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Boostcreep said:
What kind of oil did you use on this and just wiped on or did you sand it and refinish? Looks good! Not over the top shiny.
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There is a well held opinion that Danish Oil is some kind of varnish and just sits on top and seals the wood. Some is and numerous coats build up and give a very nice effect. That is the one I use. It takes me two days of very hectic applying and polishing to apply 15 coats and gives a very nice finish. I set no store by months of work and deep penetrating oil. this is such a finish. The other day I went to get another bottle and picked up the wrong bottle. I got Liberon Danish Oil by mistake. This Danish Oil is based around Tung oil. I followed the instructions faithfully as I was lost with this new oil. Apply the oil with a brush or cloth it said. wait 10 mins and wipe off excess. So I opted for a brush and liberally brushed it on Returned and wiped off the excess. Left it for five hours and applied again and four coats later that is the result. It may look better after another four coats. Its far easier than the other Danish and it absorbs whilst you are looking at it. Before I hung the stock up there were dull patches on the stock where it had been shiny wet, Guess I have found myself a different Danish Oil. I had previously Sanded the Stock as it had been stained but not finished. On stripping I found a very pale Walnut. I messed about with Walnut, Red Mahogany, and Rosewood as a mix and rubbed it on. To avoid confusion. The stock below is the old Danish.
455571A7-94C4-4E41-B0B7-2B95E819B24F.jpeg
 
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Telephonepete said:
There is a well held opinion that Danish Oil is some kind of varnish and just sits on top and seals the wood. Some is and numerous coats build up and give a very nice effect. That is the one I use. It takes me two days of very hectic applying and polishing to apply 15 coats and gives a very nice finish. I set no store by months of work and deep penetrating oil. this is such a finish. The other day I went to get another bottle and picked up the wrong bottle. I got Liberon Danish Oil by mistake. This Danish Oil is based around Tung oil. I followed the instructions faithfully as I was lost with this new oil. Apply the oil with a brush or cloth it said. wait 10 mins and wipe off excess. So I opted for a brush and liberally brushed it on Returned and wiped off the excess. Left it for five hours and applied again and four coats later that is the result. It may look better after another four coats. Its far easier than the other Danish and it absorbs whilst you are looking at it. Before I hung the stock up there were dull patches on the stock where it had been shiny wet, Guess I have found myself a different Danish Oil. I had previously Sanded the Stock as it had been stained but not finished. On stripping I found a very pale Walnut. I messed about with Walnut, Red Mahogany, and Rosewood as a mix and rubbed it on. To avoid confusion. The stock below is the old Danish. View attachment 345063
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That is some beautiful wood . . . one of my weaknesses.
 
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Telephonepete said:
There is a well held opinion that Danish Oil is some kind of varnish and just sits on top and seals the wood. Some is and numerous coats build up and give a very nice effect. That is the one I use. It takes me two days of very hectic applying and polishing to apply 15 coats and gives a very nice finish. I set no store by months of work and deep penetrating oil. this is such a finish. The other day I went to get another bottle and picked up the wrong bottle. I got Liberon Danish Oil by mistake. This Danish Oil is based around Tung oil. I followed the instructions faithfully as I was lost with this new oil. Apply the oil with a brush or cloth it said. wait 10 mins and wipe off excess. So I opted for a brush and liberally brushed it on Returned and wiped off the excess. Left it for five hours and applied again and four coats later that is the result. It may look better after another four coats. Its far easier than the other Danish and it absorbs whilst you are looking at it. Before I hung the stock up there were dull patches on the stock where it had been shiny wet, Guess I have found myself a different Danish Oil. I had previously Sanded the Stock as it had been stained but not finished. On stripping I found a very pale Walnut. I messed about with Walnut, Red Mahogany, and Rosewood as a mix and rubbed it on. To avoid confusion. The stock below is the old Danish. View attachment 345063
Click to expand...
Looks great!

On a woodworking group I frequent, the question of finishes comes up often, as does the answer "danish oil"
I'm always quick to ask "which Danish Oil" as "Danish oil" really isn't a single thing. It's a concoction, and every brand has a different formula. So anytime it's recomended, it is important to understand which one.
 
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A very kind UK member of this Forum (I am also in the UK) has just added this biathlon extension lever to the existing lever. I would very much like to identify him but I am wary of doing so as he may not like it. It is a lovely job. I thought the welding would mess up the plating on the lever but not so. He also shortened the lever and the access to and handling of the lever is so much better. He would not take any money for the job and even payed the postage and returned the postage money that I enclosed with the lever. So thanks Paul take a forum Bow. You are a Gentleman.:)
682FC3A8-D31D-4E05-AAB6-2235614E8EFC.jpeg
 
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Telephonepete said:
A very kind UK member of this Forum (I am also in the UK) has just added this biathlon extension lever to the existing lever. I would very much like to identify him but I am wary of doing so as he may not like it. It is a lovely job. I thought the welding would mess up the plating on the lever but not so. He also shortened the lever and the access to and handling of the lever is so much better. He would not take any money for the job and even payed the postage and returned the postage money that I enclosed with the lever. So thanks Paul take a forum Bow. You are a Gentleman.:) View attachment 355617
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Wow, really nice of him
 
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It is a 25. I size my MPMolds 44.5 hp to .251 for the .250 barrel. The TJ barrel is the 25 auto barrel with 1-14 twist.

I assume the extra 10 inches may get close to super sonnic, however I will tune it for 100 FPE. 100 FPE would be 60 fps more than I get now with the 18 inch barrel.

I am sure I could reach higher FPE with a heavier slug, but I want to use the magazine and both my MPMolds, the 44.5 (46-47 grains with hp pins removed,) grain mold and the 8 cavity which is a round nose boat tail that mold popular with the Huber shooters do feed through the magazine.

Troy Hammer ported the Bighorn to .24 and shortened the hammer and drilled it out to accept a Benjamin Bulldog spring.

Regards,

Roachcreek
 
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Roachcreek said:
It is a 25. I size my MPMolds 44.5 hp to .251 for the .250 barrel. The TJ barrel is the 25 auto barrel with 1-14 twist.

I assume the extra 10 inches may get close to super sonnic, however I will tune it for 100 FPE. 100 FPE would be 60 fps more than I get now with the 18 inch barrel.

I am sure I could reach higher FPE with a heavier slug, but I want to use the magazine and both my MPMolds, the 44.5 (46-47 grains with hp pins removed,) grain mold and the 8 cavity which is a round nose boat tail that mold popular with the Huber shooters do feed through the magazine.

Troy Hammer ported the Bighorn to .24 and shortened the hammer and drilled it out to accept a Benjamin Bulldog spring.

Regards,

Roachcreek
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That is what i thought it was when talking about the tj barrel. He does a great job with those.
 
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