the shim to be triangular in shape, to make contact with and support the full length of the scope tube for the full length of the ring, and ideally you want 4 of these triangles to support the scope tube, top and bottom of each ring.
I chose plastic because I’m hoping it will compress ever so slightly near the forward edge of the rear ring, becomming slightly triangle shaped, but still support the scope tube at the rear where you want it raised.
The scope tube on the front ring, well that dosent get any support 😞 but this is not the ideal solution to the problem, that would be adjustable mounts, shimming is an imperfect solution.

I’m not worried about the plastic compressing further over time. Why would it? IF it is going to compress as per my theory above, it will do it while you are applying pressure to it, I.e. when you are tightening the screws. Once you stop tightening the screws it has no reason, or additional applied pressure to compress it any further.

I probably over think everything, but that’s my 2cents worth 😉
Pete.
 
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